| Year and Month | 2016 April (21,22,23) |
| Number of Days | 3 days |
| Crew | 5 ( Dodam,Dinesh, Nishan, My brother Nipuna & Me ) |
| Guide | 1) Thayagaraja of Lebonon estate – Bambarella to KMP and for Climbing Thunhisgala(0817 926421)
2) Samaraweera of Meemure & His Cousing at Ranamure – KMP to Duwili Eli and Decend to Ranamure(0815653258) (Please confirm the charges before the journey to avoid unnecessary complications ) |
| Accommodation | 1st night at KMP wadiya at Kalupahana
2nd night Duwili Eli Cave |
| Transport | By Train, Busses and sometimes using Three wheels |
| Activities | Hiking, walking more than 50 kms in the forest , Waterfall hunting, Photography & Relaxing |
| Weather | Excellent expect few showers on 21st evening |
| Route | Battaramulla -> Fort Railway Station -> Kandy -> Wattegama -> Bambarella -> Kalupahana KMP wadiaya -> Thunhisgala -> KMP -> Duwili eli Cave -> Ranamure -> Pallegama -> Dambulla -> Pettah -> Battaramulla |
| Tips, Notes and Special remark | There are only few buses to Bambarella from Kandy. You have to go to Wattegama and from there you can get a Bambarella bus in every hour or so.
This is an extremely challenging journey. You have to be physically and mentally fit to do this trail. Adding to that you also have to be aware of following facts or more to do this trail. Here are few facts you should be mindful 1.Legal frame There are so many legal restrictions in knuckles range specially in Kalupahana area where there are many abandoned / destroyed Cardamom processing huts . Only KMP is operating now but only as an accommodating option. So even if you are a genuine traveler you have to give a damn good explanation with all the particulars if met with Forest department officials. BUT for a person who try to collect plants, insects ,seeds (even cardamom seeds ) harm flora or fauna, hunting, pollute nature etc has no Chance. I never encourage those illegal activities or am not responsible for those people if they met with misfortune . This report is only to encourage pure nature lovers and describe the beauty of Knuckles range . If you go there remember this MANTRA..” TAKE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS AND LEAVE ONLY FOOT PRINTS ” that tells all 2. Weather If it rains it’s really difficult to travel because of muddy paths and slippery rocks in streams. danger of flash floods also there. So don’t attempt this in rainy season or even when it’s raining. Best time to visit this area is February- April 3. Leaches Kalupahana area is the most leeches infected area in Sri lanka where I have been .Some places you step foot on leaches rather than on soil . If it rained things get aggravated So Use a leach repellant and use leach socks too. ALUM is an effective leach repellent 4. Misleading Paths and non existing paths. Due to Kalupahana being a Cardamom processing area in past there are many paths leading to those abandoned Cardamom Huts. On the other hand forest department has destroyed those huts except KMP. So now the foot paths are invaded by forest. so there is a high risk of getting lost. So Accompany a well experienced Guide. other thing that you must aware is , I have never ever met a person who can explore whore range of knuckles . Most of them are experts in their territories .That’s why we used three guides. So understand the limits of guides and don’t push or flatter them to go beyond that
5. All sort of Dangerous Animals Leopard is common in these area. Although there has no reported attack to humans, many of travelers have either seen them or had even heard the roar of them . Now there are few loitering wild Elephants in this area due forest destruction in Kalu ganga project. Adding to that wild boars , wild buffalos etc are common. So be cautious about signs of them and do not Travel alone or In Dark. If you travel in day time with a group there is a very less chance of encounter with wild Animals . Remember God has given Day for Humans and Night is for Animals 6. Venomous Snakes and Poisonous plants In the higher elevations of knuckles there are Hump nosed vipers ( Kunakatuwa ) and Green Pit vipers ( Pala Polanga ). So Wear Shoes. Better to wear Boots if you can hold them Also there is a common poisonous plant called Maussa. Once get contacted person get a severe itching followed by fever. And Poisonous Caterpillars are common where i got troubled by them both times i visited Doowili Eli. So be careful. Better to take some Piriton. 7. Distances There are definitely more than 15kms to Reach Duwili Ella from any village bordering knuckles such as Bambarella, Meemure, Ranamure, Etanwala or Rambukoluwa . And everybody knows this distance is not through a flat carpeted road. It will take a complete day to reach a village if you needed any help like medical assistance. So Please be extra careful on your safety 8. Rumors and Folk ware There are so many stories told by our guides and people in KMP about ghosts and Panthers . I don’t believe them but according to them they have witnessed such those . So obey the rituals before you enter the forest and do not harm nature or creatures . Then You’ll be protected by Kele Bandara and Gale Bandara Deva’s. Above factors were mentioned not to discourage you but to arm you with all the tools and facts so as to succeed in this wonderful journey. Remember this Kalupahana area is the most beautiful and charming area of Knuckles . Once you visited this area you will definitely repeat visiting for sure. That’s what I am doing. I will finish my tools and tips column with a statement of our earlier guide at Etanwala with whom we visited Duuwili eli previous time. That Humble old village man described the whole journey as this.. “Puthala umbalata Mehew amaru gamanak aye hambawenneth naa habai me gamana aye umbalata jeewithetatama amathaka wenneth na oon… ” |
| Related Resources | Trip reports :Ashan’s Report on Thunhisgala
My Previous report on Duwili Eli Other Reports on Duwili Eli |
| Author | Harinda |
| Comments | Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread |
There had been some discussions with Ashan, me and Nishan to do a Mega journey starting from Bambarella and reach KMP at Kalupahana then climb Thunhisgala and descend to Pallegama by exploring Duwili eli. Although I had been to Duwili Eli once from Etanwala, Thunhisgala was a dream for me. Ashan and Amila went for a two day hike to Thunhisgala but I couldn’t join them as I couldn’t take leave from my work place. So I missed their journey. I was in a confusion whether I could be able to do this before the rainy season. Because Kalupahana area is not a place where you can travel every time of the year. And it’s not a place where everyone like to visit and it’s a place where you can’t take each and every one who like to visit the place. But for my survival Dodam who has good experience in traveling in knuckles(He had climbed even Lakegala with Sri ) wanted to do it and Knuckles expert Nishan(who had climbed almost all the peaks of Knuckles ) happily joined us too. Since we had experienced travelers with three well experienced guides we gave a chance to two new comers to join with us. They were my brother Nipuna and Dodam’s Cousin Brother Dinesh. So considering lots of facts I planned my 12th visit to Knuckles range.
Our rough plan was to come to Rathnagiiya estate/Bambarella before 12.00 noon and reach Kmp before dark with the guide Thyagaraja. Stay the first night in Kmp and climb Thunhisgala Following day morning with Same guide and return to Kmp before 12.00 noon. Then split the journey in to three . Thaygaraj and Nishan moving to bamabarella and Me and my brother moving to Duwili Eli with One of the guides who came from Ranamure and stay Duwili Eli cave at night. Then getting down to Ranamure in the third day .While Dodam and his cousin decided on getting down to Meemure in third day with other guide while staying second night in kmp. So we informed Thyagarajato come to Ratnagiri estate at bambarella at 12.00 p.m. and other two guides ( Kalu Malli at meemure and Punch Banda at Ranamure ) to come to Kmp on next day. But due to safety reasons they informed us that both will start from Ranamure in the morning and come to kmp by noon on the first day.
We all except Nishan gathered to Fort railway station at 5.45 a.m. on 21st
We Waited for the podimenike Train. There was a delay in arrival of train. since 21st being the Full moon day there was a huge crowd and we had to keep standing all the way till Kandy.
We had breakfast there. Then we boarded to a Bambarella Bus. But it stopped at wattegama for nearly one hour. At Panwila Nishan joined us by getting in to our bus and we all got down from a junction called “Malgudi ” which is before Bambarella town.
Then we contacted our guide Thyagaraja but he had gone somewhere thinking we might not come. Because we promised to come to the junction at 11.00-12.00 but it was around 1.30 p.m. then. So after leaving a message to his father to contact us no sooner he comes we headed towards Ratnagiriya estate. after walking for a kilometer we came to a small stream with a bridge. We had Rotty as lunch which was brought by Nishan. Then we walked up another 2 km or so and stayed at the “Dalu Maduwa” where the original tral ( foot path ) starts. Sometimes we used foot paths through tea estate.
Note: One can drive up to this place from main road if he comes with a 4WD or VAN
 Going Towards Rathnagiri Estate |
 Entering to a tea estate |
 The Bridge |
 Small water stream |
 Having Lunch ( Left to right Me, Dodam, Dinesh, Nishan and Nipuna |
 Path to Hills |
 Using Short cuts – Dodams Brother Dinesh and My brother NIPUNA were the two new comers |
 Path through tea estate |
 Dodam @ Dalu Maduwa ..Last motorable place. From Where original hike starts |
 Nishan’s posing |
We contacted our guide again at this place. Although his father assured his arrival it was frustrating to wait till him since time passed on. Finally he arrived at 3.30 p.m. which was quite late for us. One needs 3-4 hours to do this hike leisurely without getting exhausted. On the other hand other than our cloths, water and other items we had to carry more than 20 kg as food and snacks as we have to survive for 3 days. Most of the items were canned food . On other hand ,though we were five we had to take care about three guides and three people in the KMP too. we divided the weight among six of us and started the journey .
It was a strenuous but scenic hike till we pass Rathnagiriya mountain. Then we had to descend through the dense forest. We met the Kovil and did some rituals and filled our bottles with water. Throughout the journey we hydrated ourselves using Jeewani and treated our shoes with Alum. In the middle we met a bunch of wild boars who ran in front of us furiously . It was getting dark at 6.00 and guide was in fear of wild animals so he accelerated and we had to do somewhat running behind him . We used torches but it couldn’t prevent us by falling and slipping. Adding to that it began to rain and thousands of blood suckers were activated. After an exhausting running in the dark and rain we reached KMP Wadiya at 6.45 p.m.
 Initial climbing |
 We were greeted with lots of Embul Pera ( Vitamin C Bomb ) at the beginning |
 Initial pat was through Mana Forest ( Thyagaraj – our guide was coming Behind ) |
 Scenic |
 Rathnagiriya Mountain |
 Dense Forest |
 Small Kovil Where we did rituals |
 Alum Treatment |
 Re starting |
 Place we met some wild boars |
 Strange place |
 Getting dark, just before the rain ..face tells everything |
When we reach the KMP there were 5 people to great us. Two guides, Nihal mama the caretaker of KMP and two supporters . So there were total of 11 to stay in KMP . We gave all the food stuff to Nihal mama and supporters to cook for all 11 of us in next three days. Actually we didn’t have to bother on cooking.( Actually Nihal Mama is a very helpful guy. He’ll arrange you meals , accommodation and sometimes guide you to nearby attractions. As travelers we can assist him by bringing essential items like dried or canned food, candles, torches, kerosene) Remember there is no electricity or mobile signals to Kmp. First they made Nescafe for us Then Rice, Salmon, Potatoes and coconut Sambal for dinner. After having a wash at nearby water source we sat on the floor and had a nice chat with Nihal Mama. He told lots of stories about the cardamom processing History and etc. Then we had dinner and slept on paduru laid by them.
We made a vital change in plan before we sleep . Instead of getting down to Meemure ,Dodam and Dinesh wanted to join with us to explore doowili eli next day . So our next day plan was to climb Thunhisgala and Descend to Duwili Eli and stay the night in the Cave
 Under the kerosene lamp light…Hearing Nihal mamage rasa Katha…………….. |
 Refreshments before Dinner. When you go there pls. don not write anything on walls |
 Nishan was giving suggestions while having dinner at Kitchen |
 Thyagaraja -our guide – hero of Day 01 |
We woke up early in the morning and had Nescafe . ( Why We brought Nescafe 3 in 1 packets because it’s easy to prepare. Boil water and pour the mixture..simple..)
Then we had Noodles with Meat Balls . then we were ready to climb Thunhisgala at sharp 7.30 a.m. Thyagaraja took us through various foot paths and entered to the ridge of the mountain . from there it was a continuous ascend. Cool weather with invaded mist, colourful trees were blessing for us. Once we reached the place which we thought as summit , we witnessed another peak ahead. After climbing that we saw another peak. That may be the reason of naming this mountain as THUN HIS GALA ( Three headed Mountain ) After So much of exhaustion we reached the last peak means summit after nearly 3 hours from the start. colorful surrounding with mist eliminated our tiredness But it prevented us by getting a clear view which was a bad luck for photo lovers.
 KMP Wadya where we stayed the last night – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Another angle |
 View of Thunhisgala from KMP |
 Some streams we crossed at the beginning – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 More Barriers Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Paths were not clear – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Wow Knuckles forest ……………………………………………………….with Cardamom threatening ……………….Undergrowth has no secondary line up. So once the remaining trees died the area will be a pathana ( Bare land ) that’s why FD has decided to stop cardamom processing in Kalupahana |
 moss |
 I Love these forests ….Oxygen Factories |
 Work of animals – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Initial climb was difficult without proper path – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Came to the ridge …now you have to climb through somewhat clear path |
 Tree Art |
 These were common |
 Came to an opening |
 View from there |
 More views |
 Beauty |
A Pano
 Now started the most difficult climb through bushes with dangerous drops either side Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 Aiyai Malliy -Photo : Dodam/Dinesh |
 See how they climb |
 More view on the way |
 Severe drops |
 The Ridge we came |
 See the top ..but there were more tops after that…Never ending hike at Thun His Gala |
 Exhausted |
 Came to the Target and getting some rest |
 Results Were Priceless – Photo : Dodam / Dinesh |
 Wow |
 Wonderful Colours -Photo : Dodam / Dinesh |
 Playing in Heaven -Photo : Dodam / Dinesh |
 Team At the Summit – Photo : Dodam / Dinesh |
 View was disturbed by Mist |
 Bowitiya |
 After spending nearly half an hour we returned back |
 On the way |
 Closer to KMP Now |
 Water stream |
We reached KMP Sharp 12.30 p.m. which means 5 hours for the whole hike. We had lunch which was prepared by our other guides. They Had prepared Rice, Fried Halmessa and Dhal curry. As instructed by me they had packed the same meal for diner too. So after some time we thanked and said good bye to Thyagaraja and our Friend Nishan as they were going to Bambarella. Then we four and our two guides thanked Nihal mama and other two in KMP and Headed towards Doowili Eli at 1.30 P.M.
 Our Team Well done our team and Thank you KMP ..We’ll Come back soon |
 Starting to get down to Duwili Eli. First we went along Ranamure track and then diverted.. |
 Not only they had been here but also had destroyed a part of KMP. So be careful |
 Thunhisgala ..A Different view |
 Destroyed Wadi |
Although there was not more than 5 kms to Duwili Ella from Kmp Wadiya there was no existing path. Our guides lead us purely with their instincts and later I knew that Kalupahana area was their second home . They knew every tree, every rock , stream , grassy land in this area . In fact the person who came from Kalupahana ( Kalu Malli ) is known to me as I had done Meemure -Ressa trail with him. Adding to that other person who came from Ranamura ( Punchi Banda ) was his Cousin Brother ( Massina). Those two Massina’s had played everywhere in kalupahana when there were no restrictions ( Cardamom processing period ) . So we had no issue in finding the path. We just had to obey their instructions.. Instead of getting down to Duwili Falls or climbing from somewhat middle in the stream they took us from a different route which was through a Pathana and reached the base of Duwili Eli from its right side. I Still can’t imagine which was the path they took us. For our utter surprise and fear we saw elephant Dung closer to base of the Duwili Ella too. Also we had to go through a Maussa forest patch. We had to extra careful but our guide took a risk and cut down those plants by clearing the path for us. In the mean time he couldn’t avoid being contacted with a trunk of a plant which is less poisonous than leaf. Even though he had a minor swelling in his hand
 No paths , Believing the guide’s instincts |
 Some clear sections too |
 Strange tree art |
 Open area |
 First remarkable water stream |
 Silent surrounding |
 Mushroom art |
 A two stream intersect …Don’t know whether this is the same place mentioned in Kishan’s report |
 Third stream |
 Beautiful..But hereafter we met a dangerous Maussa stretch ( Remember ROSA MALE NATUWE KATU ) |
 Getting to a Pathana where we saw lots of elephant Dung |
By 4.00 p.m. we reached the base of Duwili ella Which was a dream of us. Although this was my second visit my heart was filled with a fresh feeling . We decided to have a bath in the base and climb up to the cave to settle for night. After an awesome bath we reached the cave within 5-10 minutes. First thing we did was collecting plenty of firewood. Then we had a look at Famous place where you can observe the fall cascading in front you. This place is about 10m away from the place you sleep. Then we carefully collect some water , boiled and made Nescafe. then we laid some sheets on the floor of the room type section in the cave . Then we lit the camp fire and had some chit chat. Around 8.00 we had our packed dinner. After dinner we went to sleep. Till I fallen asleep I remember our guide’s stories which were their real adventures. They described the encounters they had with wild animals , ghosts etc. Although it was cold in the cave it was manageable than 2014 (in my first journey). May be due to the risen temperature in the whole world this year,
 Our Dream . Duwili Ella. This was my second visit |
 Situation of the Cave is marked in Green Arrow |
 Having some awesome bath |
 Going towards the cave |
 Looking Down from cave |
 Inside the cave . In this part you can sleep and rest without troubled by splitting water |
 You have to go nearly 10m to observe “FALL CASCADING “ |
 Here is the Dreamy place …..Dooooowili is in front of you |
 You can collect water or even have a shower by holding creepers B.U.T. AT YOUR OWN RISK…. |
 Preparing Tea – PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH |
 Starting The CAMP FIRE -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH |
 Sleeping In the cave -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH |
 Huh.. if you believe in Ghost s there is such a face marked by the circle. If you don’t It’s just a Tree art …. |
 Moonlight Directing To cave -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH |
 Dawn comes…Still moon in Dawn -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH |
 Here down Comes |
 Surrounding Mountains |
We Woke up in the morning and prepared Nescafe. Then we left the place around 7.00 a.m. We descended from the left hand side of the stream. Note the path is marked by forest department till Etanwala . After descending through the path for nearly 300m we decent to the stream which was in our right hand side. After walking little upstream we witnessed the Most beautiful fall ( To My Ranking ) in the Duwili Eli Stream. (note :Actually there is another waterfall before this but getting closer to this falls is much difficult). This was my second visit to This fall thanks to Malaka’s Magical Map.( See my Previous Report on Duwili Eli ). After spending nearly 20 minutes there we decided to go down stream. We witnessed several small cascades like the shape of ” Staircase”. Then We reached the Top of a huge fall . One can’t descend to the bottom of the falls from here. From top of this Falls there is a foot path to Ranamure . We had Bread with canned Tuna as breakfast and filled our bottles full and start descending to Ranamure around 8.30 a.m.
 Getting ready to descend |
 Surrounding Mountains |
 Wow |
 Good bye Doowili Eli …We’ll come back |
 Our Next Target |
 Calm And quite Falls….You will feel like spending whole day here purely because of calmness |
 Crystal clear water |
 Getting downstream |
 Small cascades |
 Staircase falls |
 What a scenic place . From here there is a foot path to RANAMURE |
 More cascades |
 We had breakfast here |
 Top of the fall You can’t Decent to base From here |
 Kalu Malli And Punchi Banda Hero’s Of Day Three |
After getting to Ranamure track we experienced a small ascend. Then we met a huge rock with a severe drop where you can observe surrounding mountains and grassy lands . There is a small stream too. After resting there for nearly 20 minutes we re-started the journey. After hiking for some while we met the first Pathana Land in this track . It’s Called GINIKELIYAWA PATHANA. In fact this was the largest too. There we met a bunch of cattle. They were brought here by the villagers of Ranamure in non harvesting period. As there were dead ends in this pathana they can’t move to other places . Only entrance point to this pathana is covered by using wooden Fence. After Ginikeliyawa pathana we entered a forest patch and descent. we met several streams too. Then We entered another Pathana which is called Asweddauma
 In the Ranamure Track |
 The observation point with a severe drop. The bottom grassy land is called “MANAWA ” and upper one is called ” ILUKA” |
 Note this rock |
 He was happy of taking the decision of getting down to Duwili Eli |
Panorama view
 Closer to Ginikeliyawa Pathana |
 View from Ginikeliyawa Pathana |
 Ginikeliyawa Pathana |
 Pathana and the Cattle…They were little aggressive after seeing us |
Pano view of Pathana
 Still Thunhisgala is visible |
 D O D A M B R A V O…. |
 Pathana And the mountains |
 Fence which I mentioned billow. We experienced descend after this |
 Dodam with tree Frame |
 Next Pathana which was shorter than previous ( Aswedduma Pathana ) |
 View from Aswedduma Pathana |
Panorama
After Aswedduma Pathana we experienced a continuous descend till Ranamure. on the way our guide punchi Banda showed us a small cave and we prepared our lunch there. First We boiled some water and made a soup using soup cubes. Then we prepared some instant noodles. after having our last meal in the jungle we left. Then we met a special Y junction . If somebody comes from Ranamure the left path will lead to KMP bisecting Duwili Eli. And the right path will lead to Duwili eli Streams. It took nearly one and half hours to reach Ranamure village.
 View for a person coming From Ranamure Side |
 We were going parallel to the river |
 Last Fence |
 First Sign of civilization . First house of the village is closer to here. |
After coming to the village around 2.30 p.m.Our Guide Punchi Banda Invited us to his home . We all refreshed ourselves by having a wash in a nearby stream. Punchi Banda offered us tea with biscuits. Then We thanked and said good bye to tem. Kalu Malli Helped us to pick a Three Wheeler from a village . We went to Pallegama From That and caught a Dambulla bus around 4.00 p.m. We were at Dambulla at sharp 6.00 p.m. Then we boarded to a Colombo Bus . We satisfied with some snacks as dinner. Dodam and Dinesh got down from Kadawatha as they intended to go to to Ganemulla. We got down at Dematagoda and took a three wheeler and came around 11.45 p.m.
So this is how we finished our memorable journey . There are so many discussion about “Which is the most difficult path to Duwili Falls ” Some say it’s Bambarella or Walpolamulla or even Meemure. But as a person who had done twice I would say each trail is rather difficult than other by means of unique parameters . By means of Ascend Meemure side would be tough. By means of distance and obstacles Etanwala/ Walpolamulla side is tough . But by means of getting lost I would say Bambarella/ kalupahana Trail is tough
But one thing is sure By means of the beauty and calmness This Kalupahana Area , which is almost the middle in Knuckles IS THE BEST PLACE IN KNUCKLES .
Good Bye Kalupahana We Will Come Back Soon
So We’ll Come Back Again
Thanks for reading