Year and Month |
30 Aug, 2014 |
Number of Days |
1 |
Crew |
Tony and Me |
Accommodation |
N/A |
Transport |
By Train |
Activities |
Rail Hiking, Photography, Archaeology, etc… |
Weather |
Excellent with a 5-minute shower… |
Route |
Maharagama->Fort->Kadugannawa->Balana->Ihala Kotte->Kadigamuwa->Rambukkana->Fort->Maharagama |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
-
- Check my Rail Hike Stage – 06 here.
- Always keep the railway time table with you. You could get it from the Railway Website or keep checking while you’re walking at every station.
- Carry water and some snacks even though there’s water available at stations on the way and we noted few shops where you can enjoy a snack.
- Talking to the station masters, linesmen, and villagers will help you get very important information, see some great places and listen to wonderful stories but do so very carefully.
- Carry a torch as this bit has very long and pitch black tunnels. It has the second longest tunnel after Singamale in Hatton. It’s called Meeyangalla Tunnel, No. 5A.
- New S12 trains are very silent compared to her old German, Dutch and Canadian counterparts so always be vigilant of some unexpected arrivals.
- When you’re walking through tunnels, keep an eye out of manholes in case a train appears (as most of the time they don’t come on time) you could stay there safely.
- Don’t litter or harm the Mother Nature. Bring back only the memories and pictures.
- Special Thanks to Ashan’s Report and Thilak Senasinghe’s Blog for some valuable information.
- Appreciate the help of Mr. Wijesiri, Station Master of Ihala Kotte for his valuable insight too.
- Check the Documentary of Lion’s Mouth & Elephant Back here.
- And the Documentary of Meeyangalla Tunnel here.
|
Author |
Sri Abeywickrema |
Comments |
Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
|
Hiya folks, hope you’ve been busy travelling and reading the endless stream of trip reports flowing in. just thinking back the days I joined Lakdasun, it was one or two trip reports coming in for a month but now it’s the complete opposite. The number of trip reports, last I checked was at 664 and growing ever so rapidly. It was on 23rd Feb 2014 I last went on a rail hike with Sheham, Atha and Tony from Galboda to Nawalapitiya clocking the Tunnel No. 10.
Since then, my focus was shifted dramatically towards my beloved waterfalls thus originating the collection – Tour de Waterfalls. As the rains have changed patterns, hundreds of hydro power plants are in the war path to kill as many falls as possible, and the season is now almost over, once again I had to shift gears and here I was thinking about another long overdue stretch of railway line, from Kadugannwa to Rambukkana. “Why not from Rambukkana to Kadugannawa?”, you might ask me and to that I can say is, it’s tougher climbing uphill than coming down, especially along the railway line. You must’ve seen how the trains labor to climb this stretch from Rambukkana to Kadugannawa groaning all the way so I didn’t wanna be in the same place. On the other hands starting from Kadugannawa was no different than Rambukkana, why pick the toughest way when there’s a relatively easier one available?
Tony, one of my partners in crime, had done this (of course he’d walked all the way from Badulla in his youth, considering his age, it may well have been about a century ago) but felt it was so much fun to do so with us and many occasions even threatened me not to attempt this without him. So finally I managed to find a day which was ok by both of us but unfortunately, Sheham and Atha, the rest of rail hiking gang, were otherwise engaged making it only the two of us to continue this.
Ana and Ashan had done this before making it easier to plan but it was Tony’s extensive knowledge that really came into the show. He’d read many articles and gathered a whale of information which in the end decided the fate of our tour. The blog of Mr. Thilak Senasinghe which Ashan had shared in his report confirmed most of Tony’s findings and it was so interesting to read that article while listening to Tony do the same. Finally it was on 30th Aug that brought us together to do this journey. We left for Fort around 4.30am and found the station jam-packed with many travelers, since this was the last weekend before the school holidays, most of them wanted to do something or the other for their kids.
After a long delay I managed to reach the ticket counter and got two 2nd class tickets for Kadugannawa. The officer at the counter simply threw the tickets and the balance towards me as if to get rid of me ASAP. Well, I stopped by to see if it was only me who got the leper’s treatment, alas, not really. Everyone who bought their tickets had the tickets and balance thrown at them and any innocent question was met with a scowl and a blunt one or two word reply. One old lady who was asking for a ticket to A’Pura was asked back if she wanted the cheap tickets or the expensive ones. What on earth is wrong with these people I was wondering when Tony out of nowhere came into the rescue of her saying it’s 2nd class she needs and the officer irritatingly threw the ticket at her.
Buying and reserving tickets at Fort Railway Station (and Kandy too) has always been a nightmare for me. I simple detest having to go there but what else can I do? However, almost all the officers at the small railway stations I’ve come across during my hikes have been very friendly and enthusiastic. Maybe the number of passengers coming into major stations has put a lot of stress on these officials, however, it’s not nice to treat locals like lepers and foreigners like gods.
I guess it’s enough of grumbling about the terrible service of Railway and get back to my fairy tale. Having pushed ourselves onto the platform No. 2, in which awaited the sky blue S12 swarming with people trying to get on board. We had no choice but to join forces with them. It was all mayhem while people were trying desperately to catch seats, screaming at others for barging in, shouting for their family members to make a move, etc. In the meantime, Railway Security Officers were walking from carriage to carriage ordering those who were holding onto seats with their bags to give them up and offering them to others. Tony and I helplessly watched all these from sidelines while securing a nice cozy place at the door.
Sun was opening his doors to the world sending the early rays across the world when the whistle blew, green LED torches flashed from the back and front and the train left for her long arduous journey. The things got nastier at Ragama, Gampaha, Veyangoda and Polgahawela as many people tried to get in pushing and squeezing. Those who chewing beetle leaves and aricanut were forced to go deeper into the carriages making it impossible to spit out of the train, and Tony joked they must’ve had to swallow the lot as a result.
Eventually after it felt like being in a sea of people, we reached Kadugannawa and got off with a sigh of relief and went in search of a place to have a hearty breakfast before starting. This is when we met two of Lakdasun Members, Amran and Parsi who were leading a bunch of their office colleagues on a hike to Bathalegala. It brought back the happy memories of Our Bathalegala Journey. After a bellyful meal, we started our journey from Kadugannawa towards Rambukkana and you’re gonna read that here on.
Tour Highlights:
- Dawson Tower, Kadugannawa.
- Highest Point on Colombo-Kandy Railway Line, Kadugannawa.
- Cocoa Malai aka Cocoa Watte Tunnel (No. 11), Kadugannawa.
- Lion’s Mouth, Kadugannawa.
- Elephant Back aka Bangali Tunnel (No. 10), Kadugannawa.
- Tunnel No. 9A and Moragolla Tunnel (No. 9), Balana.
- Balana Fort and Kadawatha Jack Tree, Balana.
- Tunnel No. 8, Balana.
- Sensation Rock aka Hakura Wetichcha Gala and Good View, Balana.
- Tunnel No. 7 & 6, Ihala Kotte.
- Dekinda Viaduct, Ihala Kotte.
- Alagalla Viaduct aka Anji Pahe Bokkuwa and Hakoluwawa Oya, Ihala Kotte.
- Sangaraja Cave, Ihala Kotte.
- Meeyangolla Tunnel (No. 5A) and Meeyan Ella, Ihala Kotte.
- Alternative Path to Alagalla, Gangoda.
- Kudira Bridge, Gangoda.
- Tunnel No. 5, Yatiwaldeniya.
- Kebellawatte Viaduct, Rambukkana
- Tunnel No. 4, 3 & 2, Rambukkana
That’s a long list, ain’t it? I’ll try to take you through all one by one so that it’d be easy for anyone who’s planning to do this in future, plan the journey with minimal hassle.
The distances between certain stations along the track:
Kadugannawa – Balana (4.5km)
Balana – Ihala Kotte (4.99km)
Ihala Kotte – Gangoda (2.3km)
Gangoda – Kadigamuwa (3.6km)
Kadigamuwa – Rambukkana (5.4km)
Distances of the Tunnels:
Tunnel 11 – 26.9m (88ft)
Tunnel 10 – 35.4m (116ft)
Tunnel 9 – 359.7m (1180ft)
Tunnel 8 – 44.2m (145ft)
Tunnel 7 – 20.1m (66ft)
Tunnel 6 – 20.1m (66ft)
Tunnel 5A – 419.9m (1378ft)
Tunnel 5 – 210.3m (690ft)
Tunnel 4 – 284.5m (933ft)
Tunnel 2 – 10.6m (35ft)
Dawson Tower / Highest Point / Koko Malai Tunnel
I’ve been to Dawson Tower and even climbed it with Prince sometime last year. This was towering over Kadugannawa Town when we started the journey. You can get on top of it by climbing through the inner circular staircase. It’d be a tight fit for above average folks to squeeze in and a torch is a must have. It won’t take more than an hour (depending on how long you plan to stay on top admiring the view) to do this if you can spare the time. Already there was a group of people on top and we kept on towards the highest point on Colombo-Kandy Railway Line. As many would guess it to be Kandy or even either Balana or Kadugannawa to be the highest point, it’s actually the 64 3/4th Mile Post about 200m from Kadugannawa towards Balana. The height of this place is 519m or 1690 feet. You can see the mile posts in black and white while the kilometer posts are in black and yellow.
While walking towards Colombo, the mile posts will be onto your left and the km posts to your right. Passing this we reached the first tunnel (No. 11) you come across after the one you find twin tunnels joined by a bridge at Galboda. This is called Cocoa Malai (Malai in Tamil refers to Hill) as a result of this area had a large Cocoa Plantation during the colonial period. Even now there are the odd cocoa trees but I doubt if they do it in a big commercial way.
As if on cue, there was a Kandy bound M6 coming through the tunnel and it helped us take some pics while it was emerging from the tunnel.
Just got off from the jam-packed train |
Our beginning |
Bring back sweet memories |
Already some of them are there |
Hit the railway |
Highest point on Col-Kandy Railway Line (1690ft) |
Just beginning |
First of the tunnels, Cocoa Watte Tunnel |
Yeah, the number is 11 |
M6 – German, built by Thyssen-Henschel (16 in active service) |
Out she comes |
Dancing Tony |
Ura Kanda and Bathalegala |
|
Lion’s Mouth / Elephant Back
At the 64th mile post came the moment of truth. The most important of designs met on the track. Just passing the mile post, one can see a huge head of an open-mouthed lion. It’s more prominent when you get closer and this is a result of a half roofed tunnel. There wasn’t enough of a rock to drill through to make a tunnel; instead they had to shave off the part of it making it like a roof. Coincidentally this resembles a roaring lion’s mouth.
From there, another 100m or so away is a very funnily shaped opening of the Tunnel No. 10 which reminds us of a back of an elephant. You can clearly see the back legs and the opening through in the middle. I don’t think those who made these did it on purpose to look like this, even if they did, they’ve succeeded really well. Further, this is also called the Bangali Tunnel as it’s believed there were Bangladeshis who were used to build this tunnel giving it’s the name.
This is when I decided to do a small documentary of the two interesting points located close to each other, while Ura Kanda and Bathalegala were smiling at us from a distance. We could even see the Kandy Road below us and the tunnel at the old stretch on the road was clearly visible. What’s more we could even take a few pics of vehicles entering it thanks to the extended zoom offered by my point-n-shoot.
This is when we got the second sight of a train coming through the Elephant Back and passing under the Lion’s Mouth. Gosh, the lion bit the train to pieces was all that came to mind watching it pass through. The long sleek S12 simply vanished into Kadugannawa and we kept on going towards Weralugolla, a name the English had misinterpreted as Wyrlee Grove.
Approaching the hallmarks |
Gosh, very much like a Lion’s |
Roaring one that is |
“Don’t come, the lion will bite you” |
Gosh, he bit the train to pieces |
Towards the tunnel on the road |
Up close |
“Who’s standing there?” |
Looking back at the lion’s mouth |
Very much like an elephant’s |
Yeah, the tunnel 10, also called Bangali Tunnel |
Walking through |
Come out |
Bathalegala at the distance |
Lonely walker |
Even from here it looks like an elephant’s back |
Endless view |
Sweet Bathalegala |
Tunnel 9A / Tunnel 9 / Balana Fort / Kadawatha Jack Tree
You might be curious as to the naming of these tunnels using letter A. Well, the reason was the engineers had to change the railway line over time due to various reasons; mainly earth slips and lose ground. Where you meet tunnel 9A is one such place. The original railway line was laid to the left of the tunnel going around the rock so as to avoid having to drilling the rock making a tunnel. Over time, the ground gave way and it became too dangerous for the train to travel as an earth slip would’ve sent it down nearly 1000ft causing a major accident.
In the end they were forced to do the inevitable and drill the rock and built a tunnel. However by that time all the tunnels had been named and as a result they decided to call it 9A. What it meant by the letter A is anybody’s guess but I guess it might mean “Addition”. We tried to take a look at the old railway line that is still there but thick undergrowth has concealed all the signs of it and the path is more or less had washed down making it dangerous to venture there. So we abandoned our plans and went through the tunnel thanks to Atha’s torch. It was pitch black inside and this is when Tony said that he’d love to stay inside a tunnel when a train comes. I was scared witless at the thought but pondering on, it looked very appealing too. However, little did Tony know that his wish would come true in a few hours? So be careful what you wish for as they have a tendency to come true.
Just on the other side of the tunnel was a strange drain pipe built high close to the top of the tunnel diverting the water that seeps through the rocks away from the railway line. This area in many places has constant dripping rocks threatening the stability of the railway line and they’ve had to use many engineering tactics to overcome this problem over and over again. An accident, especially an earth slip or a derailment is gonna be a one horror story and we might have to close down the railway line cutting of any connection beyond Balana altogether if not taken care of properly.
We then reached the Weralugolla Sub Railway Station and as I mentioned above the Englishmen have misinterpreted the pronunciation as Wyrlee Grove. This is kinda very similar to how they came up with the name Kandy referring it to Kanda. We came across a narrow road that goes beneath the railway and there was another major road going underneath close to Rambukkana passing Kadigamuwa called Kebellawatte Viaduct. Passing all this we reached the tunnel 9 which is called the “Maha Binge” (The Large Tunnel) or Moragolla Tunnel and is in excess of 1000ft in length. This is the base of the Moragolla Hill. It is located very close to Balana Station and we soon reached there but about 500m before the station, there’s a concreted by road to your right and we took that hoping to reach Balana Fort.
Actually, if you’re going to visit it, don’t take this path but go up to the Station where Balana-Kadugannawa Road begins. There are a couple of tuk-tuks parked there most of the time and you can easily take one to and from the Balana Fort which is around 3-4km away. We without knowing turned to the by road before the station and kept on going about 500m when it met the Balana-Kadugannawa Road. We turned to the left and went uphill searching for a tuk-tuk. Passing the temple there was a junction and when we inquired from a villager he very helpfully offered to find one and went in searching for a tuk-tuk at a nearby shop.
There was a person called Manju who was still in his working clothes came to take us to the Fort. The old uncle too got in saying that “How can we not help people who’d come all the way from Colombo?” They were fascinated by our tales and found our hobby to be very interesting. Manju and the uncle (not Tony) kept telling us stories of various kinds. The path to the fort lies through a tea patch and is about 600m. The fort is nothing much to look at despite various attempts at keeping it nice and intact by the archaeological department. However the name “Balana” or “Look out” suits it best as it’s a grand viewing point. We could see the mighty Bathalegala looking serenely at us in the distance while clouds kept floating towards Ura Kanda. Balana Fort is located about 500 feet higher than the station which is 428.24m or 1405 feet.
While we enjoyed the view, Manju, his daughter and Uncle too came up the path to join us. He had plenty to talk about and we soon turned around coz there was so much to go see. On our way back, about 1km from the fort, we stopped at a place called “Kadawatha Jack Tree”. According to the notice there which is fixed recently, this jack tree is about 500 years old and been the place where when the Balana Fort was active, the taxes were collected. The tax collecting place is usually referred as “Kadawatha” and thus the name Kadawath Jack Tree. Apparently they had collected tax under the shade of this jack tree. So this is one more significant thing to add to the mile long list to check out.
We took the Balana main road and reached the station when a Colombo-bound train was coming towards it. Afterwards, we headed towards Ihala Kotte having bid our farewell to Manju, his daughter and Uncle. Manju was so interested in our explorations and got us to write the Lakdasun web address on his daughter’s exercise book to check what’s on it. Just a very interesting thing we saw at Balana was the old signaling system. There was a post with two cubby holes either side with a ladder to reach them. Tony explained they used to light lamps and keep them in these holes for the oncoming trains as signals in the night when they didn’t have electricity to use lights. This was the only such equipment I’ve seen so far and may well be the only thing available.
Heading towards Ihala Kotte, we saw the postman walking along the railway line with a bunch of letters and this is too an unprecedented sighting for us. I’d never before seen a postman walking on the railway line, must be exciting.
Note: Please note that there’s a place called “Wawul Bokkuwa” (Bat Viaduct) about 300m before the Balana Station where the ash of burnt charcoal was dumped in the old days. We missed this as we turned early to the Balana Fort and got directly back to the station itself. So keep an eye out for it. Especially the water stream that flows underneath this is called “Kata Le Ela” (Blood Clot Canal) as during the fights at Balana, the felled soldiers’ blood had floated down along the canal in clots creating the name. It must’ve been a dreadful sight.
Inching towards 9A |
Here we are |
The original one is to the left but inaccessible |
Pitch black |
Out we came |
Shadow looking |
The rudimentary water diversion I told you about |
The rocks are chipped at many places |
Similar to Dekinda and Alagalla Viaduct but none of them |
Wyrlee Grove according to the English |
The road goes underneath |
Plenty of clouds with clear blue sky |
The Moragolla Tunnel |
Got to go in again |
Got the torches ready |
In we go |
Took many pics like this |
What does that number mean? – Probably the date the concrete bit was done |
Looking back |
Arriving at Balana and the Alagalla in the distance |
Faded sign post |
Shady path |
Nicely built |
Fruitful |
About 600-800m to walk |
There she is |
Finally but where’s the fort? |
Balana name suits this place |
Windy and this is the path that goes through the forest and emerges from the Kadawatha Jack Tree |
View is somewhat blocked |
Here’s the path |
Only the front foundation is now visible |
Steps at the front – Can you see the notice board and read the story? Just kidding, it’s gone with no info available. |
Remaining walls |
Bordered by privately owned tea estates |
Manju and his daughter |
Here’s the Kadawatha Jack Tree |
The story |
500 years old? |
Alagalla looking serenely at us |
Here we are |
M5 – Japanese, built by Hitachi |
Located 500ft below the Fort |
Old lamp signaling system |
Towards Ihala Kotte |
Postman going about his business |
Tunnel 8 / Sensation Rock / Good View / Tunnel 7 / Tunnel 6
We soon reached the Tunnel 8 and went through it without an incident. Afterwards, it was all about Sensation Rock and Good View. This sensation rock is really a sensational place. According to the historical narrations, this sensation rock is also called “Hakura Wetichcha Gala” (The Rock that Hakura Fell). Allegedly there had been a toddy tapper named Hakura and he’d fallen down the rock killing him and this got the name after that. It’s also said that one English Engineer who was doing a survey of the place got himself killed having fallen off the rope he was using. We couldn’t find the Kudira Bridge located near this Sensation Rock, or we must have overlooked it. It was built for the English Engineers who came to oversee the construction of the railway line on horseback giving it the name Kudira (Horse in Tamil) Bridge. However there was a tiny bridge just before the beginning of the Sensation Rock and it might be the Kudira Bridge as there was nothing remotely resembling one.
The rock itself is chipped at by the engineers making it easy for the train to pass through. The total length of this is about 300m and the slope is almost 90-degrees and has a depth of a similar range. However the view from this point is magnificent giving a clear view towards Bathalegala, Uthuwankanda, Ura Kanda, Devanagala, etc. That was why this place is also called “Good View” or even “Grand View”.
The thought of a train derailing at this place is unfathomable as it would fall almost 1000ft below probably killing many passengers on the way. However, then engineers too had foreseen this danger and used a fail-safe method. They’ve added two guard rails to the railway line and made the line a little slanted towards the rock. As a result so far no train had derailed here and caused any fatalities. I hope this record will stay like that forever.
We were going towards Ihala Kotte when we heard a hoot of a train coming up and I ran back to Sensation Rock to take a pic with the train and managed to take a couple just in time. Gosh, it was a close call and I almost missed that photo opportunity. That little run in brought back our run to catch the train on 9-arched bridge when Atha, Prasa and I ran (rather hopped like rabbits) for 2km on the railway line and still missed it. (You can read the story in My First-Ever Rail Hike here.)
Passing it we came face to face with Alagalla (I’ve forgotten all this time to mention her). She was covered in mist when we saw her in the morning but now had got rid of her veil looking majestic. I kept mumbling to myself, “Lady, you’re not far behind in my list” and I plan to conquer her given a half chance. To our surprise, we found another path other than the well-known Poththapitiya trail to climb her. More on that later.
Then we came to Tunnel 7 and 6 which are located about 200m from each other and like at Galboda, where tunnel 13 and 12 are situated close to each other. However unlike Galboda where the two tunnels are joined by a bridge, this has no bridge and the railway line was more curved than there. Nonetheless, we could still see each other clearly at once. It was a grand view to see a tunnel through. We spent some time appreciating the view and hoping a train would come but nothing came and we carried on towards Ihala Kotte hoping to go pay a visit to Dekinda Falls.
Tunnel 8 |
Coming after the morning shift |
Came out and looked back |
Away they go |
So far we’ve come a bit over 5km |
Resting places for the railway workers |
Could this be the Kudira Bridge? Coz we couldn’t find anything remotely possible |
Here we come |
Good View |
Good view downhill |
Chipped rock |
Towards Kandy |
Here she comes |
Observation saloon |
Alagalla rising to the sky |
Just at the twin tunnels |
The 6th tunnel is visible in the distance through the 7th |
Close up |
Very nicely done framework |
A tough going for the fella, good for a toddy tapper |
Second of the twin tunnel |
Running through rocky boulders most of the time |
Tony, the photographer |
Looking back at 7th from the 6th |
Time to make a move on |
|
Dekinda Viaduct / Alagalla Viaduct
We reached Makehelwala Sub Station and stopped to search for the Dekinda Viaduct which is supposed be another engineering marvel. Unfortunately like many other places the overgrown plants along either side prevented us finding the exact location. It’s located very close to Makehelwala Sub Station yet we couldn’t find the exact place of Dekinda Viaduct. It’s supposed to be at 60 1/4th mile post joining Kehelwarawa and Motana Hills. The word “Dekinda” has come from “Kandu Deka = Dekanda” in Sinhala. Don’t get confused with the Dekinda Sub Station close to Galboda.
According to Thilak Senasinghe’s article, Dekinda Bund is 540ft in length, 18ft in width and 90ft in height. They had used, according to historical data, 220,000 cubic feet of earth and gravel to build this. The Dekinda Viaduct is a grand architectural achievement but one needs to get down to the base of it to see the mega size of it. It’s believed that a 40-feet container can easily go through this viaduct with no problem due to the massive size of it.
The wind got stronger all of a sudden bringing a sudden shower that lasted about 5mins and we managed to shelter by the railway line till it passed. With no clue to check the Dekinda Viaduct we carried on towards Ihala Kotte when we came across an ice cream vendor coming along the railway line with the typical horn they use. Well, this was another first for me, the postman and now the ice cream man. We bought two cones and gosh, they tasted heavenly. I managed to peep inside his regifoam box and take a pic of the various kinds available. Alagalla was looking at us smiling at the way we savored the ice cream and when I offered her a bite, she politely refused.
Another 500m or so brought us to a kind of bridge and looking closely there was this huge arch under it and Tony suspected this to be the Alagalla Viaduct or Anji Pahe Bokkuwa. We were however not quite sure whether it was this or the Dekinda Viaduct. However, all the signs suggested this to be the Alagalla Viaduct, especially the 59 1/2th mile post and we took a few pics and underneath we saw the Hakoluwawa Oya, which I guess creates the Dekinda Falls which is found along Ihala Kotte-Poththapitiya Path. The arch was not as huge as the one we found at 9-arch Bridge but still big enough.
We reached Ihala Kotte Station when an S12 reached and waited for the station master’s ritual of handing over the tablet. He was a very friendly person and came and spoke to us. When we told him about our rail hikes, he was very impressed and told us that he’s got a pic of the Alagalla Viaduct that he got from a friend of his stashed away somewhere. After our pleas, he went in search of it and found it among many of his documents and when we saw that, “oh my gosh, how on earth did you get this?” was all we both could manage.
It was a photocopy of the original pic and we could clearly see all 5 arches and most surprising was it had taken while the Viaduct was being built between Alagalla and Kehelwarawa Mountains. The pic, as being a photocopy, was not the best of the quality but the details were all there for us to see. We could see the slab framework they had built to help do the final stages of the arches and could even make out one or two workers on top of them. It was a priceless pic and I’d never seen or even heard of one available of Alagalla Viaduct that clearly shows all 5 arches. We were extremely lucky and it was all thanks to the Station Master, Mr. Wijesiri who was very generous and friendly. This is why we need to keep communicating with people like these as their knowledge is vast and priceless. Apparently the other 4 arches of the viaduct has been closed with earth and in case the water levels increased alarmingly those closed arches will be opened by the rising water levels not damaging the viaduct or the railway line. Some ingenious technique that was.
He also told us about the 9A and then the 5A tunnels where the engineers got it wrong at first and then had to resort to drill tunnels. Most important of all, there was the cave of Sangaraja Sri Saranankara Thero’s where he hid from the English while being looked after by the villagers secretly. Our attempt to take the Potthapitiya Path in front of the Ihala Kotte Station and see the Dekinda Ella had to be aborted due to the lack of water. Many villagers said that there’s very little water in the stream so we decided to leave it out and it turned out to be a wise decision as it was around 6.30pm when we reached Rambukkana. Had we visited the falls, we’d never have made it in time to Rambukkana.
If it wasn’t for the railway line, this would remind me of a bus stop |
The Dekinda Viaduct should be close |
Just this bit but no sign of the viaduct |
Endless view |
Our ice cream uncle |
“How about one dear?” |
Paddy fields below |
Anji Pahe Bokkuwa |
Uthuwankanda in the distance |
Hakoluwawa Oya under the viaduct |
Over the viaduct |
Bathalegala was with us all the time |
Ihala Kotte |
Is this the old station? |
Sour Goraka |
On our short walk towards Poththapitiya hoping to see Dekinda Ella but had to give it up |
Here we are |
Change of battons, rather tablets |
Nicely drawn pic at the station |
Mr. Wijesiri and Tony |
Priceless pic, don’t think this is available anywhere else |
Thorny |
Time to go |
|
Sangaraja Cave / Meeyangolla Tunnel / Alagalla Path from Gangoda
We had a snack from the nearby shop behind the station and went in search of the Sangaraja Cave which about 300m towards Rambukkana. The land mark is the 59th mile post and the cave is obscured by the overgrown bushes and the huge rock boulder bordering the railway line to your right when coming down from Ihala Kotte. With some guidance from passing villagers, we went through the bushes and into the cave. It was a fairly large cave with a two well for water and two creaks on the roof that acts like a sky light. It is said that the Monk was self-sufficient except for food as he had the natural light and ample water to live.
Passing that another couple of hundred meters was the moment of truth where the Tunnel No. 5A was located. It’s also known as Meeyangolla Tunnel due to the location is at the base of Meeyangolla Mountain. Unlike at 9A, the original path of the railway line is clearly visible and you can even walk along that to avoid having to walk through the second longest tunnel in SL. The rock on the original track was chipped at making it easy for the train to go through but we noticed at 3 places, there had been large waterfalls coming directly onto the track. What the engineers had done was, to block the water stream from the top of the mountain and diverting the water elsewhere trying to minimize the amount of water hitting the railway line.
Their efforts had been fruitless as, especially on rainy days, the water kept coming in large quantities endangering the trains. The waterfall that used to be here is called the “Meeyan Ella” but the ignorance of then engineers had killed her mercilessly without even yielding dividends. This reminds me of Upper Kotmale Project where they killed St. Claire and damaged many other waterfalls trying to build a hydro power plant. Not only that, there are hundreds of other mini hydro power plants being built at an unprecedented rate killing many waterfalls especially in Ratnapura and Kegalle districts.
We saw the poles where they used to hang cables still on the old path to the left of the tunnel mouth. On the way we saw the 3 places where they had carved deep into the rock to prevent water falling onto the track. As per the station master’s tip, we kept looking at a tunnel dug on one of these spots where they had removed the rocks broken while digging the tunnel. It has kinda acted as a gate for the pieces of rocks to be removed easily without having to take them all the way back to the mouth of the tunnel saving a long journey.
We did a short documentary too and you’ll hear Tony talking animatedly and angrily over the loss of this gigantic Meeyan Ella. She’d definitely have been one of the highest in Sri Lanka if she was still alive. So we lost the railway track and the gorgeous Meeyan Ella too. We got back to the tunnel entrance and went in searching for big enough man holes to wait if a train appears as the tunnel was so long. About 100m into the tunnel, we felt the rumbling of the sleepers and knew the imminent arrival of a train was due. We found a large man hole and braced ourselves to wait while Tony was acting like an excited kid coz his wish to stay inside a tunnel when a train comes was about to come true. As the train appeared at the entrance of the tunnel, I pointed and took a pic and waited for it to pass us. Gosh, it was both exhilarating and frightening but we were not in any kind of danger as these man holes are there exactly for that purpose, especially inside longer tunnels.
Tony was overjoyed saying that one of his dreams came true but for it was a mixed bag but looking back, it certainly was one helluva experience. However, you gotta be very careful and find a big enough manhole to bunk down. Thanks to our torches we managed to get across without further incident and emerged back into the daylight.
We were on the lookout for another tip given by the station master as he said it’s possible to either climb up or down from Gangoda, about 2.5km from Ihala Kotte. We met a few boys loitering around and talking to them got the confirmation of this claim. The Alagalla Mountain range was to our right and it must be more than half a km in length while the peak is closer to Poththapitiya area you can walk along the top towards the other end of the range which leads to Gangoda. We saw a structure on the top and the boys claimed a temple is being built on the top. We could even see steps going uphill about midway to the rock and thereafter you have to follow the path through trees and bushes and bordering the rock.
This reminded me of My Lakegala Journey but those boys said it was easy to climb from Poththapitiya. One little fella claimed very proudly that he’d climbed this 6 times. This is one of the dream hikes of mine and hope to finish it ASAP weather permitting. According to them, the climb from Gangoda is too steep and hard compared to Poththapitiya but free of leeches. The Poththapitiya trail is relatively easy but leeches are there, especially in large numbers during the rainy season.
Sangaraja Cave, note the 59th mile post |
This is all you can see from the railway line, have to take the path to the left of this |
View of the entrance, a difficult move |
Inside is low ceilinged at places |
Fresh water available right inside |
Natural light too |
From the inside |
The tragic tunnel where the Meeyan Falls met her death |
To the left is the original track and you can easily walk on unlike the 9A |
View from the path |
Signs are still visible |
Improvised bridge |
One of the 3 places like this we came across |
Looking down, the falls would’ve been so tall |
Zoomed in |
Chipped rocky path |
Note the hole on the wall |
This is what used to remove broken rocky pieces |
Hi sweety! |
Just entered the second largest tunnel in SL when we heard the train |
Here comes the devil |
The light in the dark |
Out the other side and Tony is pointing at the original path |
Alagalla range seen from Gangoda. To the extreme left they’re building a temple, the footpath with steps can be barely seen above the coconut tree. |
W3 – German built |
Away she goes |
The boys we met |
Gangoda |
The pond at the station |
One of my favorite colors |
Kudira Bridge / Tunnel 5 / Kebellawatte Viaduct / Tunnel 4 / Tunnel 3 / Tunnel 2
Passing Gangoda, we came across an overhead bridge similar to the one we found between Great Western and Watagoda (Rail Hike Stage 04) which was called Kudira Bridge (remember the one close to Sensation Rock). Of course there was no record of this anywhere I could find but I assume this must have been a similar crossing for the English people to cross the railway line on their horses. Passing that we reached the Tunnel 5 and passed it without any incident.
While we were reaching Yatiwaldena Sub Station, a Dutch Locomotive passed us towards Colombo. These M9 built by Alstom of Netherland are not suitable for SL operation due to the high cost of maintenance and spare parts. Another blunder of the greedy and corrupt politicians that sent our tax money down the drain. Passing the Sub Station and the temple we reached another significant landmark found on the railway line passing Kadigamuwa.
This is where the Mawanella-Rambukkana main road goes underneath the railway line and it’s called the Kebellwatte Bokkuwa (Viaduct). We saw a Leyland bus was struggling to cross it as its overhead railing posed a huge problem but the driver managed to drive through safely. Afterwards it was only the Tunnel 4, 3 and 2 which were remaining and we got through them easily but the hike was taking its toll on us as we were so exhausted but had no choice but to go up to Rambukkana. Closer to Rambukkana, there was a roar of a train out of nowhere and we just in time jumped to the side to see only an engine coming really fast downhill. It was a close call so be ready for these kinds of unscheduled locomotives.
Finally after a long and tiring walk, we reached Rambukkana around 6.30pm, exhausted beyond words but thrilled all the same. It was a grand journey, the best of my rail hikes so far and Tony’s extensive knowledge helped me learn a lot of new things and we really had a very good time.
The Kudira bridge we could see similar to the one at Watagoda |
Wider than that |
The old man pushing on |
Ooops! |
At the entrance of the Tunnel 5 |
Neck-less ghost |
Out we came |
M9 – French, built by Alstom |
Another sub station |
Yatiwaldena Temple |
Approaching the Kadigamuwa |
Layered plants |
Another yet to be fully blossomed |
Looking back at Alagalla with grey clouds above |
Mother’s Love |
S12 – Chinese, built by CSR |
Going towards Rambukkana |
Kebellawatte viaduct, the bus found it a bit difficult to cross |
All kinds of vehicles crossing along Rambukkana-Mawanella road |
Tunnel 4 |
In we go |
Tony, the lone man |
Another M6 but a different color coding |
Being swallowed by the tunnel 4 |
“Is it far now?” |
Just at Tunnel 3 |
Tiny one |
Tony watching the blue whale appears |
In she goes to tunnel 2 |
Roaming monkeys |
Going home |
Unexpected devil nearly overran us |
Setting sun |
Paddyfields of Rambukkana |
Temple at Rambukkana |
Lord Buddha is blessing us |
Another M6 rushing towards Rambukkana |
Hurraaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhh! Finally, in the background is the wreckage of the major accident at Rambukkana in Jan 2002 |
Very old engine resting at Rambukkana |
Built in 1867, gosh, 147 years ago and 3 years after the railway introduced in SL |
Enjoy the Panos too.
Pano 1 |
|
Pano 2 |
|
As usual, after our breakfast at 9.00am, we had no lunch and our next meal was, apart from the couple of buns we had at Ihala Kotte, at 645pm in Rambukkana. Thankfully, neither of us suffers from gastritis and we didn’t even feel that we were hungry.
The return journey to Fort from Rambukkana was a roller-coaster ride. The M6 coming from Badulla went like a tracer bullet from the word ‘go’ and made it to Colombo Fort in 1h and 35mins. I’ve never seen the M6 goes that fast and highly doubt even the new S12 makes the distance in that time. 85km and 8 stops in between yet this girl ran like the wind.
So that’s it for now folks and I hope you enjoyed reading this and learned something too.
Take care and enjoy your travels.
Sri…