This is kind of an old story but I thought to note down my experience.
We wanted to get an experience of these small waterfalls in Bulathkohupitiya and Yatiyanthota area after rainy season. Ashan has been there before with Harinda and Sri. That report was our guide.
I met Anupama (who came by bike from Kurunegala) at Awissawella and we headed towards Yatiyanthota via Awissawella-Hatton (A-7) road. Then we drove along Yatiyanthota-See forth road.
Following were the order of cascades we visited For 20km drive)

1. Wee Oya falls 1 and 2 and climbing up to top of the falls
2. Malalpola Falls
3. Kithul Falls
4. Punugala Falls/Anda dola cascade
5. Gorak Falls
6. Olu Falls
7. ? Samanala Falls

Approximate positions of waterfalls in Yatiyanthota-See forth road – Click Image to Enlarge

Scenic road through rubber estates

Wee Oya Falls 1 and 2 (වී ඔය ඇල්ල 1 සහ 2)

It is a twin waterfall (call Wee Oya Falls 1 & 2) about 20m of height. Wee oya Falls can be seen at main road.

Wee Oya Falls -1(left) and 2

Wee oya falls-2

There is a close approach to both falls. We were able to climb up to middle of Wee oya falls-2.

Closer view of Wee oya falls-2 and it can be climbed up to the level shown by white arrow.

Wee oya falls-2

Wee oya falls-2

Wee oya falls-1 also can be climbed to a certain extent parallel to the water stream (in it’s right hand side).

Most lower part of Wee oya falls-1.Can go up in it’s right side

View of wee oya falls-1 when we go further up

Malalpola Falls (මලල්පොල ඇල්ල)

This 4m tall cascade will come across just before Malalpola junction in right hand side of the road. Though it was following rain, it had only little amount of water.

Malalpola Falls

Malalpola Falls

Kithul Falls(කිතුල් ඇල්ල)

This 13m tall waterfall will come across at Malalpola. This is also a road side cascade with low water flow now. There were a lot of Kithul trees-Palmyra trees around the waterfall in old days to give the name “Kithul Falls”.

Kithul Falls

Kithul Falls

We passed Malalpola and reached the Punugala Bridge where Andadola flows.

Punugala Falls (පුනුගල ඇල්ල)/Andadola Falls (ආදා දොළ)

This waterfall has three parts but only bottom part can be seen at the bridge. We climbed the waterfall in it’s left side and viewed other parts of the waterfall.

Punugala Bridge

Third part of Anda Dola falls-The part you can see from the bridge

Second part of the water fall

Second part of the waterfall

When you walk parallel to the water stream

Another part of the cascade

Third part of the waterfall

Closer view of third part of the waterfall

Gorok Falls (ගොරොක් ඇල්ල)

This 23m tall waterfall can be seen on left hand side at Gangasirigama (ගගසිරිගම) area. You have to go through Denawaka waththa (දෙනවක වත්ත) village to reach the waterfall. We didn’t attempt to reach there.

Gorok Falls

Gorok Falls

Olu Falls (ඕලු ඇල්ල)

This is the massive out of all. It is the 5th highest waterfall (127m) of Sri Lanka and tallest one of Kegalle District. Then it is the tallest waterfall formed by Kelani River.

Olu Falls is made by four steps. There is a wooden bridge over Olu falls on which Yatiyanthota-See forth road goes. It is one of the oldest wooden bridges of the country.

Information about the wooden bridge – Click Image to Enlarge

Olu Ella with it’s parts

Middle part of Olu falls

Wide angle of Olu falls

Olu Ella in monochrome

Latter part of Olu Ella

Warning

After viewing of Olu Falls we proceed further towards See forth and passed an iron bridge in another 2-3kms. We came across another significant waterfall just above the bridge where a mini hydro power station also situated. This might be the Samanala Falls (සමනළ ඇල්ල) described in waterfall at Berannawa (බෙරන්නාව) area but it’s height is more than 4m.

Bridge

Mini hydro power station

Waterfall-About 10-15m tall. ? Samanala Falls

We turned back here and drove towards Yatiyanthota to join with Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road.

Waterfalls come across in Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road

8. Puna Hela falls

9. Rikilla Falls

10. Nalagana Falls

11.Rukmal Falls

12. Diyagirena/Diyangiri/Dewagiri Falls

13. Welanda Falls

Approximate positions of waterfalls in Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road – Click Image to Enlarge

Puna Hela falls (පූනාහෙල ඇල්ල)

15m tall and 6m wide this waterfall will come across in Ruwanwella-Bulathkohupitiya (actually not in Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road) road at Puna Hela area. It’s base can be reached.

Distance view of Puna Hela falls

Puna Hela Falls-Closer view

Puna Hela Falls

Then we reached Bulathkohupitiya and turned to Dedugala road. After about 5km drive we came across Rikilla Falls.

Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road

Rikilla Falls (රිකිල්ල ඇල්ල)

This 30m tall waterfall will flow to Kelani River through Ritigaha-Oya.

Name board and when it is full with water – Click Image to Enlarge

Rikilla Falls

Rikilla Falls

Nalagana Falls (නළගන ඇල්ල)

This waterfall will find in about 6km drive along Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road at Kalupahana estate (කලුපහන වත්ත). It flows in two steps and total height is about 40m. It was called as Ritigaha Oya falls (රිටිගහ ඔය ඇල්ල) and Ritigaha Falls (රිටිගහ ඇල්ල) in old days and currently named as Nalagana Falls.

Nalagana Falls – Click Image to Enlarge

Nalagana Falls

Nalagana Falls

Nalagana Falls upper part

Nalagana Falls – lower part and base pool

? Ritigaha Waharaka Falls-2

Rukmal Falls (රුක්මල් ඇල්ල)

Another road side cascade at Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road found in 13km drive at Waharaka (වහරක). It has 10m height.

Rukmal Falls

Rukmal Falls

Rukmal Falls

We have reached Dedugala and drove towards Ihala Palanpitiya to view Diyagirena Falls.

Diyagirena/Diyangiri/Dewagiri Falls

Diyagirena (දිය ඇගිරෙන) falls also called in Diyangiri (දියoගිරි) and Dewagiri (දේවගිරි) falls. It is about 90m in height and flows in two steps. You have to go down through a tea estate to view the waterfall.

We didn’t try to reach the base as there was a drizzling.

Tea estate- In it’s right side you have to go down

Diyagirena Falls

Diyagirena Falls

Welanda Falls (වෙළද ඇල්ල)

We caught this unfamiliar waterfall in our way back to Bulathkohupitiya. It is situated in Thumbage (තුම්බාගේ) area (5km in Bulathkohupitiya-Dedugala road). You have to go through Thumbage temple premises and cross the bridge. Then follow the foot pathway and cross a water stream to reach this wide waterfall.

There is a nice flat rock area in front of this waterfall. It is 37m in height. Few Muslim traders have bathed here frequently in old days. Therefore it is called Welanda (trade) Ella.

Welanda Ella

Welanda Ella-Note the flat rock area in front of the cascade.

Welanda Ella

It ended the successful waterfall hunting and we followed the route to Kegalle town via Dadigama.

*We couldn’t find the waterfall called Bandura Fall (බාදුරා ඇල්ල) and we missed Dummala falls (දුම්මල ඇල්ල) due to lack of time.

Thanks for reading

Matale district is blessed with number of beautiful waterfalls. Waterfalls in Bambaralla and Riverstone are most popular. Following waterfalls are situated closer to Matale town, still have got less attention.

1. Watagoda Falls 1& 2
2. Kopi Ella
3. Opalgala cascades
4. Kumbaloluwa Ella

Watagoda Falls 1 & 2

Directions: Matale->Hulangamuwa->Watagoda

These two waterfalls are situated closer to Watagoda Kalagiri RMW (වටගොඩ කාලගිරි රජමහා විහාරය).There is a small foot pathway starting behind the temple to waterfalls. Soon after, this foot pathway gets disappear and you have to creep through mana bushes. But it is easy to find the directions by sound of the waterfall.

There are two waterfalls situated fairly parallel to each other but separated by a rock. Therefore I like to number them as Watagoda falls 1 & 2 though waterfall book mentions only one waterfall.

Waterfall is fed by Nonakanuwa oya (නෝනා කණුව ඔය) and later it joins with Amban Ganga (අඹන් ගග)..

My friend is showing the direction. If you follow the steps, you can reach old temple

No foot pathway here. Have to creep

First waterfall we met… Around 10-15m height. Watagoda Falls 1.

Watagoda Falls-1. Main waterfall is situated in left side of this waterfall. You can reach there from here

Watagoda Falls-2. It flows in few steps. Total height is 18m

Watagoda Falls-2.

Lower part

Middle part

Upper part

On top of the waterfall

Watagoda Kala Giri cave temple

This cave temple belongs to Gampola era and built by Parakramabahu V (පස්වෙනි පරක්‍රමබාහු රජතුමා). You can see the cave temple and scattered rock carvings here. Sapugasthanna stone inscription (සපුගස්තෑන්නේ සෙල් ලිපිය) was situated closer to this temple and now it can’t be seen. (Buried under paddy fields)

Scattered ruins were made in mid of 20^th century according to Polonnaruwa tradition. But it was not fixed yet.

Entrance

Cave temple

Black rock-“Kala Giri” කාල ගිරි

Cave temple

Moon stone

Stone carvings

Stone carvings

Belongs to Gampola Era

Ancient wooden door

Wooden Buddha statue

Kopi Falls (කෝපි ඇල්ල)

This waterfall can be reached in two directions. The Waterfall book gives the direction from 6^th mile post.

Matale->6^th mile post->Kopi Falls (There is only one bus operated from Matale-CTB stand to 6^th mile post. Otherwise you have to take the bus to Owilikanda (ඕවිලිකන්ද) /Ankumbura (අoකුඹුර) and then get a three wheel from there to 6^th mile post-Rs 150)

OR

Walking up from Watagoda RMW is the easiest approach here. But this is a complete ascend about 1.5-2km.

If you walking from 6^th mile post side you will come across a lot of coffee grown section which caused the name called Kopi Ella. There is a concrete bridge connect the road from Watagoda side and 6^th mile post side, in front of that Kopi falls flow

Kopi Falls

Kopi Falls

After visiting two waterfalls and one temple, we made our return journey to Matale and stopped at Macdowall fort for a while.

Macdowall Fort (මැක්ඩොවෙල් බලකොටුව)

This fort was built by British people in 1803 and named after Major General Hay Macdowall-6^th Commander of British troops in Ceylon. During Matale Rebellion on 28^th July 1848 the fort came under the siege by Sinhalese, but the British forces successfully repulsed the attack. Nine rebellions were executed and buried within Fort.

Today this fort premises is used as the cemetery of Matale. Only the ramparts of the fort and tomb of buried rebellions can be seen there.

Archeology board at Matale-Kandy road via Kumbiyangoda

Ramparts of the fort

Tombs of buried rebellions

Weera Puran Appu archeological site

This is the place where Weera Puran Appu (වීර පුරන් අප්පු) was captured by English army following Matale Rebellion. It is believed this cave was used by Weera Puran Appu to hide. But still this site has not been researched.

It is situated in Matale-Kandy road (Warakamura road) in about 1-2km from Matale side. In left hand side there is a by road called Weera Puran Appu Mawatha (Next to Hindu Kovil).

Reserved area for archeological site

Rocky area where cave is situated

Cave	Inside the cave

When you walk about 50m meters towards Kandy along the main road, you will come across the monument to commemorate where Matale Rebellion was started. I couldn’t get a photo of it.

Another monument is situated in Matale town to commemorate Matale Rebellion.

The monument to commemorate Matale Rebellion.

Few words about Matale Rebellion (Rebellion of 1848)

Matale rebellion was declared on 26^th July 1848 at Dambulla cave temple. Gongalegoda Banda (ගොoගාලේගොඩ බණ්ඩා), Weera Puran Appu (වීර පුරන් අප්පු) and Kudapola Thero (කුඩාපොල හිමි) were leaders of the rebellion against British rulers. But it was not successful and easily controlled by British government within few days.

Later Gongalegoda Banda was sent to Malacca and Weera Puran Appu was shot dead by British army after capturing him.

Aluwihare Temple and Seru Gala(සේරු ගල)

Aluwihare temple is the hall mark of Matale where writing of the Thripitaka (ත්‍රිපිටකය) in Pali occurred during King Walagamba period (වළගම්බා රජතුමා) (1^st century BC). But history of Aluwihare goes back to King Dewanampiyathissa (දේවානම්පියතිස්ස රජතුමා) who built a pagoda and planted a Bo tree.

Monk Buddhagosha (බුද්ධ ඝෝශ හිමි) has visited at Aluwihare in 5^th century A.C.

Seru Gala is situated behind Aluwihare temple. You can walk there from Aluwihare temple (1km) or can drive up to certain extent. Serugala provides a good surrounding view. It has taken 2 years (2008-2010) to finish this Buddha statue on Serugala. This Buddha statue was made in protection posture.

Aluwihare Temple

Some information

Main cave temple

From main cave temple to rest of the temple

Buddhagosha cave

Buddha statue at Serugala

Protection posture of Lord Buddha

Serugala Buddha statue

At foot end

View of Aluwihare temple from Serugala

View of Arangala from Serugala.

View of Matale

View of Knuckles range from Serugala

Wilshire Mountain

Had a day

Opalgala cascades (ඕපල්ගල ඇලි)

Directions: Matale->Naula->Opalgala

Opalgala oya forms two beautiful cascades when it flows at Opalgala village. Opalgala is situated about 12km from Naula. First you have to reach Opalgala oya and then go down with the stream to view two waterfalls.

Where we got down from bus

Opalgala Oya

Surrounding view

Opalgala cascade-1. Have to get down in it’s left side

Opalgala cascade-1

Front view of Opalgala cascade-1

Front view of Opalgala cascade-1.

Then we walked further down in right hand side and reached Opalgala cascade-2.

Opalgala cascade-2

Opalgala cascade-2

View of Arangala on our way back

Amban Ganga

Kumbaloluwa Falls (කුඹල් ඔලුව ඇල්ල)

This 14m tall waterfall is situated at Kumbaloluwa village. You have to get down at last bus stop and walk another 500m to reach the waterfall. Gammaduwa Oya (ගම්මඩුව ඔය)  forms this waterfall.

Kumbaloluwa Falls-front view

Kumbaloluwa Falls-front view

Kumbaloluwa Falls-side view

Kumbaloluwa Falls-on top

Cascades of Matale District

1. Waterfalls at Waththegama-Bambaralla road (some of them belong to Matale district) – (Refer report) Thaliya Watuna Falls, ?Kosgama Falls, Lebanon Estate Falls-1, Lebanon Estate Falls-2, Sari Ella and Jodu Ella

2. Waterfalls at Matale-Illukkumbura-Pallegama road- (Refer report) Bambarakiri Ella, Pitawala Pathana Falls-1, Pitawala Pathana Falls-2, Raththinda Cascade, Wadda Pani Ella, Bambarungahana Ella and Wambatuhena Falls, Sera Ella

3. Waterfalls in Elkaduwa area-(Refer report) Ihala Hunnas Falls, Hunnas Falls, Ashburnham Estate Waterfall, Edanwala Falls, Halkandura Falls

4. Other waterfalls- (Refer this report) Watagoda Falls 1&2, Kopi Ella, Opalgala Falls, Kumbaloluwa Falls, Yatawaththa Biso Ella (Refer report)

Still I couldn’t find: Dumbara Falls, Nandawati Ella, and Balakaduwa Falls and there may be more.

Thanks for reading

As there was a long week end and (earlier months we were mostly abroad), we decided to explore the vicinities of Ranapura. We like many have been passing the town many times but not seen its historical and other important places.

With my wife and son and daughter joining us with her husband and two kids we started off towards Ratnapura on 30July afternoon after lunch. We booked the Deer Park inn close to town to stay the night over.

The next day was to see the important placed of Ranrapura town.

Near the Police station and the Gem and Jewelry Authority there is the Dutch Fort mostly unnoticed by many passing town.

Ratnapura Dutch Fort – The entrance to the Fort facing town

Click Image to Enlarge

The Portuguese first landed in Sri Lanka in 1505 through the Galle Port. Later the Portuguese army came through Arandara and Ruwanwella and captured Ratnapura. During the Portuguese occupation of Ratnapura, they demolished the ancient Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya and the Temple and built a Fort and a church called St. Salvador on this place.

Later the King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe of Kandyan Kingdom re captured the Ratnapura and, destroyed the church and the Ratnapura fort and built a temple on the site (now the Maha Saman Devalaya)..

The Dutch Landed in Sri Lanka 1655 and took over all the areas controlled by the Portuguese by 1658. The Dutch initially used the Fort Built by the Portuguese but later built a new fort on a hillock in the middle of the Ratnapura Town.

It is said that the design of this fort was similar to the Kalutara Fort with two Bastions. The fort was able to house 40 soldiers and provisions.

The fort was also used by the Dutch to house the administrative offices and storage for goods which were to be transported to ships. The fort housed the governor’s office and residence, court building, a hospital, a chapel and housing for other officials in addition to the barracks of the soldiers. The goods collected from the region was collected at the fort and then carried in boats on the Kalu Ganga River to Kalurara.

The highest point on this hillock is called Balum Gala (watch rock). It is said that this point was used as a watch tower during this time.

This Fort and 10 building has been gazette as an archeological monument in 2002 and 2005.  A 400 meter area around this fort has been gazetted as a protective buffer zone in 2005.  But unfortunately this has been ignored by the government officials and parts of the protected buildings have been demolished and renovated without any consideration

Currently the oldest building inside the fort is the Police Station now the DIG office which was started in 1st January 1864. The buildings inside the fort were used as the Kachcheri till it shifted to the current place on the new road Sarath Muthetuwagama road.

The museum and office of the Gem and Jewelry Authority is too housed on an old building whist a new two story been built alongside.

The side Rampart walls

The entrance seen from the inside of the fort

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The museum and office of the Gem and Jewelry Authority was closed that day but few shops had exhibits worth the visit. Ranapura is famous for Gems

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Next was to visit the Ratnapura Museum housed in the Ehelepola Walauwa

Click Image to Enlarge

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Ehelapola Wijesundara Wickremasinghe Chandrasekara Amarakoon Wasala Ranamuka Mudiyanse (Sinhalese: ඇහැලෙපොළ මහ නිලමේ; 1773 – 1829) known as Ehelapola Nilame was a courtier of the Kingdom of Kandy. He was the 1st Adigar (Maha Adikaram) from 1811 to 1814 under the reign King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha. Following the brutal execution of his entire family by the King, he aided the British in launching an invasion of the Kandy Kingdom and was instrumental in the Kandyan Convention that followed which led to the annexed the Kandy Kingdom to the British Empire.

Photography was prohibited inside the museum

The museum has an excellent of prehistoric objects and vertebrate fossils of Rhinoceros and Elephants, all collected from gen pits and cave sites of the Ratnapura district. Small collections of jewelry, textiles, carvings, archaeological objects, semi-precious gem stones and zoo-logical specimens are also displayed. The museum is closed on Fridays and public holidays and open on all other days of the week from 9.00 am to 5pm.

Next we travelled on the Pelmadulla road to visit the Kirindi Ella falls

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Kirindi Ella, turn off  from Pelmadulla Main road – Pelmadulla (4 km away from Ratnapura).

It is the seventh highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. Take the Ratnapura – Pelmadulla highway and 600m before the Kuttapitiya junction, turn left down the Kuttapitiya road. Continue for 5km to find the fall.

The road leading to the site is not repaired and difficult for a car with low road clearance to travel on the road.

Near the Kirindi ella board put up by the authorities the is a flight of steps  down to visit the viewing gallery now mostly neglected.

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Since there was little rain the Water fall did not had the beauty it should have had

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The, 116m-high Kirindi Ella, which flows from its starting point 940m up the Kuttapitiya Mountain. The stream travels 13km before the cascading point in the Kaluwaramukalana Jungle. It then flows via the Denawaka River to the Kaluganga River; located in the Bambarakotuwa Jungle. It is said that a flight of stone steps leads down to the bottom, where a treasure trove is hidden. It is worth noting however, that the water completely dries up during times of drought and there have been no reports of found treasure. In the wooded area surrounding the fall, a multitude of plant species can be found, together with wildlife including wild boar, cobra, monkeys and reptiles. This area was previously known as Kustapitiya, meaning itch, as folklore has it that a king suffering from an itch had lived here. Local villagers also believe that during Halloween, human voices can be heard near the fall. Furthermore, it is said that fireballs can be seen in the skies above the fall at night.

Rajanawa Falls.

Mawadalla village is found about 4 miles from Nivitnigala Main road when coming from Ratnapura. In Mawudalla town, take a left turn from a place called ‘Mahapalama’ (main bridge) and you will arrive at this waterfall

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The photo above is the Rajanawa dola as there was little water we did not have the wish to go down the steps to see the falls.

Katugas Falls

To reach the 6m-high Katugas Falls, which is situated in the Ratnapura District, take the road from Colombo to Ratnapura and turn off at Weralupa junction. Head towards Koswinna for 2.5km until the small bridge, where there is a minor road. The fall can be found 100m down this road.From Weralupa junction and take a left hand turn towards Kospelawinna. After traveling 2Km’s you will approach a junction where you need to take a left hand turn and come to a location with a cricket ground and a nearby bridge.. Walk few hundred meters along the stream and continued up stream tackling rocks and streams and you will reach a small cascade of Katugas dola which will easily fool any person as Katugas falls. Actually the main waterfall is found further upstream

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Here too lack of rain the water fall was not of a beautiful fall. But there were young adults with arrack and food enjoying and spoiling the environment

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Next we went to the  Delgamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya 

Take the right turn just before the 86th kilometer post of the A4 down to Delgamuwa, the reputed hiding place of the Tooth Relic after it was removed from Kotte where it was housed unit the 1550s. With the assistance and guidance of kind Mayadunne the Tooth Relic was brought up to Delgamuwa and kept in a huge grinding stone at the vihare premises. Now this has become an important exhibit of the period. In 1593 the relic was taken to Kandy from here, by king Wimaladharmasooriya I, who housed the relic in a temple originally built for the purpose. This ended the forty two year period of the relic at Delgamuwa Rajamaha viharaya.

Soon after the viharaya was demolished by the Portuguese who constructed a fort there. The present viharaya, which lies close to the old Sinhalese road from Sitawaka to Uva, was built at the site of this fort.

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We visited the Batatota cave temple on our way to Ratnapura on the 31st July.

The sleepy village of Erathna, a mountainous hamlet, lies just 20 kilometres from Kuruwita. Nature has blessed this village and one can see the profusion of wilderness on all sides. It is on the foothills of Sri Pada or Adam’s Peak.

We travelled eight kilometres on the narrow Kuruwita – Erathna road, and reached a small junction called Batatota. We then preceded another one-and-a-half kilometres on the steep incline and arrived at a car park right in the center of the incline.

It is a cave system in Sudagala, 5 km away from the town of Kuruwita.

From the car park, just over a quarter of a kilometre away, the neatly built vertical steps flanked by vendors on both sides lead to the Batatota cave temple, which is also believed by some to be the ancient site of Diwaguhawa. The site is not only famous for its ancient monastery, but also for its majestic dagaba and ancient murals. What appeals to visitors is the wilderness and the panoramic view of Sri Pada, which is about 15 kilometres from the east of this spot.

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The Flight of steps to the cave

The Flight of steps to the cave

Since the spot has gained popularity, villagers make a livelihood, selling Kitul jaggery and hand-made souvenirs to visitors who trek to the sacred precincts. The road to the cave is lined by these vendors.

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On the left of the main cave is the devale dedicated to God Vishnu and on the right is another large cave with drip ledges, believed to have been inhabited by monks, many years ago. A cave in the shape of a tunnel called “Sthripura” the city of women) named after the many wives of a king, who are said to have inhabited it, sited just below the maini cave can be reached by passing several meters along the same rock slab of the Batatota cave.

The Vishnu Devalaya in the cave

The Vishnu Devalaya in the cave

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Legend says that this cave temple was built by King Nissankamalla (1178-1207) during the Polonnaruwa period in which the King had accidently discovered the temple, on his way to Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak). Batatota cave temple is also venerated for ‘Diwaguhawa’ where Lord Buddha is said to have spent the rest of his day with 500 disciples on his return from the Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak). Legend also cites that Lord Buddha has taken rest in this cave after placing the footprint on Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak) on the invitation of God Sumana Saman.

The most remarkable feature in this cave temple is that drops of water dripping from the ceiling even in dry weather. There is also a water pond in the cave itself and the sun’s rays fall inside the cave from dawn to dusk.

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The scenic beauty from the top of the mountain

We ended the trip before returning to Colombo by visiting the Bo Path Ella for a cooling dip

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The Deer park hotel where we stayed the night out.

Deer Park is located at a kilometer distance from the heart of Ratnapura city in a small village called Muwagama, The place is ideal as a stopover on a long journey or for a short break to visit local attractions.

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After w full one and half day trip we arrived in Colombo at about 7.30pm on the 1st of July 2015

Happy reading

Harsha Soysa

(historical facts obtained from internet)

Something which has always puzzled me is figuring out the difference between Trekking and Hiking. Well you might say that it is like the difference between Complete and Finished. However one professor had given a proper explanation as to what the difference between Complete and Finished and I’m sure you know what it is. For those who don’t know, here’s the explanation given by that professor.

“When you marry the right woman, you’re complete.

If you marry the wrong woman, you’re finished.

And if the right woman catches you with the wrong one, then you’re completely finished.”

Makes sense, doesn’t it? Ok, jokes aside, I’ve tried to find the difference between hiking and trekking and from what I gathered; Trekking is a long journey which you do along unpaved paths whereas Hiking is done on paved paths and not so long in terms of the distance and the time. Further it’s said that Trekking is more strenuous than Hiking. Some say that Hiking is the old word and Trekking is a modern word which has the same meaning. Also, in certain countries they use different terms such as Hiking (Canada & US), Trekking (Britain & Ireland), Backpacking, Hillwalking (Britain), Tramping (New Zealand), Bushwalking, etc. Here’s what the Wikipedia has to say about it. If you know better, please let us know.

If you wonder what on earth I was talking about Hiking and Trekking, it’s because the next story is going to be all about vigorous trekking through one of the most scenic and unique forest reserves in the whole world, Knuckles Mountain Range. She’s also known as Dumbara Kanduvetiya and often robed in thick layers of clouds. This is one of the richest rain forests in terms of biodiversity. Not only the lush greenery and pristine white clouds make it so glamorous, but also the legendary stories related to Ravana the Great.

So I’m gonna take you on a long trek through another area of Knuckles starting from probably the most beautiful village in the world, Meemure. I’ll be accompanied by the best person when it comes to guide you in the Knuckles, Nava Mama and Uncle Tony. I hope you’re ready for yet another roller-coaster journey through many obstacles. So fasten your seat belts and hold tightly. Here we go.

It’s been two years since I first visited Meemure and ever since I’ve visited Meemure a few more times. The pinnacle of all the journeys was climbing the Lakegala last year. Every now and then I get this longing to go see Meemure and the first thing I do is call Nava Mama and ask what we could do. Well, it looks there’s enough to do in Knuckles for a lifetime. When I called this time, he suggested we do the Kalupahana area which is popularly known among the villagers as the Leech Headquarters. After a half a dozen calls, we had a workable plan and fixed the dates at the last minute as the weather was so unpredictable. Meanwhile Uncle Tony managed to get leave and join me for this exclusive journey.

I met Tony at Fort Railway Station at 1pm on a hot and humid Saturday. We got into an already crowded AC bus and found those shaky jump seats in the middle. It was really tough sitting in them but we had no choice as we needed to get to Kandy as soon as possible. We reached there just after 4.30pm and went shopping. Now don’t get alarmed coz we didn’t go hunting for clothes but for the dry rations we’d need for the 3-day camping trip. Well to be honest, I’m not an experienced camper either so we all had to think carefully as to what we were going to eat and take with us. It was essential we carried the bare minimum without overloading our backpacks which would hamper our progress during the course of the hike.

After the shopping and a snack lunch, we got back to Good Shed looking for a bus to Hunnasgiriya. Time had gone past 6pm and our best bet was to squeeze into an overflowing Ampara bus. Fortunately Nava Mama had fixed a tuk-tuk for us at Hunnasgiriya and we called Ramesh telling him of our late arrival at Hunnasgiriya. We finally arrived at Hunnasgiriya around 7.45pm and got into Ramesh’s bus (don’t worry it’s the bus he uses to transport staff to a garment factory. His house is between Loolwatte and Deanston and the tuk-tuk was at there) and settled down. The road up to Deanston is carpeted mostly but there are patches still not completed yet. It looks as if the construction is halted due to some unknown reason.

We reached Loolwatte and transferred our luggage to the tuk-tuk and braced against the bone-chilling cold. The wind bit into our exposed skin sending a chill all the way from the toes to the roots of our hair. The road after Corbet’s Gap was so much deteriorated and I wonder how even a van manages to travel back and forth. The concrete had come off in chunks making it deadly dangerous and difficult for the vehicles. After a long and tiring ride, we finally arrived at Nava Mama’s place around 10pm for a warm welcome by him. This was a different person with a long beard very much like Robinson Crusoe.

After a brief chit-chat, Tony started searching for his wallet which was left apparently inside either Ramesh’s bus or the tuk-tuk. Unfortunately Ramesh had already left and there’s no mobile reception on the way to Meemure. So while waiting anxiously for Ramesh to get back home, we took a shower and then dinner. We waited till midnight trying his number again and again with no luck before giving up and hitting the sack. I don’t think Tony slept well in the night but I slept like a log. Well, I’ll see you in the morning and hopefully we’ll have better luck with Tony’s wallet. There’s still so much to prepare for the journey and we’d need every minute of the precious sleep we could get on a cozy mattress before sleeping under the stars enveloped by the gushing winds.

Good News & Preparation for the Hike

I heard Tony shuffling and got up to find it was just gone 4.30am. Apparently he’s had a pitiful night worrying over the wallet so I got up and started calling Ramesh having woken the whole household. Thankfully he answered the phone and when I told him what had happened he said he’d go to the bus and tuk-tuk and take a look. After about 10 mins which felt like an eternity, he came on the line to say the wallet was found in the bus and I heard Tony heaved a sigh of relief. He promised to send the wallet with the van that evening. Finally we could get on with the packing in peace.

We had to be ready for 7 main meals. So we got things together and planned accordingly. The breakfast and lunch were on this day were going to be easy as we would have our breakfast before leaving and take some lunch packs with us leaving only five more meals to be prepared on the go. I’ll just give you a list of the things we carried with us and hope it’ll help you figure out how to be ready when you do camping.

List of Things:

• Two 2-man Tents
• Two Small Pots
• Spoons, Cups and Paper Plates
• Paper Tissues
• Kerosene and a Lamp
• Soap & Toothpaste
• A Rope (about 30ft in Length)
• Clothes, Blankets, Mats & Sleeping Bags
• A Machete
• A Box of Matches and a Lighter
• Couple of Torches

Food Items:

• Instant Noodles (8 Small Packs for Two Meals)
• Packet of Pasta (for One Meal)
• Two Loaves of Slicked Bread (for Two Meals)
• Packet of Cheese
• 3 Packets of Biscuits
• 3 Chocolates
• 1 Can of Pre-cooked Polos
• 1 Can of Chicken Meat Balls
• 1 Can of Tuna & Vegetable Paste
• 20 Sachets of Nescafe 3 in 1
• 6 Packets of Jeewani
• 4 Bottles of Water (1 liter each)
• Some Salt, Chilies & Onions

I guess that’s all we carried except ourselves. Everyone at the household was giving bits and pieces of advice making it even more complex. What they didn’t know was that it was us who had to carry all those through the untouched and hazardous jungle with no trails whatsoever. Finally we managed to pack everything into our sacks and be ready for the longest trail I’ve done so far at a stretch. Are you ready to follow? See these few pics before you join.

Our collection

Labuketaya where the people in the past carried water

Typical item in the old village kitchens

Things made from the resources of jungle

Nava mama’s son helping him

The three-man team

Meemure to the Top of Navarathna Ella (aka Diyakerella Ella)

We got a ride from Nava Mama’s son in his Bolero Cab (he’s in the middle of getting this prepared with benches and the back covered so that if there’s a larger group that comes by bus can get to Meemure in this) all the way up to the paddy field near the historical Bo tree. However before that we stopped at the village shop to buy some incense sticks to light at the Devalaya invoke blessings. I guess you can remember we did the same when we were climbing the Lakegala. So we got down at the paddy field and bid farewell to Nava Mama’s son and Chanaka (remember he too joined us for the Lakegala Adventure).

After a short video documentary elaborating our planned journey, we started to walk parallel to the Meemure Oya aka Theembigolla Oya at 10am, a bit later than we would’ve liked but we needed to make sure we covered everything before doing it hastily and find us in trouble. After about 200m, we arrived at the Devalaya and lit our incense sticks and worshipped the statue placed there. This was gonna be a long and tough journey so we needed all the blessings of these unseen powers to make it a success and get back in one piece. We walked along the edge of the paddy field until it ended at the buffer zone between the village and the reserve. Well, this was the same path to the Navarathna Ella via Daluggolla Ella. We’ll be screened by the tree cover from the burning sun. Why don’t you take a look at while we get on the trail?

My beloved Lakegala and the brown paddy fields after the harvests

Closer look

Towards Gala Muduna

Our target area. Kalupahana is to the left and Rehena Ketu Pathana to the top right

Invoking blessings

Statue of the God

Still her sexy pointy look

Wish they were nice and green

Before we entered into the jungle path

The shady path looked really appealing and kept us nice and cool. We kept going with Nava Mama leading from the front. It’s always important to let the people who know the area go in front wherever you go as it’ll help you stay safe as they know where the troubles are. This path was familiar to me somewhat coz this was the first trail I took when I came to Meemure for the first time two years ago and it’s etched in my memory like a stone inscription. Walking through we met another group of people walking ahead of us with another villager. They were a family group and were going to see the Navarathna Ella. They all stared at us the back-packers bewildered wondering what on earth we were carrying such heavy loads if we were going to see the same place. Nava Mama stopped and explained to them of our target but it made little difference coz most of the names he used sounded like Greek to them.

We both arrived at the Daluggolla Ella at the same time. I’ve been here before and kind of responsible for naming her but unfortunately couldn’t get a video of her. So this presented a better opportunity for me to fulfill that need. Unfortunately the water levels were very low which means I’ll have to come back again. After a short break and a couple of sips of water and Jeewani, we hit the road while the other group stayed behind enjoying the typical beauty of the village. Just before we go further, do you know how this area came to know as Daluggolla? It’s because of the Daluk Trees in the area. So the area full of Daluk Trees came to be called as Dalukgolla or Daluggolla. This is also the further most paddy field from Meemure and closest to the conservation.

Nava mama and Tony with all smiles

Away goes Tony behind Nava mama

Meemure Oya dried up dramatically

Shady path

Crossing a few open areas as well

It was a relief to have this shade

Artistic Nuga Trees all over

Daluggolla paddy fields beyond this

There is Lakegala with her shape changed into a box

Daluggolla Ella is here

There she is with very little water

Mid base pool

Towards the bottom

We continued on passing a beautifully decorated vine where we took a few pictures. After a short while, we arrived at the place called Ice Wala. This is a pond like place in the Meemure Oya and the village boys have named it Ice Wala for some reason not known. Nonetheless the water in this is really cold and might be the reason for the name. this is where we had to cross the Meemure Oya and go uphill along the path. We saw a Common Kingfisher trying to catch some fish at Ice Wala before crossing. The path was shady but got steeper as we went. After a while we had to re-cross the Meemure Oya. This was where the poisonous Maussa Plants were in large numbers and Nava Mama kept a closer eye out for them.

A little while later we came to a turn off where the right hand path branched to the base of Navarathna Ella and the left one towards Pethangolla and the top of Navarathna Ella. We went on along the left hand path without bothering to go to the base of the falls. Now the trail was a steady climb uphill and it was testing our stamina to the limits. However little did we know that this was just the beginning and there’d be many more testing times waiting for us in the next 48 hours. After a steady climb we arrived at a place called Pethangolla. This got its name thanks to the Pethan Plants (tiny plant with purple flowers that bloom in bunches).

We took a short detour to the right where we could visit the Navarathna Ella from the top. This was a little dangerous as we had to maneuver closer to the edge of the rock where the water falls making this beautiful falls. We finally arrived at the top of the falls and felt a sensational feeling. Reaching the top carefully we got to the edge with the help of Nava Mama holding onto the nearby trees and looked down. Remember safety comes first no matter what. Looking down we saw a few colorful ants below near the base pool. Looking closer through the camera lens, we figured them to be the group followed us not some strange ants.

Well you can imagine how tall this falls is, can’t you? At a guess, I’m sure it’s something around 300-400ft tall if not more. The water levels were very low and the people in the base pool finally noticed us waving from the top. They kept waving at us and we finally got to a safer place and took a much needed break. We ate a packet of biscuits and washed it down with fresh and cool water. Well from here it’s gonna be even more difficult and the backpacks threatened to wear us down faster than we liked. However, we weren’t not gonna give in and accept defeat that easily. If the backpacks thought we’d bow down that easily, they had another think coming. While we plan the rest of the journey, you can enjoy the pictures.

Gigantic creepers

Artistic too

See the size?

Here’s the Robinson Crusoe like Nava mama

Found him at Ice Wala

Looking at us

Ice Wala

A close-up

This had been left behind

Nice forest patch to walk on

Hard work

Crossing the Meemure Oya again

We left it and headed uphill

Pethan plants and their flowers used by a butterfly

Distant mountains towards Gala Mudunua

Top of Navarathna Ella

The base, can you see those colorful ants?

Well no ants

Finally spotted us

Very little water

Having a bath

Where we rested

From here she jumps out

Time to move on

From the Top of Navarathna Ella to Kalupahana

We kept up the uphill journey with very few breaks in between. After laboring about for half hour we arrived at a flat area with stones marking the perimeter in an oval shape. Nava Mama explained that this was called the Udawannimana Ruppa. It’s not clear as to when this was used in the past. However according to folklore this could go as far back as King Ravana the Great. There are four entrances to Meemure which are from Kalugala, Dandenikumbura (from Galamuduna & Kahatagahawela), Narangamuwa and Kalupahana. There are four places like this at the entrance to Meemure from all four trails. You must’ve seen one such a place in Suriya Arana Movie which is closer to Suriya Arana Ella and it leads to Dandenikumbura.

This could also have been used in the way back when Ravana was defending his strongholds of Lakegala and nearby from the invading forces led by Hanuman and Rama. In the recent past, those who plucked Cardamom in Kalupahana area had used this as a resting place on their way back and forth from Meemure. It must’ve been really tough task for those people to have walked all the way to and from Kalupahana. Nava Mama said even village women used to do the same leaving Meemure around 5am and returning around 6pm.

Another historic event was when King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe was captured at Bombure off Medamahanuwara on his way fleeing from the English soldiers in search of a hiding place in the Knuckles. If only he’d been able to reach Rangala, then he could’ve easily avoided capture and the whole of our history must’ve been upside down. However the King managed to send two of his daughters to Meemure where they lived until death. The well they bathed is located closer to the historic Bo tree in the paddy fields.

Ok, time we moved on and Nava Mama plucked a branch of a tree and hung it at the place invoking blessing from the gods. There were a couple of very dry branches marking that there had been no one on this path for the last couple of years at least. The time had gone past 12.30pm and we were feeling hungry. Nava mama suggested a place near Kirindiketiya for us to have lunch. He said there should be a spring that doesn’t get dried even during the severest of droughts. Have I told you before that Nava mama hadn’t been on this trail since 2001? Do you expect someone to remember such trivialities even after nearly one and half a decade?

Well, he’s an exceptional human being when it comes to locating places inside this mysterious forest reserve. We veered off the trail (well there was no trail after the Udawannimana Ruppa as it’d overgrown due to the lack of human intervention) and went into the deep forest and as if by magic came upon a cluster of rocks. There was no sign of a water stream but Nava mama found it hidden underneath the rocks. Having cleared around he cut a tree bark and made a few inches long half a tube to collect water. There were leeches despite no rains in the recent past. We unpacked our lunch packs and settled on a rock to savor the last meal of rice and curry for the next 3 days. Enjoy some pictures while we eat.

At Udawannimana Ruppa

The artistic Nuga trees

Kala Veddha’s (Polecat)

It was very steep and back-breaking

Here the leopard pooh

Mummified cricket

Shaped like a leopard paw

Nice cave

With nice rain cover

Oh, found a Hermit

Nava mama improvising

There

Pilot run

Crystal clear

Tony digging in

Here’s the poor lunch

After the lunch, we decided to go look for an even taller waterfall hidden inside the Knuckles but found it’d completely dried out due to lack of rains. However, it’d be a crazy to come during the rains here as it’d be swarming with leeches. Feeling a bit disappointed, we carried on and Nava mama showed us a tree hole where he’d found a bees’ honey in 1988 for his niece. We found it still to be an empty hole and apparently the bees hadn’t bothered to make yet another honeycomb afterwards.

Then we had to walk along a narrow path with a deep ravine to our right. We almost bent in half and held onto the ground and tiny plants to our right so as not to fall. This is called Heerala Ella named after Heerala who used to stay here and tap toddy. Passing that Nava mama pointed at a caved to our left at a higher ground and said that was where a giant tusker stayed. It’s called “Atha Lagapu Gallena”. Passing that we arrived at a place called Oyabokka where Nava mama’s grandfather had a 105-acre cardamom plantation from 1964 till early 90s. He’d been one of the first people who had come to this area just below Kalupahana to pluck cardamoms.

We then climbed up to the Kalupahana area where the terrain was flat and full of cardamom plants among huge trees. Nava mama’s cardamom hut had been destroyed either by the jumbos or the wind and rain. We stayed there for a few minutes and even found an old kettle among the debris. There were trees such as Rukaththana, Pihimbiya and some flowery shrubs which don’t grow in the Knuckles around the hut. Nava mama said that his grandfather was an indigenous doctor and had planted some of the medicinal trees such as Rukaththana to treat the snake bites. Gombaniya and Kudagala were towering above us beyond a clump of trees and I felt elated as she’s one of my targets. My beloved Lakegala could also be seen from here but not in her majestic pyramidal shape. She was more like a stretched squared from the side and this is where we climbed her. While we sort out our next steps, enjoy these pictures.

Gigantic trees in the thick forest

And wider

Taller

The Mama & Bena

Mushy mushroom

This is where Nava mama had found a bees’ honeycomb so long ago

Ideal opening area to rest and have a meal but we didn’t

Not sure what this was, like grapes

Lakegala in the distance

Heerala Ella

More	Must be a huge waterfall during the rainy season

Some flowers blossomed in the middle of it

Well, no water now

Another cave at the base

Not sure what it is

Had been used by the toddy tappers

Cardamom plants marking the edge of the estate

Signs of human intervention

Rabbit’s?

Where his garden used to be

Fallen down hut

Must be very old

Lakegala seen from the land

Now the terrain is flat

Sun going down fast

Good for firewood

Ready to continue

Rehena Ketu Pathana

We were in a dilemma whether to bunk down for the day or keep on going. Rehena Ketu Pathana was close by so decided to go and see if we could camp there and Nava mama said that there’s a spring but not sure about the water levels. In addition to that, we saw many Kithul trees had been fallen by the jumbos in search of its inner core. If there were elephants, it’d be deadly dangerous for us to camp at Rehena Ketu Pathana. We decided to go see and walked along the cardamom plants and arrived at the Kandy-Matale District Boundary in the middle of the jungle. There had been a person called Ankumubura who had his cardamom plantation in the Matale side of the jungle whereas Nava mama’s grandfather had his in Kandy side.

We walked cautiously keeping the noise to a minimum and stopping every now and then to listen for jumbos. Fortunately there was none and we didn’t even find their dung signaling they hadn’t arrived yet. After a while, we came out of the jungle into an opening which was the gorgeous Rehena Ketu Pathana. It looked nice and green with endless views towards the east. From here we could clearly see the three separate rocks of Lakegala (Komalewe Gala, Meeriyagolle Gala and Labulesse Gala aka Lakegala) and then moving on Kehelpathdoruwa, Galamuduna and then Andirigala, Gombaniya and Kudagala.

We got rid of our laden backpacks and enjoyed these superb views. Tony wanted to jump up and down and I managed to take a picture of him in the process. Nava mama helped do a short documentary which is included in the video journey for your reference. The time was around 4pm and we had to walk across to the other end to find the spring. However before that, you’d like to see some pictures, wouldn’t you?

GPS Location of Rehana Ketu Pathana

Lat: 7.45333 / Lon: 80.81310

Altitude: 1238m

The path is in good condition through the cardamom plants

Huge trees to complement

Some of these as well

This was a very complicated tree

Nava mama climbed to observe the surroundings

So wide like a wall

Hurray, at Rehena Ketu Pathana at last

Towards Kehelpathdoruwa and Galamuduna

Can you see the Lakegala?

There, now a completely different shape

Appalla Pathana in the foreground and Belumgala to the right

You can see the tiny patch in the middle which is Meemure paddy fields

Gombaniya

Clear view towards Meemure

Gombaniya and Kudagala

Nava mama enjoying the scenery after many years

Tony feeling the heat

Here’s the blackedn Rehena Ketu Pathana

We walked along the plains to the other end and could see the Riverston Mountain Range in the distance. There was a huge pile of rocks marking the district boundary on the plains itself. It was so nice for being able to jump from one district to the other in a fraction of a second. I enjoyed the scenery while Tony and Nava mama got busy with the spring hunting. The Riverston area was covered with a thick layer of mist making it impossible to take a decent picture and the setting sun made it even tougher. For a fraction of a second we saw the Riverston Telecommunications Towers but then got completely covered.

There was no sign of Tony and Nava mama so I ventured into the edge of the tree line and found them lying on a rocky slope exhausted.

“Is there a spring?” I asked.

“Nope” answered Tony.

“Then what on earth are we waiting here for? Let’s make a move and try to reach a shelter soon” I wondered out loud.

So we hurriedly got back on the path and bid farewell to this wonderful place on earth. Nava mama suggested we go to the Diya Nilla where Meemure Oya starts and replenish our water bottles and have a bath and then decide as to where to camp for the day. While we gear up for that, enjoy some pictures.

Tony walking towards the other end

Gombaniya and Kudagala side by side

What’s the rocky pile?

District division between Kandy and Matale

Towards Riverston, completely blocked

The slope towards Riverton

Knuckles peaks to the left

Zoomed

Look at the rays of the sinking sun

Life on the rocks

Rabbit’s probably

Taking a much needed break

Time to go towards Hunugallena

Can you make out the path?

Looking back before leaving her

Tony and Nava mama entering back into the jungle path

An orchid found

Settling for the Night at Hunugallena

We crossed the forest patch once again and gave up the idea of camping at Nava mama’s abandoned and destroyed cardamom hut and carried on towards Diya Nilla. By now the leeches had openly declared war on us and we had to keep going to avoid being bitten by them. There was a path among the cardamom plants and Nava mama said that there are people from Laggala and Narangamuwa who come here to pluck cardamom even now. They stay at one of the other cardamom huts which used to belong to Nava mama and dry the cardamom before taking them home. Can you guess the price of a dried cardamom kilo? It’s something over Rs. 3000/-, no wonder people dare all the difficulties to get at them.

We finally arrived at the Diya Nilla where Theembigolla aka Meemure Oya started her journey downwards before joining with Heen Ganga beyond Dandenikumbura. The water was so cold as if straight out of the fridge but we had to have a bath and fill our containers as there was no other water source for the next 1km or so before getting into the Hunugallena. So we got under the water flow wincing under the pain the icy cold water caused on our bare skin. However it did help to get the crampedness out of our over-worked muscles.

After a cold bath, we filled our cartons and carried on until we came to the cardamom hut which was in a very good state and occupied by some people. However nobody was at home so we explored inside. There were two rooms inside. One was dedicated for drying the cardamom while the other served as the kitchen cum living quarters. There was another part which had crumbled down over time. We decided it’d be not wise to stay here with others as it’s gonna be a tight fit inside the house. So we left it behind and started our way towards the Hunugallena. It must be noted that the people who come here have caused a lot of damage to the nearby forest by cutting down the trees for firewood. I hope the forest officials would take a look at these places and make sure they kept the forest intact.

One of the better conditioned cardamom huts

Nobody home

One side is in ruins

Inside

It’s occupied alright

This is the drying room of cardamom

Freshly plucked ones

This is where they are being dried

To the rear

Full frame from the rear

They use plant like these for firewood

We carried on and the time had just reached 6pm and the winds had picked up dramatically swaying the trees inside the jungle dangerously. We had to hurry and took the downhill journey near the Belumgala (we’ll go there tomorrow). It was very dark now as we were in the thick jungle and we had to find our way with difficulty. Nava mama kept going and we didn’t wanna light the torches as it’d mean stopping and having to rummage through the contents. Our eyes still could see quite well so we pushed on. Tony kept slipping from one rock to the other and used his back to get down most of the time. Unfortunately Nava mama hit his knee after slipping on a rock cutting it open.

I was scared but finally we made it to the cave and sat down on the rocky surface with a deep sigh. Gosh it had been a roller coaster journey and finally we made it to the cave in one piece except for a few dozen cuts and bruises. The cave was not spacious like the Alugallena but sufficient to spend a night. Nava mama said this was used by the poachers to rest and dry their game meat in the past. There was no water source anywhere near but we had enough to get by. So we started making a hearth and then boiled some water and made coffee. Gosh it tasted heavenly after an exhausting day. We then made the dinner which was noodles and sat down to enjoy the meal. In the meantime Nava mama lit the lamp we had brought with us with kerosene and kept it at the edge of the cave.

It helped to conserve the power of our torches. Then we pitched our tents on the slightly sloping rocky surface. It found to be very difficult as we kept sliding along the surface inside the tents. As a result we slept very little during the night. We’d fall asleep and in a short while will find ourselves at the edge of the tent feeling very uncomfortable and had to get back into position once again. This had to be repeated over and over again making it hard to grab some decent amount of sleep. We kept chatting from one tent to the other and recalling the day’s events. The wind kept howling throughout the night making it rattle our tents. We were wondering if the wind would take us off the ground and throw into the ravine below. I didn’t think it could blow so strongly. We waited impatiently for the morning amid all the confusion. Just remember to have a nice and flat surface to camp as it’ll help you get a good night’s sleep. Well why don’t you check out the last set of pictures for the day?

GPS Location of Hunugallena

Lat: 7.44165 / Lon: 80.81709

Altitude: 1209m

Tony separating the noodles from the water

Sloping terrain

Cooking is over and we’re ready to sleep

There he’s about to go in

Ok folks, we spent a pitiful night inside the tent and in the morning we’ll have plenty of ground to cover if we were to achieve the targets set before the journey. It was a super-duper hike and there would be plenty to do tomorrow. Here are some Panos I’ve taken during the course of the day.

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 5

It’s time I said good-bye to you all. Be sure to join me in the morning for the Episode 2.

This is Sri signing off for now.

Take care and keep traveling.

The historical legend of Sri Lanka starts from Vijaya, who was the eldest son of King Sinhabahu and queen Sinhasivali of Lata deshaya of India (Identified as present Rarh region of West Bengal) who landed at Thambapanni in 543BC with 700 followers. He became the ruler of the country starting the genealogy of kings of Sri Lanka. His administration was from Thambapanni, the area where he landed. His successors, King Upatissa, Panduwasadewa, Abhaya and Tissa ruled from Upatissagama and Anuradhagama which were not yet capital cities but rural colonies. Unlike the other two, Anuradhagama stabilized as the administrative centre. It existed as a colony for 1 ½ centuries up to the reign of King Pandukabhaya who started the development of Anuradhagama and transformed it to the royal city, Anuradhapura.

Kingdom of Anuradhapura

King Pandukabhaya started ruling the country from the administrative capital, Anuradhapura which was the first kingdom of Sri Lanka from 377BC. City was further developed by the subsequent kings and reached the heights of its glory. Amidst occasional south Indian attacks, Anuradhapura remained as the capital for 14 centuries until 10^th Century BC. During the reign of the King Mihindu V who was a weak administrator, Anuradhapura was severely attacked by Chola invaders in 1017.  As south Indian invaders captured Anuradhapura and started ruling from there, there was no option other than moving the capital to elsewhere. Cholas ruled Anuradhapura till 1070 and the kingdom was abandoned thereafter as the Polonnaruwa emerged as the second Kingdom of Sri Lanka in 1056 with the enthronement of king Vijayabahu I.

Kingdom of Polonnaruwa

From the 1^st century, there are evidences of the existence of Polonnaruwa as a colony. During Anuradhapura era, several development works had been done by the kings. City was developed at a strategic position close to the border of Pihiti Rata and Ruhunu Rata which was demarcated by river Mahaweli. During foreign invasions to Rajarata, Sinhalese kings used take strategic moves to Ruhuna for protection and then return with troops. Therefore Polonnaruwa located close to the border was important as a backup station. It is believed that Polonnaruwa is the place where King Dutugemunu’s troops camped for the war against King Elara.

Polonnaruwa remained as the royal capital for 180 years from 1056 to 1236. However, after the reign of king Nissankamalla in 1196, kingdom was changed hands 11 times between kings within 16 years. Some kings could not hold on even for a single year. Thus, the kingdom was politically unstable and was highly vulnerable. Under this circumstance, fall of this kingdom started in 1212 with the invasion of Parakrama Pandu and Kalimga Magha. Parakrama Pandu who was a Pandyan King ruled from Polonnaruwa till 1215 and then the invasion of Kalinga Magha who expelled Parakrama Pandu and ruled from 1215 to 1236 recorded the collapse of the second kingdom. During the attack of Magha, destruction of sacred sites in Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, theft, torture and harassments to civilians happened in massive scale. Even Thuparamaya and most sacred Ruwanweli Seya were raided by him. His priorities were to steal the wealth of the country and people and to overturn the traditions and culture of the community. As a result, there was a mass migration of civilians to south west towards the mountainous interior of the country.

Kingdom of Dambadeniya

Since the impact of the invasions occurred was so severe, situation became more and more vulnerable. Kingdoms of the north central region, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa which stood for over 15 centuries disappeared, never to return. Sinhalese rulers shifted their seat of governance towards south west regions of the island.

Amidst the unsettled situation, a successor of the royal blood line Vanni Vijayabahu (A descendant of King Sirisangabo) who moved to Dambadeniya, established the kingdom coming to the throne as King Vijayabahu III. There were some regional rulers too in the other parts of the country but Dambadeniya was prominent as the capital which sheltered the sacred tooth relic. At the time of his enthronement, as the country had been under the invaders for a considerable period, Buddhism was at a deteriorating phase due to several threats and absence of royal patronage. Maha Sangha  had been fled in various directions due to the hostile activities of Kalinga Magha. Therefore, key focus of King Vijayabahu III was to unite Maha Sangha and reinstate Buddhism to its former glory.

Meanwhile, Indian invaders ruling from Polonnaruwa made several efforts to capture the tooth relic because the ruler who is having the sacred tooth relic with him was accepted as the real king. Therefore, king Wijayabahu III took actions to hide the tooth relic in Beligala RMV located in the village where he was born. Beligala RMV sheltered the tooth relic for two years.

After his short period of reign from 1232 to 1236 AD, his sun succeeded to the throne as King Parakramabahu II recording the golden age of Dambadeniya from 1236 to 1270. He defeated Kalinga Magha who was ruling Polonnaruwa in 1236 was able to attch Rajarata back to Sinhalese kingdom.  He took actions to send his elder son Vijayabahu to recover the ancient sites of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa including Thuparamaya and Ruwanweli seya. King Parakramabahu II was a great poet and has the reputation as a king who had rendered a remarkable service to Sinhalese literature and Buddhism. He was called Panditha Parakramabahu (Held the title of honor Kalikala Sahithya Sarvagngna Panditha) in recognition of the immense service done in favour of sinhalese literature. Kavsilumina which is a great piece of literature and Visuddi Marga Sannasa are among his writings.

He constructed a three storied Dalada Maligawa in Dambadeniya. It can be seen today in the premises of Wijayasundararamaya as a two storied building after conservation by the Department of Archaeology.

Next in the royal line was King Vijayabahu IV who was the elder son of king Parakramabahu II. He was called Bosath Vijayabahu owing to his modest behavior and religious activities.  His reign from Dambadeniya was just 02 years from 1270 to 1272 since he was assassinated by one of his ministers called Miththa. Then his brother (Younger son of King Parakramabahu II) succeeded to the throne as King Buwanekabahu I in 1272 AD and ruled the country till 1284. During this period, he moved to Yapahuwa due to security threats, shifting the capital city marking the end of Dambadeniya kingdom.

Although the move happened during the reign of King Buwanekabahu I (1272-1284), there is no evidence of the exact time of the move. So the whole period of King Buwanekabahu I is considered under both Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa periods. Hence there is an overlapping.

Genealogy of Kings of Dambadeniya

King Vijayabahu III             1232-1236               04 Years

King Parakramabahu II        1236-1270               34 Years

King Vijayabahu IV             1270-1272               02 Years

King Buwanekabahu I          1272-1284               12 Years

(Ruled from both Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa. Moved to Yapahuwa)

Kingdom of Yapahuwa

During the whole period where Dambadeniya stood as the capital (1232 – 1284), Indian invaders Kalinga Magha (1215 – 1236) and Arya Chakrawarthi (1236-1284) were ruling from Polonnaruwa and Jaffna respectively. Since an attack from the Indian invaders was possible any time, Yapahuwa was used as a watch tower for early identification of the enemies. A military chief named Subha had been stationed on the top of Yapahuwa rock for this purpose. Owing to that Yapahuwa was alternatively called Subha Pabbatha. King Buwanekabahu I who considered Dambadeniya as insecure, used this territory to build his palace and military stronghold against South Indian invaders. Yapahuwa served as the capital of Sri Lanka from 13^th Century.

According to the sources of history, Yapahuwa had been the capital only for a short period but it is nothing short of a glorious royal city. King Buwanekabahu I build his capital city around the majestic Yapahuwa rock rising up to a height of 90m. At the southern base of the rock there is a fortification consisting of inner and outer ramparts with two moats adjoining. Dalada Maligawa and Kings palace complex located in the inner city. Unlike Sigiriya rock fortress, and Dambadeniya, the palace complex is located at the base of the rock and Dalada Maligawa had been built on an elevated platform adjacent to the rock. King Buwanekabahu I brought the sacred Tooth Relic with him from Dambadeniya and placed in this new Dalada Maligawa. The ornamental stairway to reach Dalada Maligawa and its Wahalkada made up of stone remains as the kingdom’s biggest showpiece.

The largest collection of Chinese coins was found in Yapahuwa providing evidence of strong trading relationships with China, specially during the reign of king Buwanekabahu I. Influence of Chinese architecture could be clearly observed in the stone carvings and sculptures associated with the ornamental stairway. The sculpture widely known as “Yapahuwa Lion” is actually considered as a Dragon.

Following the death of King Buwanekabahu I, in 1284 Pandyans once again, attacked Yapahuwa and succeeded in capturing the Tooth Relic and took it to South India.

After King Buwanekabahu I, his son succeeded to the throne as King Parakramabahu III (1284-1293) who was the son of Vijayabahu IV. He was able to bring the Tooth Relic back via establishing diplomatic relationships with the Pandyan kingdom. He was succeeded by King Buwanekabahu II (1293-1302) who was the son of King Buwanekabahu I. He subsequently abandoned Yapahuwa and moved to Kurunegala and build his kingdom.

Genealogy of Kings of Yapahuwa

King Buwanekabahu I          1272-1284               12 Years

King Parakramabhu III        1284-1293               09 Years

(Ruled from Polonnaruwa too)

King Buwanekabahu II         1293-1302               09 Years

(Ruled from both Yapahuwa and Kurunegala. Moved to Kurunegala)

 The journey to 13^th century

Having such a glorious history hidden behind those wonderful creations, it was not easy for me to keep my eyes closed for too long. So my very next “hard earned” holiday after the rail hike with Sri, was devoted without any hesitation for the exploration of Dambadeniya and Yapahuwa.

While Sri Lanka was getting ready for May Day celebrations, we were on the road early in the morning around 3.30 heading towards Yapahuwa. We planned to visit Yapahuwa early in the morning and then come back towards Dambadeniya which is closer to Colombo as it is easy in our return journey.

Road via Narammala is in superb condition and is a treat to drive. As morning rays could be seen after getting close to Mahawa, we looked for a good place to have Breakfast. But most of the restaurants were closed and we could not find a proper place. So, leaving it behind we decided to visit Yapahuwa.

Once we enter from the main gate towards the archaeological site, road runs through the outer rampart and the car park (For light vehicles only) is located in the outer city. Then we have to walk through the gate of the inner rampart to see the ruins of the inner city where Kings palace complex, ornamental stairway and Dalada maligawa are located. The temple (Yapahuwa RMV) which is built for religious activities of ordinary people is also located in the outer city for their easy access as otherwise it will create problems for them  to enter in to the high secured inner city where Kings palace is located.

Proceeding further without entering from the main gate will lead to the Archaeological museum and the main car park located to the right. It is better to visit the museum which is the information centre of the site first and then visit Archaeological site to make the observations more meaningful.

Since we were there early in the morning we could avoid the crowds, freely enjoy the wonderful creations and climb the rock before the sun hits hard.

Click to enlarge

1. Outer moat and rampart
2. Inner moat and rampart
3. Access roads
4. Ruins of the inner city
5. Ornamental stairway
6. Temple of the Tooth Relic
7. Ruins on the rock
8. Bangalapitiya ruins

Access road towards right starts at the main gate. Light vehicles can enter via the western gate of the outer rampart and proceed towards the Yapahuwa RMV. Access road towards left is where main car park and museum is located.

Outer mort and rampart with the western entrance

Another view

Stairs

View of the outer city from the entrance

Inner rampart and its western entrance

Inner rampart connecting to the rock close to western entrance

Inner rampart – view from the inside

Inner rampart with its moat

Foundation of the King’s palace

The construction

Balustrades at the entrance to the palace

Called Raja sabhawa, but not confirmed

Street where Dalada Perahera was used to progress. Stages on either side are for the King, ministers and other elite groups who watch the pageant.

Closer look

First and second stairways to Dalada Maligawa

Second stairway. Raining consists of boxes reducing size towards the top

Angle is 70 degrees and stairs are narrow. In case of an attack, it is not easy for enemies to advance along this stairway. In addition, two people stationed at the top of the stairway would be sufficient to prevent enemies from proceeding towards Dalada Maligawa.

Third stairway and wahalkada, the masterpiece.

Majestic

With the rock

Stone wahalkada.

Master craftsmanship

Elegant door frame

Stone carvings of wahalkada

The window, sewmeduru kauluwa

Top of the window frame

Wahalkada from the back

View from sewmeduru kauluwa. There had been stone grills fixed to the two windows either side. One is available in Yapahuwa museum and the other is kept in the National museum, Colombo.

The stone grill available at Yapahuwa museum. This grill is carved in a way that, if you look at this from the front or from the back, it looks same. Also, circled carved in this has a meaning. It tells that people learn to follow dhamma and make their lives successful and then with time they tend to ignore dhamma and make their lives miserable.

Entrance to Dalada Maligawa

Only foundation is existing

A stone pillar decorated by carvings

sculptures

Looking glorious

Sense of pride

The amazing Yapahuwa Lion (Dragon)

Balustrade stone (Korawak Gala) with Gajasingha sculpture

Another carving

Another

Wamanas(Dwarfs)

Musicians

More of them

Amazing sculptures

Final look

How it was, before restoration (Courtesy-Dept of archaeology)

Towards top of the rock

Views on the way

A cave

Closer to the top

The Stupa

Pond and the Stupa on top

Scenery

Path to heaven?

Its green

View of waduwa ketu gala

What a view

Dead tree art

Holes used to set up pillars of Subha’s mansion

Closer look

The rock

The pond

Paddy art

Stairways and Wahalkada seen from the top

Yapahuwa RMV

Image house

Stone roof with paintings

Buddha image

Paintings

Bodhigara located close to temple

The entrance

On top of the door frame

Where Bo tree had been

Rocks and bricks

Bangalapitiya stupa – towards right by the road about 200m before main gate (If travelling towards Yapahuwa)

Having so much to see, It was close to 11.00 am when we left Yapahuwa and on the way to Mahawa we had a fried rice Brunch (Neither breakfast nor lunch) at a nice place called Shanthi hotel located 2-3km away from Yapahuwa. Food was good and the prices were reasonable.

Then it was the time to look for two iconic landmarks located in the ancient route from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa and no sooner we were in search of Karagahagedara Ambalama.

We went passing Mahawa, Padeniya, Wariyapola, Katupotha and got to Kadahapola junction via B166. From the junction, moving forward about 100-200m towards Narammala on B247, Black archaeological name board could be seen on the right where the by-road named Boraluwala road towards left should be taken. We took this road until a T junction was reached and turned right. From there, on the newly carpeted road, edges are demarcated by white lines. We followed that road where we reached a Y type junction where we turned left following the white lines and after few hundreds of meters, Karagahagedara ambalama could be seen on the left just by the road. This ambalama is well known by the locals around Kadahapola junction and it is easy to get directions. A search of “Karagahagedara ambalama” in Google maps will locate it easily. But the road running near Ambalama is not marked in Google maps.

Directions

What a place to have a rest

seating structure

On stones to prevent mainly termite attacks

Roof structure

Kenimandala

Well fitted

Next destination was a deviation from the theme of our excursion but no doubt, it was a gem embedded in this golden historical land. So without any hesitation this beauty was added to our list, the only waterfall (according to literature) found in Kurunegala District, Wadakada falls. This waterfall is associated with the writings of the famous poet Wadakada Nawaratne.

We came to Narammala and took B247 towards Kurunegala and turned right to B177 towards Wadakada town. Wadakada town is a small bazaar located about 4-5 km away along B177, from the turn off from B247. From the bazaar there is a junction where we had to turn right. After about 1 km there is a small bridge where the stream forming the falls is flowing underneath. Just after the bridge the road bends to right and runs parallel to the stream. After another few hundreds of meters, top of the falls can be seen from the road and there is a short foot path going downhill to reach the base.

View from the top (from the road)

The beauty

Main section

Plunging down

The other section

Downstream

After enjoying the beauty we came back to Narammala with the intention of visiting Panavitiya Ambalama which exhibits a magnificent collection of wood carvings resembling Ambakke Dewalaya.

From Narammala we came towards Dambadeniya along B308 to Metiyagane. After passing Don Bosco, Metiyagane, next turn off towards right should be taken up to Kajugas Handiya, a prominent 3 way junction. At the turn off from B308, archaeological board is available and there is a car audio equipment shop named Randi Motors. Kajugas Handiya Bus stop is marked in Google maps. From the junction we turned left and after 1-2 km Panavitiya Ambalama can be seen on the right hand side inside a land surrounded by a barbed wire fence and a gate. It can be located by searching “Panavitiya ambalama” in Google maps.

Find it…

Entrance and Ambalama

Undergoing some restoration work

Inner structure

Carved wooden pillars

This too is placed on stones

Nicely done

Wonderful structure with carvings

Carving on the collar beam

So fine carvings

Almost every piece of wood is carved

The ridge pole

Unbelievable

Pillar top carvings

Another pillar

Exceptional

A dancer

Angam fighters

Fighters

Gajasingha

Which bird is this?

Flower

Another

After witnessing the glory of Pananvitiya Ambalama, we rushed towards Dambadeniya to visit Maliga gala. Unlike Yapahuwa, kings’ palace complex is located on top of the rock and therefore called Maliga Gala. There is a stone paved stairway to the top.

Palace complex had been constructed by wood and it is no more in existence other than the foundation around the courtyard. There are three ponds on the top. Ancient temple of tooth built by the King Parakramabahu II can be seen in the premises of Wijayasundararamaya. There is an archaeological museum too which we could have visited prior to other activities but at the time it was closed.

Entrance to Dambadeniya arch. site

Steps. These were built recently. Original path starts from another place close by. Land where original path is running is not owned by dept of archaeology. So they have built this path in their own land.

Remaining walls

The stairway. Only one or two persons can proceed at once through the narrow point. This is to reduce the speed of enemy troops proceeding, in case of an attack

Narrowed down

View from the top of the stairway. Stairs towards left running down are the original stairs. Foot path running straight is the one we came.

View from top of the stairs

Paddy

Carved steps

Raja sabawa

Pillar bases

The palace complex

Ma wee pokuna. Evidence for the presence of a shelter is seen

View of the palace from top of the rock

Steps towards Rathmal Pokuna, the largest

Rathmal Pokuna

The path

Mukunuwenna pokuna

View from Mukunuwenna pokuna

View from the rock

Dambadeniya Wijayasunderaramaya

The temple

Dalada maligawa

The structure

Upper floor

Outer wall paintings

Beautiful

From the front

Entrance

The door. This is fixed to door frame without hinges

Handles

Buddha image inside

Roof paintings

Stone altar

Chethiyagharaya, the in house stupa of Wijayasunderaramaya

It was 5.45 p.m. when we decided to call it a day. At the end it was an unforgettable journey ploughing through the history of the glorious royal cities.

The map – click to enlarge

I haven’t been doing any hiking recently and I was starting to see leeches in my dreams too and finally it seemed like my dreams were converting into a reality. Krishani called me and asked for some information of a guide in Thangappuwa to do the Kota ganga trail. I asked her whether I could join them because this hike was in my long list and my request was accepted gladly by Krishani.

We were supposed to meet up at Theldeniya but somehow they were getting late so I decided to head towards Rangala. 3Km’s from Udawela junction there was a name board directing towards a waterfall called Perumal fall. It was stated that there was 6.5km from Udaispattuwa junction to the waterfall. I took the road to Heel oya from Udaispattuwa. Few kilometers along this road I came across a 3 way junction where I took the left turn. The road turned in to one disastrous ride after about 1km. I don’t recommend low ground clearance vehicles on this road at all. At the end of the road where a board directing towards Iskolamuduna, I parked my vehicle and started walking towards the river by foot. After crossing the river I found a foot path which ran uphill along the river. This then started to branch off and I always took the path close to the river and ended up in a land which was been cleared off for plantation. From this land I reached the river and crawled along the boulders to reach this beautiful and unique waterfall. It was like watching an overfilled damn spilling the excess water along the slope. I had to return quickly because I didn’t want to get late.

the path towards Perumal falls

crossed the river to reach this

Perumal – Peruma falls

beauty

and it flows

scenery seen on the way to rangala

From Udaispattuwa it was about 16km’s to Thangappuwa. Though the road was carpeted to Rangala the last stretch of it was in terrible condition. One needs a good ground clearance vehicle to make it to Thangappuwa. At Thangappuwa I met Krishani and her friends and got ready to take off towards Kota ganga. We were bit late so we had to initiate things soon as possible. Luckily Raja our guide had bought tickets from Digana FD office on the previous day. We started climbing uphill through the tea plantation up to the forest cover. The climb through the tea estate was a tough one and it kept our engines boiling continuously. After we entered the forest it was bit relaxing and we did enjoy the walk through the bamboo bushes too.

friendly chaps at thangappuwa

cricket at thangappuwa

initial climb

onlooker

Beru diyanilla

thangappuwa seen after a long up hill hike

thangappuwa

ah flat terrain!

Exacum trinervium

Osbeckia aspera

arched path

Podochilus. sp

At one point we came across Kota ganga where we decided to go down stream to reach the top of the fall. After a 400m walk we reached the top. It was so heavenly that we couldn’t take our eyes off it. I’ll let you enjoy the scenery through my pictures. We had some Roti with dhal and “lunu miris” and started ascending through the forest (right bank) to meet a tiny stream drooling along the wide open plains where one could enjoy the beauty of five peaks of Knuckles. While going downhill along the stream we found the foot path branching towards the left and into the forest which we eventually took. My God it was a hell of a descent. It was a nightmare to think of the return journey at that point. We headed towards the 3^rd fall which is one of the most scenic falls (skipped the first by path to the left) but within few seconds it started to drizzle. We only managed to hang around for few minutes before we started ascending back. We reached the first turn off which we skipped and headed towards the first fall, by this time the showers had started pouring down heavily making our journey a misery. We went very close to the second fall but had to skip it because the descent was too risky. With difficulty we reached the first fall which was trickling downhill calmly 1 hour back. The waterfall had changed into a scary nightmare and it was very difficult to capture it even. I only managed to get one clear shot before we started ascending back. The ascend was worse than a nightmare because rain water was flowing down the steep path. I don’t know how we managed to return back along that path until now.

Somehow we reached the plain which was bit of a relief. The small water stream which was drooling along the rock was now a river and we had to cross it at two locations holding each other’s hands and creating human rope. The whole plain was one soggy marshy land and we did proceed uphill on this until we met the knuckles peak trail. We also found a lost foreigner who was headed towards Kota ganga side and if we didn’t find him he would have been lost in the forest for few days. The guys stated that he had read all the directions in Lakdasun and wanted to do this trail alone. Even local’s don’t do any of these trails all alone. So this guy should be very stupid to attempt such a thing. At Kota ganga cross over we had to create a human chain once again and the lost and found guy didn’t want to join it so he decided to cross it all alone. We witnessed him doing it alone and tripping and falling few time in that attempt. Somehow we managed to get that guy to join us to reach Thangappuwa though he wanted to go to Alugal lena at 4pm. After reaching Thangappuwa we had an icy cold bath and had few Roti from Rajas place before departing from the village. While others returned back to Kandy I decided to spend the night at Theldeniya rest house.

leaf nosed lizzard like a boss

Kota ganga

beyond a branch

Arundina minor

along the river

Pseudophilautus femoralis

top of Kota ganga

wow what a view

the river

looking down

wow

splendid

the plains with knuckles peak covered

more to go

following the stream

before getting in to the forest

getting down

top of the 4th fall

3rd fall

lovely

the drop of 4th

bye bye

after taking 10 shots this was the only clear one i got of the 1st fall

returned back(there were no pics of the toughest hour)

us with raju

toby loved the icy water

It was a Sunday and I was looking forwards for a relaxing day. Early morning as I woke up and opened the curtain there was breathtaking scenery towards Victoria reservoir. What a view to start off the day! Within few minutes I got in to the vehicle ad took off towards Rangala town to take the 3km ride to Kota ganga. This again was a 4wd ride but the scenery was breathtaking and rewarding. I took the road towards Girindi ella (passing the tea factory) and halted close to the end of the road near the bridge. There was a foot path near the bridge which went upstream (left bank) and I followed it to end up in a tea field. From this point it was very easy to have a glimpse of 5^th to 7^th falls of Kota ganga. I was told by the locals that there was a new foot path to the top though Raja said there wasn’t. So if you got some time try and explore the upper 4 falls from the bottom.

morning at theldeniya rest house

fishing

hunnasgiri peak seen from Rangala rd

Hanthana range

hanthana zoomed

bathale gala and ura kanda

gombaniya and yakunge hela

gombaniya zoomed

scenic roads

first glimpse of the full stretch of kota ganga fall

calm and quiet cota ganga

surrounding at cotta ganaga

7th fall

another view of 7th fall

6th fall

lovely 5th fall

close up

one could note the top 5 cascades

we were there

cascade of kota ganga

bus halt

view towards alagalla

made some new friends

Rangala

From Kota ganga I took off towards Thangappuwa where I had some frequent stops to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. This road provides a wide scope because it’s located on the southern reaches of Knuckles forest range. Just before Thangappuwa (after passing the school) there was a road to the right and there was a house. The owner directed me towards a waterfall which was formed by a stream which was flowing behind the house. Raja also mentioned about this cascade so I decided to have a go. And yes it was a beautiful cascade which I named Thangappuwa falls.

scenic Rangala rd

adams peak

plenty of tea

beautiful road

dried out victoria reservoir

reaching thangappuwa

not a selfie :-P

the stream which goes behind this house forms a waterfall

mini cascades

a stone sucker

another one which i came across down stream

and then this one

base

lovely

ah a river crossing

slow shutter

best bathing spot

Ferdale

From here I reached Thangappuwa and took the 4km 4wd road to Cobert’s gap which was a ride in heaven for me. I met no human and it was so peaceful. All alone through the mountain forest was one unique experience I really enjoyed. It was so heavenly until I reached cobert’s gap which was packed with many vehicles. I only hanged around few minutes because the place was too overcrowded and headed towards Hunnasgiriya to end my day. Ah and I didn’t forget to have some frequent stops to enjoy the breathtaking scenery.

starting to ride through the lonely forest

wow

tall trees

it was all about both of us

heavenly

over the bushes

colourful

LOVELY PATH

wow	sora bora seen over balalgira

hetakatuwegala

at attalamuttuwa

sphinx rock

knuckles

lakegala

view from the gap

namunukula and narangala

dothalugala

towards meemure

scenic

:-)	at deanston

towards ulhitiya

kokagala and friars hood

yahangala and kehelpathdoruwa

Rathnapura-Wewalwaththa-Balangoda road is 43km in distance and you can enjoy 13+ waterfalls in one day. This is my experience of waterfall hunting along this road. Enjoy it.

You can view following waterfalls along this road (order from Rathnapura to Balangoda)

1. Anda Ella falls
2. Goxin Falls
3. Pareyyian Falls
4. Katukithul Falls
5. Hal Ella Falls
6. Dehena Ella
7. Madanagiri Falls
8. Pandi Oya Ella Falls
9. Wewal Falls
10. Alupola Ella
11. Beruwaththa Ella
12. Unnamed waterfall
13. Madde Kanda Falls
14. Polwaththa Amuna Ella

We started the journey around 8.30am from Rathnapura and our first visit was Anda Ella falls.

Anda Ella Falls ආදා ඇල්ල

This 15m tall waterfall will come across at Galabada area. Waterfall is barely visible to the main road. You can get the foot pathway immediately before the bridge and walk up along the stream to reach it.

Direction towards the waterfall

Anda Ella Falls

Anda Ella Falls

Anda Ella Falls

Our next target was Goksin falls and Pareyyian falls at Halakanda area.

Goxin Falls ගොක්සිo ඇල්ල

Rathganga River makes this 50m tall waterfall at Halakanda (හැලකද) village. The British planter-Goxin was used to have aquatic sports at this waterfall to give this English name to the waterfall. It flows into a deep pool and it’s depth is not known. There were number of deaths happened here by falling down from the waterfall. Therefore villagers are scared to roam around the waterfall.

We turned from Nugepola (නුගේපොල) to get Dehenakanda (දෙහෙනකන්ද) road (this is the road to go to Sri Pada from Mukkuwaththa ) and got the turn at Kambiadiya (කම්බිඅඩිය) to reach Halakanda village. (There is a board mentioning Halakanda Vidyalaya at this turning point). After travel about 3km along this gravel road you will come across a bridge. Goxin falls is just below the bridge.

There is a foot pathway in it’s right hand side to reach the base. Fortunately there were two villagers to show us this foot pathway.

The bridge over Rathganga-රත්ගග

On top of Goxin Falls

Goxin falls and it’s base pool

Goxin Falls

Pareyyian Falls-පරෙයියන් ඇල්ල

Rathganga makes this beautiful waterfall after about 50m following Goxin falls. We continued the road through Halakanda village and got left hand turn to the village temple. After meeting chief priest of the temple we headed towards Pareyyian Falls.

There is a cement foot steps towards Rathganga there. They have built a nice “Kutiya-කුටිය” closer to the waterfall.

According to the chief priest there is a huge natural cave closer to the waterfall which can accommodate around 1500 people once. Then he mentioned about a drawing of a pigeon at the wall of the cave.

We didn’t attempt to reach the cave due to slippery rocks following rain.

Pareyyian Falls is about 20m tall.

Pareyyian Falls –For me it is like a pigeon

Pareyyian falls and it’s base pool

Pareyyian Falls

Pareyyian Falls and it’s natural cave

“Kutiya” facing Rathganga

According to the villager who showed the foot pathway to get down to Goxin falls, there is another waterfall about 1km above Goxin falls. It is called Uthurupath Ella. (උතුරුපත් ඇල්ල) But we didn’t try to go there.

We spent a lot of time on Goxin and Pareyyian falls and rushed back to Wewalwaththa road. Next three cascades were road side: Katu Kithul Ella, Hal Ella and Dehena Ella.

Katu Kithul Ella-කටුකිතුල් ඇල්ල

This 15m tall road side cascade will come across at Amunathanna (අමුණතැන්න) area. We have noticed thorny Palmyra trees around the upper part of the fall.

Two in 1. Katu Kithul Ella and Hal Ella

Katu Kithul Ella

Hal Ella Falls-හල් ඇල්ල

This 7m tall 12m wide road side cascade is found at Amunathanna area immediately next to Katu Kithul Falls. According to literature, there are some Hal trees at upper part of the waterfall to give this name.

Just before Katu Kithul Ella, there is a water stream flows towards the road. This is actually not a waterfall.

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Water stream can be misunderstood as waterfall

Dehena Falls-දෙහෙන ඇල්ල

After few turns from Kate Kithul Falls and Hal Falls we came across this tall beauty at 25^th km post. Dehena Falls is another road side cascade. Dehena Dola (දෙහෙන දොල) forms this 73m tall beautiful fall. During rainy season it will drizzle towards the vehicles on the road.

Distance view of Dehena Falls

Dehena Falls

Dehena Falls-closer view

Dehena Falls

Madanagiri and Pandi Oya Ella falls (මදනගිරි ඇල්ල හා පාඩි ඔය ඇල්ල)

Madanagiri and Pandi Oya Ella falls are situated close to each other and formed by Pandi Oya.

It is difficult to reach these waterfalls as you have to go up along Pandi Oya (පාඩි ඔය).

Both waterfalls can be seen from main road after you pass Pandi Oya.

Madanagiri Ella has 68m height and Pandi Oya Falls 45m is tall.

People are bathing at Pandi Oya

Madanagiri Falls (left hand side) and Pandi Oya Falls (right hand side)

Madanagiri Falls

Pandi Oya Falls

After passing these two cascades we got right hand turn at Diya Bibila (දිය බිබිල) junction to view Wewal Ella falls.

Wewal Ella Falls-වේවැල් ඇල්ල

This 15m tall and 24m wide waterfall is formed by Wewal Dola (වේවැල් දොළ). As there were ample of Wewal trees around the waterfall in those days, it was called Wewal Falls.

We drove along Batewela (බටේවෙල) road and asked about the waterfall from villagers at Waligoda (වැලිගොඩ) junction. They didn’t know a waterfall of that kind of name but directed us to a waterfall just below a bathing place at Wewal Dola. We drove back and reached that bathing place. But that small waterfall didn’t tally with our description.

A boy who was there told us about another waterfall at upstream of Wewal Dola. We crossed Wewal Dola and walked about 500m towards upstream through thick Mana bushes to reach the waterfall, might be correct Wewal Ella Falls.

It had low water level and it flowed under a bridge.

Crossing the stream to follow the foot pathway

Wewal Ella Falls

Wewal Ella Falls

Wewal Ella Falls

Wewal Ella Falls-Upper part

Wewal Ella Falls with it’s base pool

Wewal Ella Falls and it’s base pool

It was around 2pm and we came back to main road and drove towards Wewalwaththa junction. On our way we inquired about Bambarabotuwa waterfall (බඹරබොටුව ඇල්ල) which is situated behind Bambarabotuwa church. Nobody knew such a waterfall. But there might be a waterfall as we noticed few water streams drooling from the mountain which is situated behind the church.

Note the water streams drooling from the rock.

After having late lunch from Wewalwaththa junction (though it was a small town, had lunch at 2.30pm) we turned towards Alupola Estate road to reach famous Alupola Ella.

Alupola Ella-අලුපොල ඇල්ල

This 68m tall waterfall is situated at Alupola estate. Alupola Falls is formed by the water stream driven from Bathurugala (බතුරුගල) Mountain.

Alupola Falls.

Alupola Falls

Alupola Ella –Upper part

Alupola Ella-Upper part

Alupola Ella with it’s all parts

After climbing most lower part of Alupola Falls

Our next target was another famous waterfall called Beruwaththa Falls. You can continue along the road following Alupola waterfall or can come back to Wewalwaththa to reach Beruwaththa Falls. Either ways you have to join with Wewalwaththa-Balangoda road and driver further. But there are no board indicating the foot pathway to Beruwaththa Falls. It is in between 1km-2km posts. (Kilometer posts now starting from Wewalwaththa Town towards Balangoda).

View of Beruwaththa Falls from Alupola Estate. This can be view from several places.

Beruwaththa Falls-බේරුවත්ත ඇල්ල

Beruwaththa Falls is 50m in height and is formed by water streams origin from Rakshagala (රාක්ෂගල) Mountain. The water from Beruwaththa Falls later joined with Alupola Dola (අලුපොල දොල) and Ravula Dola (රැවුල දොල). Finally it joins with the longest River of Sri Lanka-Mahaweli River.

This is the land mark to get the turn to Beruwaththa Falls. There is a foot pathway immediate next to this house.

Heading to Beruwaththa Falls

The Beauty

Beruwaththa falls with it’s base pool

Beruwaththa Falls

Companions of the journey

We continued along Balangoda road and came across another beautiful waterfall after 3-4kms following Beruwaththa falls. It was about 15m tall and we could notice another one just above it. We stopped there for snapping and Dethanagala (දෙතනගල) was clearly visible from there.

Road winds around the waterfall

She is the beauty. Don’t know the name.

It seems to be a bathing place

Closer view

Dethanagala

It was time around 6pm and there were two waterfalls to be completed my list. We rushed towards Balangoda and stopped at Meddekanda junction. Meddekanda Falls is clearly visible at Meddekanda Junction.

Meddekanda Falls (මැද්දේකන්ද ඇල්ල)

There was a road in front of the school lane at Meddekanda junction. We drove along that and turned to first left hand side road. Then turned to first right hand side road and went till road ends. From there we followed the foot pathway parallel to the water canal and reached the base of the waterfall through mana bushes. It was a beautiful waterfall but we didn’t have much time to enjoy it as it was almost 7pm.

Meddekanda waterfall is 18m tall and earlier was used to bath elephants, called Ali Wala Ella (අලි වල ඇල්ල).

View of Meddekanda Falls from Meddekanda junction.

Meddekanda Falls

Meddekanda falls with it’s base pool

Meddekanda Falls-photographs are not much clear as surrounding was dark

Closer view of Meddekanda Falls

As it was not a good time to visit waterfalls we abounded our next plan and headed towards Balangoda. Our next day was allocated to Balangoda-Hatton road. At the end of that day we again came along Balangoda-Wewalwaththa road to finish our previous day targets. Last one was Polwaththa Amuna Ella.

Polwaththa Amuna Ella (පොල්වත්ත අමුණ ඇල්ල)

I got to know about this waterfall by amazing Lanka. This is situated at Bulathgama (බුලත්ගම) area in Balangoda-Wewalwaththa road (about 4-5kms from Balangoda town). Then we drove along the Vidyala Mawatha about 1km till we come across an area of paddy fields. We stopped there and got the help of a villager to reach this waterfall.

We had to go across the paddy fields (on “Niyara- නියර”) to reach this waterfall. But we only could grab the fainted view of waterfall as there was further walking through a tea patch to reach the waterfall. As my friend was hurry to go home I gave up that idea.

As it is situated in Polwaththa Amuna, it is called Polwaththa Amuna Ella. Not Amuran Ella. For my view, it is about 20m tall waterfall.

The way on paddy fields…Dethanagala is in back drop.

Somewhere down the main waterfall. This is kind of a bathing place

Distance view of Polwaththa Amuna Ella

Fainted view of Polwaththa Amuna Ella

Motor bike for the journey

Have a safe journey

The long weekend at the end of July was long awaited as it’s the only long weekend for 2015 until Christmas. We planned a train trip to up-country with cousins, an annual event during August school holidays.

However for the 31^st the train was fully booked so we had to reserve the train for the 30^th – which gave us a bonus day to enjoy the cool climes.

Podi Menike left Fort Railway station sharp on time and we enjoyed the new A/C carriage – similar to the carriages in the AC Express to Jaffna – with adjustable seats, TV etc.

The winding journey through lush green mountains was enjoyable and relaxing. We had our lunch (brought from home) in the train.  Finally the train reached Bandarawela around 3pm and we had our chauffer for the next three days waiting at the station to welcome us. His van can comfortably accommodate 10 adults.( with kids 12-13). (Samantha – 0779580177)

We bought all necessary provisions at Bandarawela Food City and headed towards our resting place, Public Administration Circuit Bungalows at Bindunuwewa – about 5km away. There are two identical large bungalows, each comprising of three bedrooms with three bathrooms and accommodates 7 in each bungalow. The bungalows are well maintained and have been recently renovated.  All six bathrooms had instant hot water showers. Both bungalows are managed by a single bungalow keeper and he prepares the meals as well. Reservation can be done through Ministry of Public Administration and is open only to public servants.

Enjoying the train journey

We relaxed with a cup of tea and then decided to visit Dova Rajamaha Viharaya about 4 kms away. It is an ancient cave temple adorned with colourful murals and dates back to King Walagamba’s time. The Buddha statue carved into a rock reminds the ruins at Buduruwagala – not too far away. Inside the cave temple is very cool and one can enjoy the fading away murals for hours.

Dova Rajamaha Viharaya

Murals inside the caves

We returned to the bungalow past 7pm and after a delicious meal of noodles, chicken curry and dhal called it a day.

Day 2:

The next morning by 8.30 we had finished our breakfast of milk-rice and headed towards Badulla in the van as we wanted to visit Dunhinda first. Tackling the downhill road with so many barriers was not an easy task with grandmas, grandpas and little ones. But we all made it down to see the Queen of Waterfalls – Dunhinda.  She was breathtaking as always and the tiredness was washed away just by seeing her. Finally it was almost noon when everyone climbed up taking their own time.

Dunhinda

Kuda Dunhainda at a distance

The next destination was Muthiyangana Raja Maha Viharaya in the heart of the town. It wasn’t the ideal time to visit a temple – scorching in the hot sun – but we had no option. The temple was filled with devotees and those who have observed sill and we worshiped without disturbing them.

We bought lunch packets from Ja-Ela Hotel and headed towards Demodara. Bogoda bridge off Hali-Ela was in our to-do list but the driver said that the road is in a very bad state so had it give that up.

We then visited the Demodara Railway Station and with the permission of the Station Master we had our lunch there. It is a well-maintained station with drinking water and clean toilet facilities. As there were no trains for quite some time we decided to do a hike along the legendary “loop” and it turned out to be quite a distance going all the way round the hill and through the tunnel and finally coming out near the “Black bridge”.

Along the loop

Into tunnel No: 42

On Black bridge

At Demodara station

We would have liked to see a train going through the loop but the next train was scheduled at 3.30 which was quite late.  So we decided to start our journey and the next attraction was the Nine Arch Bridge.

Last year we walked up the bridge from Ella Station but we did not mind seeing this great architectural marvel again. The turn-off is at Halpe and the road is in a pretty bad shape and you have to walk the final bit to reach the railway line and the bridge.

Nine-Arch Bridge

On our way back we turned off at Kumbalwella towards Ella and headed towards Ravana Ella. Suddenly it started raining changing the entire landscape. We wanted to visit Ravana Caves but

had to give up the idea.  Finally when we reached Ravana Ella the rain had reduced to a drizzle and all got down to enjoy the road-side beauty.

Ravana Ella

We had tea from a nearby boutique and started our return journey. The sudden shower had revived Ella and the mountains along the road looked very fresh and green after the sudden shower.

Ella

It was past 6.30 when we reached the bungalow and we were welcomed by a warm cup of coffee.  Later we enjoyed a delicious meal of rice and curry for dinner.

Day 3:

We had the van waiting for us by 8am and we hurried after breakfast as we wanted to reach Lipton Seat before mist. From Bandarawela the road to Lipton Seat is via Nayabedda, which I would say is more scenic than the Damabethenna route from Haputale.

We had to buy tickets for the vehicle when we entered the Nayadedda Estate as we would be using estate roads to reach LS. But its worth the money as the road all the way up to LS is in a very good condition. We were fortunate as the weather was very clear and all the way up to LS we were enjoying the breathtaking views of endless mountains.

Endless views

Nayabedda Tower

We spent quite some time at LS trying to figure out the distant landscapes all around.  It was a very clear day and it was my first clear view from LS.

Clear sky and breathtaking views

At Lipton Seat

We came down via Dambetenna to Haputale enjoying the scenic beauty. Our next destination was Adisham Monestry.  It being a long weekend there was a string of vehicles along that narrow road and we abandoned the idea as we did not want to be stuck in traffic for hours while in Haputale as well.

We decided to make the return journey via Diayathalawa as that route is more scenic. We stopped near the pine forest and the kids had a grand time in the pine forest.

We reached the bungalow around 1.30 and enjoyed a sumptuous meal and decided to have a relaxing afternoon in the bungalow.  It rained heavily in the evening and we were glad that we did not have any plans for that evening.

Day 4:

Since our return journey was planned by the night-mail train we had the whole day to spare. We had planned to visit Ambewela and return by the 3.30 train which would reach Bandarawela by 5.00 pm giving us enough time to get ready for the night mail which would leave Bandarawela by 7.30pm.

We left the bungalow after breakfast and caught the 9.55 train towards Colombo.  It’s the Udarata Menike leaving Badulla at 8.30am and was packed since it’s the last day of the long week-end.  However we enjoyed the journey with endless tunnels and got off at Pattipola by 11.30.

Since the kids were eager on a railway hike we decided to walk from Pattipola to Ambewela which we missed in our last trip. (Ambewela – the Little New Zealand – and Along the Railway Track to Ohiya) We told grandmas and grandpas to get off at Ambewela and the rest walked the 3.5km from Pattipola to Ambewela. Though it has nothing much to offer – except the vegetable beds on either side – the kids enjoyed the walk and we had nothing to fear as the next train on the line was scheduled for 1.05pm.

Rail hike

Ma rath Mal in bloom

We hired three-wheelers from Ambewela Station and headed towards the New Zealand Farm enjoying the landscape. Farm was packed with people and we rested while the children ran from shed to shed enjoying the animals. We had brought our lunch and enjoyed it at the farm.

We called back the three-wheelers and started our return journey around 3pm as we had to catch the 3.30 train to Bandarawela. However when we reached the station we got to know that the 1.15 train has still not come due to some accident and it will be coming shortly.  It was packed as crowds waiting for the next train too had got in but we enjoyed yet another journey passing so many tunnels.

At New Zealand farm

We reached the bungalow around 4.30 and got ready for the return journey.  We had an early dinner of string hoppers and reached the station by 7.

The night-mail train reached the station around 8 and we settled in our sleeperates for the return journey.  However it was the first time I enjoyed the breathtaking night view of the passing cities – Bandarawela, Haputale & Diyathalawa basking in the moonlight looked magical.

We reached Fort RS by 5.30am and called “Kangaroos” to take us home. We reached home by 6am tired but with our hearts filled with pleasant memories.

Thanks for reading!

The map(we took the opposite route shown by the arrows) – click to enlarge

Previously I did hike from Kalupahana to Ohiya on foot and I wanted to do this on my jeep but I never planned to attempt this in 2015. All started when my friend Dharshana called me and said “machan must go somewhere because I haven’t been anywhere in 8 months”. He had been stuck with his PG degree so was desperate and this was the main reason why we did this plus Amila also joined us on the last moment. We planned to descend because that would be easy for everyone to return back to their desired destinations. The whole ride took 3 ½ hours and we also had a dip on top of Lanka ella to refresh ourselves. The lunch was prepared at Bambarakanda Holiday resort. This would be a picture report so enjoy it and drive safe..

Winding roads at ohiya

Elephant foot

starting point

violet beauty

Udaweria factory to be restored

misty hill country

old direction board

view towards A4 from the factory

A4 zoomed

to be renovated

white beauty

that lovely bunch

African lily

more

captured by amila

icy cold

tall trees

better than the rest of the road

seen on a light post

rough map

ascending devils stair way

crossing the gap

ah they got some chocolates

mountain forest

it was misty

antique

view towards Udawalawe

unique

kichi kichi delica

hard life

faces

i love these

ah a clear view

towards kuragala

wow

scenic

a silent day

siblings

gommolliya covered

my beast

glimpse of lanka ella

lovely

this was a dream

Thanks Amila de Silva for the pic

Yahalatenna was lovely

V cut

ah the road was well paved from here onwards

kalthota plains

extremely dry August

trail to lanka ella

heaven

scenic

where we had a bath

standing tall

looking back and saying good bye

Hi there, hope everything is well with you. Now that you’ve read the title of this article, there’s no point in me trying to beat about the bush in a vain attempt to surprise you. I guess you’ve already see the video journey of this as well so let’s get straight into business, shall we? If you’ve clicked on the link given on Ulex, you might have a fair idea as to what it really is. It’s believed that this was introduced by the English or rather Scottish during the colonial period around 1800s as an ornamental plant in their gardens in and around Nuwara Eliya. After some time this got spread into Horton Plains, of course after Samuel Baker had killed all the elephants in the area.

Let me quote Wikipedia for what Ulex is just to give a brief introduction what it really is.

“Ulex (gorse, furze or whin) is a genus of flowering plants in the family Fabaceae. The genus comprises about 20 species of thorny evergreen shrubs in the subfamily Faboideae of the pea family Fabaceae. The species are native to parts of Western Europe and northwest Africa, with the majority of species in Iberia.

Gorse is closely related to the brooms, and like them, has green stems and very small leaves and is adapted to dry growing conditions. However it differs in its extreme thorniness, the shoots being modified into branched thorns 1–4 centimeters (0.39–1.57 in) long, which almost wholly replace the leaves as the plant’s functioning photosynthetic organs. The leaves of young plants are trifoliate, but in mature plants they are reduced to scales or small spines. All the species have yellow flowers, generally showy, some with a very long flowering season.

The most widely familiar species is common gorse (Ulex europaeus), the only species native to much of western Europe, where it grows in sunny sites, usually on dry, sandy soils. It is also the largest species, reaching 2–3 meters (7–10 ft) in height; this compares with typically 20–40 centimetres (7.9–15.7 in) for Western Gorse (Ulex gallii). This latter species is characteristic of highly exposed Atlantic coastal heathland and montane habitats. In the eastern part of Great Britain, dwarf furze (Ulex minor) replaces western gorse. Ulex minor grows only about 30 centimeters (12 in) tall, a habit characteristic of sandy lowland heathland.

Common gorse flowers a little in late autumn and through the winter, coming into flower most strongly in spring. Western Gorse and Dwarf Furze flower in late summer (August-September in Ireland and Great Britain). Between the different species, some gorse is almost always in flower, hence the old country phrase: “When gorse is out of blossom, kissing’s out of fashion”. Gorse flowers have a distinctive coconut scent, experienced very strongly by some individuals, but weakly by others.

Common gorse is also an invasive species in the montane grasslands of Horton Plains National Park in Sri Lanka.”

Ok, hope you’ve got a better idea now. Right, it’s been a great threat for the Horton Plains ever since it got mixed up with the flora and fauna of HP. When I visited HP in 2000 (since then 21 times to date), there was no sign of Ulex even though I had no idea about its name the look of it must’ve made a big impression had it been there in abundance. However I first noticed this after about 5 years and since then heard that there were groups doing projects to control its growth to no avail as there was no consistency in those projects.

I’m sure you might have come across theories by many pundits claiming the usefulness of Ulex in many of their theories. Most of these pundits (as Ana rightly put armchair critics) haven’t even been to HP to see the real danger posed by the Ulex. It was as if fighting the terrorists from AC rooms in Colombo. The biggest theory is that Rhino Horned Lizards take shelter in these plants and nest in them. Well how did they survive before these were introduced? HP is not the only place where they live so how do they survive where there is no Ulex? Why the wildlife department is so anxious to get rid of them if they were that useful? So we decided to leave all the theories behind and take some action instead. As Sash rightly put in the forum under the Video Journey, “It’s better to light a single candle than blaming the dark” which is exactly what we had in mind.

It was during one of those casual chit-chats that this idea of doing something about Ulex came up. By then I had climbed Kirigalpoththa 3 times (KGP) within 18 months and had seen the fast and furious spread of Ulex covering the path at many places. So Ana as usual spotted the benefit this would give to the HP and pursued it further exploring ideas. Finally after a few dozen emails and hours of phone conversations we managed to find the best possible way.

Before everything else, Ana and Dr. D went to DWL (Department of Wildlife) office to present our proposal and get their approval. Our proposal was received with positive attitude and was given the green light to go ahead. We received the approval in black and white and managed to find our lodgings in the good old Anderson Lodge aka Ginihiriya Bungalow. Ana managed to stay up till midnight and book the place despite that particular time was a busy and long weekend. The dates were fixed on 31 Jul to 02 Aug. the group consisted of 9 people (after a lot of shuffling) which I’ve mentioned above. We had to take two vehicles and used Ana’s SUV and Atha’s car and were all set for an early departure on the Esala Full Moon Poya Day.

Day 1

As usual we left at 3am and drove towards Hatton. I was with Atha, Prasa and Sachi in the lead vehicle while Ana and the others trailed us about 15 minutes behind. The roads were empty except for a vehicle or two that were carrying the enthusiastic travellers to their holiday destinations. However the Sri Lankan tourists don’t even bother hitting the road till late in the morning. The dawn arrived slowly when we reached Hatton but we didn’t stop for a break. Even the beauty of Devon or the sorrow look of St. Claire couldn’t yield enough strength for us to pull over.

Mobile phones kept us in contact and we drove through Nanu Oya and Meepilimana before arriving at the Kande Ela. This was our rendezvous point for breakfast. While Ana and the gang were coming, we used the time for a comfy break and enjoy the breath-taking scenery unfolding before our eyes. Morning air revived our parched lungs having been battered by the poisonous fumes in Colombo. My tummy was growling signaling he couldn’t wait any longer for breakfast but we had very little choice but to wait for Ana.

Finally they arrived and we busily unloaded the buttered sliced bread, homemade fish cutlets and boiled eggs with salt and pepper. As the first mouthful of bread, cutlet and eggs hit the tummy, it stopped complaining and started giggling like a school girl. Ok, while we savor our delicious and sumptuous breakfast, you could enjoy some pictures. Here they are:

Good Morning!

Reflection on the placid water

Not sure if they use it

Can see the newly built FD Bungalow among the trees

With a steaming cup of coffee

After a strong cup of instant coffee, we resumed our journey. By now the sun was up and about we could enjoy the lush greenery of the Ambewela farm and surrounding. Windmills of the Ambewela farm kept circling in a slow pace generating more clean energy for the national grid. If only we could harvest the energy generated from the wind, sea waves and the sun, there wouldn’t be any need for killing the beautiful waterfalls, dangerous atomic power or harmful burning of coals and fossil fuels. If only the super powers put in more resources to experiment on them than arming with more nuclear missiles for the so-called WWIII. I know it’s just wishful thinking but I’m not gonna stop dreaming all the same.

Passing Ambewela and Pattipola stations which have given us sweet memories, we entered the forestry road towards HP. Still the road was pretty much isolated saying two things. The first that those who wanted to see the true beauty (I can safely say almost all of them are foreigners) of the morning had already reached the HP and the later comers are still struggling to get up from their warm beds (almost all of them are Sri Lankans). We reached the gate and went into to buy the tickets for our vehicles.

No vehicles?

From the ticket counter

The concrete slab path

Tiny pond off the entrance

Oh, me

The road to the heaven

Afterwards we met the park warden at the gate and went into talk to him. Unfortunately neither us nor Wildlife HQ forgot to inform the HP park that we were coming despite having granted permission in black and white. We were of course not aware of the fact that we had to inform them and were under the impression a copy of the permission would’ve been sent to HP. Well we should’ve anticipated the typical government work pattern and found the park warden was not expecting us. He said that only a fraction of the number of groups that offer to come clear the Ulex turn up so they’re kind of skeptical and wary of such requests. Again typical habits of our fellow countrymen. He said he could’ve arranged a few of the workers in advance as this was a busy weekend and the HP is usually bustling with tourists both local and foreign during weekends especially at long ones. We were inexperienced gardeners to be honest and couldn’t remember when we used one of the gardening tools so it required a bit of getting used to as well. To make matters worse, Ulex has these vicious thorns that rip at your flesh so we need to learn how to get at them without injuring ourselves as well.

We felt a pang of disappointment go over us but the park warden asked us to go report to the Farr Inn and find what we could do. So with very little hope we reached the Farr Inn and met our initial contact person, Sameera the assistant park warden. There were hundreds of vehicles already parked and we had a tough time finding parking but Sameera allowed us use their official car park. He welcomes us warmly and promised to allocate one of the rangers and two workers. Finally some good news so we got ourselves organized wearing long-sleeved t-shirts and cargo pants to protect us from the prickly thorns and used hat to shield from the sun. Most importantly Atha had brought thick gloves to use which came in real handy. We got together and marched towards the site where we were to combat these detrimental invasive plants.

Towards Thotupola

Side of the Farr Inn where they’ve opened a new cafe to cater for the overwhelming crowd

The team

Closer look

Off they go

Sameera is next to Tony

Grasslands

Pointed peak is the KGP

Where the trail to KGP starts and we had to clear the left flank

Just look at that invasion by Ulex

We are getting ready

Ok, let’s get sorted

Attacking the Ulex

We were given the left flank of the trailhead towards KGP to clear and chose a stretch about 60-70ft long and decided to go deep into the forest clearing them. We had a couple of machetes to hack the branches, long-handled Kethi to get at the base of the plant from a safe distance and spikes to remove the roots. We then used the rakes to collect and put the branches away. Everyone got their own job and we were asked by the ranger Harsha to pile them up on the right flank of the trail to for them to wither so that their workers can easily remove them. There are no leaves in Ulex but thorns. It’s full of green thorns and there’s a beautiful yellow flower. A plant can grow as tall as 6-8 feet and is a thick gorse bush with a diameter as large as 12ft in some cases. There’s no room for any other plant especially the grass which is favored by the Sambar.

You’ll surprise at the number of invasive plants in HP. Did you know that beautiful red flowers known as “Ashoka” plants are an invasive species? We didn’t and there are other plants such as “Maha Bovitiya” with a gorgeous purple flower and “Butter Cup” with that tiny yellow flower. Even the tiny plant with a beautiful white flower known as “Sudu Binara” is also an invasive plant. I took a picture of it during my last hike to KGP last April. It’s not all and there’s another fern like plant known as “Werella” which is the second largest invasive species found at HP after Ulex. Even the thick bushy grass found on the open plains is an invasive species and it grows so fast over the tiny green grass eaten by the Sambar reducing their grazing lands.

“Oh my gosh, then what’s left of HP if we discount these invasive plants?” is sure to be your question and it was mine too. There had been no or very little conservation efforts at our national parks allowing them to be grabbed by these invasive plants and the situation has become critical and done an irreparable damage already. So we need to act and act fast before they are fully covered with these useless invasive plants killing all the endemic plants and wildlife. Not only that, we’ll soon run out of the water sources at this rate as many of these invasive plants use a large volume of water. HP is one if not the largest of the catchment area of Sri Lanka that feed many rivers constantly throughout the year. We need to protect it like our eyes and lives.

Ok, now my team is busily hacking at the Ulex with the help of Harsha, one of the rangers and two workers Kannan and Naga. Even Sameera came in and helped clear some of the bushes despite his busy schedule at the office. He said that there are over 600 vehicles coming to HP at busy days and one day they’d recorded more than 700. That’s a lot of them and I wonder if the HP can withstand that much abuse from them. Tony teamed up with Atha and Kannan and got things going while Sheham, Harsha and Saching started in the middle while Prasa, Pritz and Naga started proceedings from the end. Ana, D and I kept helping clear the cut and uprooted plants and pile them on the right flank. Ok here are some pictures for you.

Getting geared up

Final instructions

What we have to destroy

Got some nice flowers as well

There closer look but look at those vicious thorns

Seedlings that spread it around

Off they go

The first one

With the prize, a huge gorse bush

The others, already the first line of defense gone

Thick gloves protecting from the fiery thorns

Digging deep for the roots

After about an hour and a half, we stopped for a tea break. None of us had used a gardening tool in the recent past so it was like an alien experience for us. Fortunately the gloves kept us from getting boils in our palms. Nevertheless the Ulex thorns managed to penetrate our clothing and gloves and prick us every now and then making us wince with pain. Our fingers and hands are better at tapping away at computers rather than hacking away at rugged plants such as Ulex. We soon got the hang of the techniques employed by Naga and Kannan and cleared quite a large area. You need to have long handled Kethi and attacked at the base of the trunk from a safe distance and cut it and fell the tree. Then comes the clearing crew and take the tree from the trunk or use a rake to drag it way. Sometimes you have to cut the branches first before getting at the base.

Then we used spikes to get at the roots. Ulex has a very complex set of roots spreading all over and it took a tedious effort to get them off the earth further reducing its regrowth capabilities. After a short tea break and a bit of chit chat we got back on the job. The sun made it real tough for us and we had to take constant breaks. Naga and Kannan were unfazed by the unforgiving conditions and kept on going. Here are some more pictures.

Checking the sharpness and ready for tea

Trying to rob the tea

Much needed break

Ok, back to work

Getting at the base

Can you see the edge is free of Ulex now?

Tony and Kannan, a good combination

Here close up of them digging up the roots

After about another one and half hour we stopped work for the day. We had gone about 15ft into the forest and had cleared a considerably larger area. We realized the difference of the look comparing before and after the clearing. Feeling happy we stocked our equipment in the storage and bid farewell to our friends and Sameera promising to get back on the following day at 7am. The circular trail was full of people and the car park was extended along the roads of Pattipola and Ohiya with a long line parked either side. We had a tough time getting out of the parking lot and managed to get on the road. Unlike Pattipola road, Ohiya was very calm and had very few vehicles. Pattipola looked busier than the 4-lane Galle Road. This was heading for a major issue that I can tell you for free.

What a difference from the morning?

Sachin, the one-man group

Pritz doing the clean up

Prasa and Naga chopping up

The pile is getting bigger

Trying to send it over the midwicket boundary

Bones of a Sambar

Kept going

Not a branch was left

That spike was very heavy to handle

They kept going in towards the forest patch

Another prize for Pritz

Water break before the end of work

Done for the day

Tony showing the clearing we’ve made

There goes Ana

Weary faces

Getting back

Here we go

After about 3-4 hours labor

KGP in the distance saying “Thank you”

Pritz and D