The Power of Raging Torrents – Tour de Waterfalls 19…

Hi folks! Hope you are ready for the next episode of Waterfall Hunting in the Uva Province. I hope you enjoyed the Day 2 and I’m going to tell you about the Day 1 & 3.

Not seeing a waterfall for some time is like living without an aim for me. I simply adore them and when it starts raining out of nowhere my mind starts to protest. Thankfully there is no Lipton Circus in my mind otherwise I would have had to call on the riots cops with water cannons, tear gas and batons to restore the law and order.

Now the rain patterns are shot to pieces making it extremely unstable and not reliable. However the downpours that started in late September seems to have more power than I thought. As a result one of my much awaited tours had to be brought forward. The waterfalls in Uva had been evading me for years mainly my focus was on elsewhere and they were too far away. I just wanted to make sure I cover as many of them as possible in one solid journey but it didn’t seem to come anytime soon.

Suddenly the rains appeared and I got tempted as usual. So I decided to seek professional advice before making the 250+km journey. When it comes to Uva, there is nobody better than Ashan. I wonder if there is a place where the fellow hasn’t been in the area. So I called to find him still honeymooning in Mullaittivu. He promised to get back as soon as he went back to Monaragala while I tried to get someone to join me.

Most of them were too busy but I was hopeful about Shareez who had come back to Sri Lanka on holiday and was ready to go for a grand journey. Last time I managed to take him to see Asupini Ella. Unfortunately he pulled out at the eleventh hour due to personal commitments leaving me in the forlorn hope that something miraculous would come by. As a matter of fact a magical thing happened. Ashan’s planned exploration to Maduru Oya got cancelled and he agreed to play the guide for me on Saturday and Sunday leaving me to fend off for myself on Friday. Something was better than nothing so I prepared in a couple of hours to leave on the wee hours of Friday.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Wisari Ella, Hunuketiya.
2. Elle Wala Ella, Randeniya.
3. Kaluwala Ella aka Ice Peella Ella, Wellawaya.
4. Buduruwagala, Wellawaya.
5. Habaraththawa Cascades, Dewathura.
6. Kandahena Cascades, Dewathura.
7. Aradunu Ella, Passara.
8. Pareiyan Ella, Badalkumbura.
9. Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls, Badalkumbura.
10. Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella, Badalkumbura.

Day 01

The Badulla bus took off slower than I wanted and my attempts to fall asleep were turned out to be futile. The sun peeped around the corner when we reached Balangoda. From there falling asleep was simply impossible coz of the gorgeous range of mountains to the left from Pettigala towards Kalupahana where Wangedigala, Balathuduwa and Gon Molliya stood proudly above the rest. Sweet memories of Bambarakanda and Nagrak came flooding to my stream of thoughts. Boy, have I enjoyed them!

I kept my eyes peeled for Brampton Falls and Surathali Ella just to get an idea about the water levels. Passing Belihul Oya what I saw pained my heart to no end. It was nothing extraordinary but a small stream slowly going downwards. “Where on earth all the water had gone?” I wanted to scream. Then came two major heartbreaks one after the other. Brampton Falls looked sad and no wider than a coconut tree. Surathali had lost her mischievous behavior and slid down the rocky crevice as if she didn’t care anymore for attention.

I was getting frantic and almost jumped out to return to Colombo. “Have patience” the calm side of my brain said. “Get the hell outta here fast” the panicky side screamed in the back of my head. I took a deep breath and weighed the options and decided to listen to the calm side. “You will be sorry” the impatient side mocked me. I’ll just go do what I’d planned to see today and return if it turned out to be hopeless, I decided and sat back to get a rest.  Finally after a long journey I reached B’Wela just after 8.30am. Without wasting any more time, I got into a Wellawaya bus and settled. Without even my knowing, I’d fallen asleep and missed seeing the Bambaragama Ella too. When I got up, we were passing the turn off to Kurullangala.

Wisari Ella

I’ll give you the directions first. Hunuketiya is about 14km from Wellawaya in Uva Karandagolla area. There is also a sign board put up by the Uva PC. Wisari Ella is on the Hunuketiya-Kurugama-Bambaragasyaya Road about 3km from Hunuketiya junction. Best method of transport is to hire a tuk-tuk from the junction. If you go in your own vehicle, by a car, you can go up to Kurugama village or with a high ground clearance vehicle all the way to Bambaragasyaya. There is also a single bus operating between Wellawaya and Kurugama (No. 998) but couldn’t get the exact times.

I did the sensible thing on Ashan’s advice and hired a tuk-tuk. The driver was a friendly person called Ranga and we drove up to the last house where you have to start walking along an irrigation canal for about 400m. The path is now well paved and easy to reach the falls. We met one Mini Hydro Power Plant and Ranga informed that it is now redundant after the main power supply came to the area and he went onto say that the village used to have three such power plants. However all of them have been made redundant since the arrival of national grid. Hurrah!!! I felt like dancing.

We could also see the rocky hill where Kurullangala is. The memories of our back-breaking journey in the recent past sent a shiver down my back. Ranga said that there’s even a path from the top of the Wisari Ella to the Rakkiththakanda Cave Temple where we went last time before the hike. Project sites of Uma Oya could be seen in the distance and the water in the streams has turned into an unusual white color after the ammonia mixed with it as a result of tunnels dug out to take water for the Uma Oya Project. That was quite visible even to the naked eye.

We got to the falls in no time but what I saw made me cry. There was very little water in her as if coming from a blocked tap. She is tall and the rocky surface is ample but the water level was abysmal. “Oh dear! Did I just come 250km after some 7hrs to see this?” I felt. This was worse than even St. Claire after the Upper Kotmale Project. “Didn’t it rain here at all?” I exclaimed out of sheer frustration. “It did but as this is not the regular season (Nov to Jan), the water levels are low” replied Ranga.

I was beginning to realize that after all the negative side was correct and I should have turned around while I could. Now it was too late and no going back until I finished the day. Look at these pictures and tell me if I was right to be frustrated.

Already dark clouds developing

Towards Badulla

Should be ready soon

Redundant power plant

Going rusty

Well maintained

Oh, not the sight I was hoping for

Abysmal, isn’t it?

When in full flow, she must look gorgeous

Portrait

The upper part

Wishing for more water and left

Gorgeous looking

Beautiful views

See anything familiar?

Kurullangala, the mysterious cave paintings

Know what they are? Amu Kaha flowers

My first thought was an Orchid

Time to go

Didn’t taste that good coz of the rain

Elle Wala Ella

We returned to Hunuketiya but on the way Ranga said that there’s a path through the jungle where it leads to the top of Elle Wala Ella. I was very excited and asked if he could find someone to take me there. Unfortunately his cousin brother didn’t share the same enthusiasm so we had to give up the idea. This path could have been one used by the Sinhala forces on their way to massacre the Portuguese invaders at Randeniwela.

I then decided to take the tuk-tuk all the way to Randeniya just to save time and trouble of having to find the falls on my own. Lemme give you the directions first.

Randeniya junction is about 3km from Wellawaya along Ella road. There is a school named J. M. Kumaradasa. With it there’s a road to the left (when coming from Wellawaya). The pillars of Iran-Sri Lanka are also located nearby should you happen to miss the school. Take this road for about 3km. You will find the reservoir for the Uma Oya is being built on the way and the road goes at the edge of the would-be water body. There is hardly anyone to ask the road so make sure you have your bearings right. You will then meet a village and take the left side path (not quite visible from the road at a glance) as soon as you pass the first house to your left. That is how we were given the directions by one of the people we met. This is where you have to leave your vehicle coz this is 3WD/4WD terrain. There are houses on either side so you can get directions. It’s another 1km before you reach the last house at the end of the road. From here you need to take the footpath (well used) parallel to the water stream (on your right) for another 400-500m to reach the destination.

I hope you got it right. So let’s go and see what she has to offer. There was nothing positive for me for the whole day since I started my journey but the moment I saw her I felt I was human after all. Two puppies followed us from the last house and they too looked awed by the beauty in front of them. She reminds me of Dunhinda (the actual one) but a smaller version. She was falling from left to right where as the original Dunhinda falls other way around.

The base pool looked huge and gradually increased the depth towards the falls. The surrounding is devoid of any disturbing activity save for a anicut built downstream to take the water but not harming the waterfall in any way. There were plenty of Kumbuk and similar trees around making it like a giant canopy shielding us from the piercing rays before the rain.

However there is one rather silly video I came across (thanks to Ashan) on YouTube I came across. It’s about something called Dual Survival where two lost people trying to find the way to civilization. In the video, one of them climbs to the top of the falls to find any humans are there but comes across a herd of jumbos. This is hilarious coz no jumbos roam in this area according to the locals. Watch it and see. All they had to do was retrace the path they took to the falls to find civilization. It proved documentaries done by even the most prominent channels could be no better than movies.

Ok guys, while in savor the first good thing for the day you can enjoy some of the pictures. As I keep reminding myself and you folks, the pictures don’t do enough justice to the beauty of these places. So just don’t judge by them by not so glamorous pictures of mine. There is very little my point-n-shoot can capture. Here we go:

There’s Elle Wala, the first glimpse

Our guides

Very shady and soothing

Finally some happy thoughts

Base pool gradually increases its depth

Closer look

Portrait

Sandy floor

Downstream

Found a delicacy

Couldn’t get enough of

See the dam built for diverting water?

Pipelines

Closer look

Different angle

The view was spectacular

Ranga, the tuk-tuk fellow who roamed around with me

Time to say bye

Kaluwala Ella aka Ice Peella Ella

After a good 30-40mins we left for Wellawaya. Ranga decided to take me all the way which suited me just fine. This is when Ashan called and said that he’s going for a bath there with a couple of friends. We arrived at Wellawaya and while I was pondering what to do, Ranga said that he would take me to the place. It was a good idea coz I was not in the mood for bargaining with tuk-tuk fellows. Here are the directions:

This is located about 1.5-2km from Wellawaya along Koslanda road near the Water Pump Station which is popularly known as the Ice Peella Pompagaraya. Just look for the No. 215/3 Bokkuwa. There is a tiny footpath between the pump station and the adjacent house to the right. Take this and it’ll circle to the back of the pump station and you will come to a narrow concrete canal built across the stream which is about 25ft below.

This is where all your gymnastic skills will come into play. The canal is about a foot and a half each in width and depth. Either side the concrete walls are about 5-6 inches wide. Yeah inches not feet. You have to balance on this (remember no getting into the canal) for another 30ft to reach the safety of the other end. For those who still don’t get what I am trying to tell you, just imagine walking along the iron bars on the railway line only about 1/3 in width. My legs shook so bad I had to caress them a bit and do a little pep talk. They kept refusing but the urge to see this beauty overpowered the unsteadiness of the legs.

I got on to the concrete and didn’t look back or up until I was on the other side. Just as I was heaving a sigh of relief, the legs reminded me of the return journey. Stopping the breath in mid-air, I followed the water to a leak in the canal. All this is about 200m from the main road even though I try to make it like 20km. This is when I met Ashan and his friends coming after a bath. They kept on coz he had work till late and I urged Ranga forward.  Here go downhill to the right until the base of the falls. This is a rare beauty with a large base pool and another rock pool on the top.

The water level was not so bad and I was beginning to change my mind about going back to Colombo. Well, it was one of the wisest things I’ve ever done in my life coz the journey ended after 17 waterfalls. Almost all of them looking rich and glamorous. So the lesson you have to learn is always weigh a situation when faced in a dilemma and listen to your calm side. The temptation to have a cool dip was so much but I felt that Ranga was in a hurry so decided against it and got back to the path once again crossing the canal with legs playing all the guitars from Rhythm to Base. I’m sure you’re itching to see the pictures and here they are. Next I’m gonna take you to a place quite different from the theme of the journey. An archeological site which is known all over the world for its craftsmanship like at Aukana and Res Vehera.

It’s behind this premises

Water treatment plants

Another

Where we had to go

Just before the falls

There she is

Looking at the rocky wall, she must get very wide during heavy rains

Lots of tree cover

Portrait

Safe enough for bathing

Let’s go up

From the top

Downstream

The water pool on the top of falls

Nice and shallow for people like me

Time to go

Huge ones

Shady path parallel to the stream

Ranga had no problem

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala is located about 6km from Wellawaya along Thanamalwila road. Near the main road you can see the Buduruwagala Archeological Museum but the main archeological site is another 4km from the main road passing the Buduruwagala Tank. The charcoal grey clouds had developed over Ella mountains and were on their way to the southeast where we were. I bid farewell to Ranga and thanked him for the help and guidance. I got into a Thanamalwila bus amid the not-so-friendly gestures of the conductor. It was around 2pm and the bus was crowded with school children.

It is only Rs. 15/- to Buduruwagala and I spent a restless quarter hour trying to make sure I don’t miss the Buduruwagala junction. Finally I managed to make my way out of the bus after a lot of wriggling. I was in two minds whether to go to the museum or the archeological site. Finally I decided to go to the archeological site as it was the most important thing. I hired another tuk-tuk and made our way to the magical location. Chamika, the tuk-tuk fellow, seemed quite a nice person and we chatted along. After about 15 mins we arrived at the site to find four buses of school kids (two groups) swarming around. Fortunately one group was just leaving and I asked Chamika to come with me to visit the stone sculptures.

It’s about 400m walk to the place along a beautifully done path. We rushed to beat the school kids coz I wanted some decent pictures of the statues without having to wrestle with a bunch of playful kids. However you hardly have a chance with a bunch of let-loose kids. After a few pictures they invaded the site running all over. I was glad that the ground was sandy not muddy coz they would have turned it into a ploughed paddy field in seconds from the way they ran around. Chamika said that they would be gone sooner than they arrived and for me to stay put. So I sat at one corner and concentrated on the sculptures.

There are 7 in all. Two groups of three either side of the main Buddha Statue in the middle. Like at Res Vehera, the makers had either not been able to or purposely left them bringing forward from the granite wall. They are carved into a huge rock about 100ft in length and more than 50ft in height. The Buddha Statue here is 51ft high and considered to be one of the tallest in the world especially after the brutal and extremist attack on Bahamian Buddha Statues in Afghanistan. Just like to the LTTE, see what happened to those ruthless killers.

On the right of the Buddha Statue (to your left) is the Avalokitesvara (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left of this white-painted figure is a female figure thought to be his consort, Tara. Local legend says the third figure represents Prince Sudhana. Moving onto the other side, the crowned figure at the centre of the group is thought to be Maitreya, the future Buddha. To his left stands Vajrapani, who holds a Vajra (an hourglass-shaped Thunderbolt Symbol) – an unusual example of the Tantric side of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. The figure to the left may be either Vishnu or Sahampath Brahma. Several of the figures hold up their right hands with two fingers bent down to the palm – a beckoning gesture. For a comprehensive reading, please read the article on Wikipedia and Amazing Lanka.

Just as Chamika predicted the kids vanished as they found very little excitement looking at the stone statues leaving me to enjoy the ingenuity of our forefathers. I’m gonna share them with you.

Trying to beat the large crowds

Please adhere by all means

We almost ran past these

There it is

Closer view

To the left of the main statue

The middle one looks as if it had been coated with some kinda plaster

To the right

Center one

Side angle

Oh god, finally they were all over

The teachers had a time getting them to sit and pose for a picture

Surrounding

Finally some space

See the carvings

Back to the left side

Is that a tiny Buddha Statue on the middle of the head dress?

This was huge and reminded me of Aukana and Res Vehera

Full view

Some peace for the place after the raucous crowd

The rain was imminent

Good day’s work

Spotted purely by chance

See you again

We then left this grand place and got back on the road. Chamika was hooked on the phone and paid very little attention to my questions. So whenever I want him to stop, just a pat on the shoulder. We saw remains of another Buddhist temple with a Dagoba and stone pillars some way before the main complex. And I got him to stop at the Buduruwagala tank as well. Here are some of the pictures and I can hear Ashan’s calling impatiently. Gotta hurry up and get to the Buduruwagala junction.

The canals leading to Buduruwagala

Rains have taken care of them

Waiting game

Buduruwagala Tank

There it is

Got a nice view point

Isolated

Greenery

Done for the day

Rain is imminent

Very true

The Dagoba I told you about

Here it is

Closer look

Standing on the top

More to excavate and see

I met Ashan and went to Monaragala where I’d spend the night. Well, don’t expect anything from tomorrow coz I’ve already told you guys about it. If you wanna refresh the memories, check out the Day 02 on this link. Well, on day three, we’re going to see some more beautiful girls and it is going to be Ashan’s farewell for them as well having been in Monaragala for so long, he’s due a transfer to Chilaw (will have been transferred by the time you read this and probably done a half a dozen tours as well).

On the day 02, we reached Dewathura, another beautiful and isolated village surrounded by the mountains in the Namunukula Range. To reach there, take the Passara-Palwatta Road till the 11th km post. Just there take the right uphill turn for another 6km and you will be in Dewathura and mark my words, it’s gonna wow you to no end. It was raining cats and dogs when we reached there. Well there was nothing else to do but have a sumptuous dinner and tuck in for the night. The distant noise of the Dewathura Oya put us to sleep and I slept like a hibernating grizzly bear. Come in the morning for another roller coaster ride.

Day 03

Somebody walking around woke me and as I peeped out of my thin-layered sleeping bag I saw Ashan moving about and the time had gone past 5am. “Go back to sleep. There is more time” was I remembered just before falling asleep once again. When I got up again it was well gone by 6am and I wriggled out of the sack holding me. The sun was coming up over the mountains but from where we were there was precious little to see the morning show.

I came back and had a wash coz the rains and the dew usually leave their prints on the soft petals and green leaves in the shape of droplets of water. While I was washing I heard Ashan saying that he’d been busy trying to shake the water off the leaves and petals. “What a wicked thing you’ve done” I screamed but realized that he was trying to take the mickey out of me when I ran out into the garden.

The mountains in the distance looked amazing and below them about 100m from where I stood was a paddy field with its typical green coat on. My under feat felt cold due to the dew on the grass and many flowers smiled at me as if trying to make me feel better. The dew was there all over the plants, leaves and the colorful flowers. I was just getting crazy wondering where to start. Pink rose petals were like cheeks of a new born baby girl. They had many droplets of dew clinging lovingly to the soft tissue like petals. I wanted to feel them but was scared to touch them. The whole garden smelled of fresh dew, grass and flowers invigorating my mind and the soul.

Well, I know I’m making you jealous and you should be coz this is not something you get to see everyday. Here are the pictures for you to enjoy. Oh just forgot to tell you about the juicy guava which were waving for my attention. I just jumped up and scooped up a few and popping one in and chewing slowly I realized how tasty they were. They were from a different world, gosh I want more.

Good morning!

Where we stayed

Here we go, Ashan probably shook these off

Ginger

Plenty of them

Sign of dew

Oh just look at that color

Not ready to bloom yet

Not ripe enough otherwise you wouldn’t have seen this

Drenched birds’ nest

Water was all over them

Almost touching the ground

See the dew all over?

More

Like a glass flower

Guava, very juicy and tasty

We had them after the picture

Gorgeous red

I went mad trying to take pics of all

Bougainvillea

Central Dispensary, Dewathura

Here it is

See who it is?

Resting after breakfast

Paddy fields

Gorgeous but rains have ruined the crops a lot

See the hut?

There, looks strongly built

Still more to grow

Time for the waterfalls

Habaraththawa Ella

After a good hour or so of my enjoying the guava and the beauty of this remote village we decided to go for the first waterfall of the day. She’s been named as Habaraththawa Ella by Ashan coz the place where she is known as Habaraththawa. She originates from Dewathura Oya that starts from Namunukula Mountain. It’s easy to find coz everyone in the village knows it. Located about 1-2km off the main road where the last stretch (800-1000m) you need to go on foot. The turn off is near a cement built bus stop about 1km before the Dewathura Central Dispensary.

We drove on and parked at the last house before we had to take it on foot. The walk along the leech infested path was no trouble and I was impatient to see this beautiful falls. When we got to the flowing Dewathura Oya, I just couldn’t take my eyes off of what I saw. Here in front of my eyes was a scene I dearly would love to see anywhere and anytime. This not-so-tall fall was jumping over a wide rocky wall creating a white cloth full of silken threads.

“Oh my gosh!” was all I managed to utter before firing the shutter button until Ashan laughingly said that this is not the real fall. “What do you mean? Is there another falls here?” I asked feeling anxious. “Right over there” he pointed downstream where the water fell into a deep gorge. We had to be extremely careful not to slip and fall into the fast flowing water or hitting the rocks scattered around. While we do that you check these out. I can’t afford to lose concentration now.

Where we parked our vehicle

Mountains in the distance

The boy behind said “Amme ayyage photo gaththa”

It may be a rural village but the creativity is not lost

If only you know the trouble we took to take this single shot

Tiny ones

The leech-infested path

Japanese umbrella?

Dewathura Oya

The upper cascade

Oh looks really good

Wow

One sexy lady

Like a set of threads falling in unison

The base pool is huge but deep too

Through the blocks

She was so beautiful I couldn’t get enough of her

Another close up

Spent quite a long time with her

Well, guess time to go see her elder sister

After slipping and sliding down, we managed to get to the top of where the water fell and here was a taller and gorgeous lady. I pinched myself in the left arm to make sure this wasn’t a fairy tale dream. “Please let this be real not another of my dreams” I pleaded and “aawh” I gasped at the bite my nails made on the exposed biceps. But the joy I felt overpowered the pain coz this was for real and I was there in person and what I was seeing the real thing not a hallucination.

She is tall and playful as she curved around before falling onto the rocks below. “I want to go down” I told Ashan who was balancing carefully on a rock which was very slippery. “No can do. We have to cross the river but not when she’s in a raging mood”. He was right and the fattened up body of Dewathura Oya looked very dangerous to be messing around. I looked around frantically for a way down but none safe way was available. However I managed to get about 5ft down to another rock hanging onto a wine where I got a decent look. Last time Ashan had come, he’d been able to get to the base but the water levels were very low compared to now.

This was a long and pure white flow of water. I just looked mesmerized by her playful ways. Every minute felt like a second as time flew past me but I simply didn’t want to leave. Here was a sensual and adorable virgin that was worth looking again and again for the rest of the day. However as always it looks as if it always drags us from the best of the things rather quickly while the sorrows seem to stay on forever. Feeling both elated and sad at the same time, we turned around to go for the next beauty waiting for us. Remember; never leave a gorgeous girl waiting for you too long. Here are the pictures you are craving for.

The top

Slanting along the rocky surface

It was tough to get the whole length in one shot

See the base

No chance to get there

The best shot with the whole falls

Top part

Glistening in the sunlight

Hugging to the rocks

Dewathura Oya was rich and dancing

Wish they were edible

“The God Must Be Crazy VII”

It was cool to be among the filtering rays

Superb

Had to spend a long time to capture him

Saying bye

A million-dollar worth pic

Kandahena Ella

Like the Habaraththawa Ella, this was named by Ashan as she is located in Kandahena Estate. She originates from a stream that starts from Namunukula Mountain. Here are the directions for it but should be no trouble to find her either.

Take the road to Kandahena Tamil School No. 2 (there is a concrete road that is off the main road running through the tea plantation) and go past it up to the sign board “Kandahena Tea Nursery”. The road after about a couple of hundred meters is simply not drivable except in a 4WD. Fortunately we were in one and swaying from side to side as if we were in a choppy sea, we drove on while students from the school looked surprisingly at us. From the sign (a good place to leave your vehicle if you were foolish enough to take it that far) go straight through the gate and then turn left at the line houses and follow the trail. Remember that the road you followed up to the sign is continuing with a sharp bend to the left. If you have the time, follow it and it will bring you to the top of the falls and farther higher up is the Kandahena Tamil School No. 1. You simply don’t understand the difficulties until you go there in person and I just can’t imagine the plight of the kids who have to traverse the rugged terrain probably in just a pair of flip flops.

The path will take you after another couple of hundred meters to a place where you can see the falls in the distance. The trail was muddy and we got bogged down a few times but managed to free ourselves without muddying the socks. Here was a fall with a relatively bigger and taller upper part and many small cascades as she plunges down. The trail we were taking had been a fairly wide estate road but now overgrown into a tiny footpath due to the minimal use by people let alone vehicles. Here are some distant shots both zoomed in and out.

On the move

Ran and hid behind the mother

Line house you have to turn left

Droplets on the leaf

Furry

She’s there and this is the actual distance

Zooming in

Reminded me of Wee Oya Ella

Perfect frame

Managed to find a better place

The top part

Bottom

Ok, let’s get closer

Wonder if this is a trap

Full package

We then walked up to a wide bridge signaling this had indeed been a large jeep track. The cascades went under the bridge making some more downstream. However the view of the top was somewhat blocked due to the close proximity of us standing closer to it. “Shall we climb up and see if there is a good view?” asked Ashan and I didn’t want a second invitation. So we climbed on all fours like land crabs holding onto the rocks and roots of grass bushes. Mana blades scraped our already smarting (after the Rodakdanguwa Ella experience) exposed skins mercilessly. But their resistance was just a trifle compared to our determination to get up there.

After slipping a countless times, we finally reached a good vantage point where it offered a grand view of the top section and a couple of other segments. After a while, we decided to get back onto the solid ground but found it was gonna be tougher than we anticipated. Do you remember what happens to the cats, leopards and most of the feline family that are silly enough to climb up trees? They simple don’t know how to get down and were faced with a similar a dilemma. So why don’t you enjoy these pictures while we do the climbing down?

Up close, covered with the rock and we gotta get up there

See that

Only the top part is visible when zoomed

Cascade just below the main one

Closer look

Another one (the third in overall from the top)

Here’s the fourth cascade

Portrait of that

The fifth one

The bridge where we started climbing up

Just near the bridge and we couldn’t get below the bridge to see the rest of the cascades

Towards Monaragala and South East

Our Jeep aka CTB Bus waiting for us

Black & White

Aradunu Ella

Our next attraction for the day was Aradunu Ella in Passara which is according to Ashan is the headquarters of Piaggio tuk-tuks. So we returned to Dewathura and had breakfast before driving fast to Passara. If you had read Ashan’s report, there is a hydro power plant which is run using the water of Aradunu Ella. If you’re to see healthy levels of water one needs to go there before 8am. We spent so long with beauties of Dewathura and the time was past 10am.

While we were wondering whether or not to visit Aradunu Ella (I had no intention of visiting a dried up rocky wall), Ashan came up with an idea. He’d the telephone number of one of the workers at the power plant and we called to check the situation. Fortunately he answered after a frightening delay and to the joy of us said that there’s ample water despite diversion to the power plant. We drove faster not wanting to miss this great lady.

Aradunu Ella originates from Loggal Oya which then flows separating Kohonawala from Badulla side. To get to the falls, take Madolsima Road from Passara for just over 2km and take the left turn at the name board. Then take the left on that road at the first Y point and then a right when you come to a shed which is about 200m from the main road. From here stick to the right and walk for about 1.8km at the edge of the tea estate. However you will have to keep checking the directions coz it’s hard to give you exact directions due to the nature of the estate road. However if you happen to come to a place where the towering Namunukula is in front of you and a deep ravine below with paddy fields, you have gone too far. We too got as far in the jeep and decided to walk back.  Just back track and take the road that goes downhill to the left or right depending on how you go. We lost it a few times even though Ashan had been here twice before but some two years ago. Fortunately we got lucky and found a person to get the correct directions.

Alternatively you could take the Passara RMV Road which meets the former path about 1km before the power plant and the falls. We walked down hearing the roar of Aradunu Ella in the distance. The closer we came, the louder she fell. I was as excited as a boy who is going to see his girlfriend on their first date. Finally we saw the roof of the power plant and a notice warning against bathing in the base pool. We had no such idea and crashed through the bushes almost falling headlong into the viewing point. “Oh my my” was all I seemed to manage recently when coming face to face with such beautiful and graceful ladies.

The worker was right coz there was so much water even though they had diverted a large amount to generate electricity. She was simply truly amazing and worth every trouble we took to visit her. We just sat on a rock and admired the sheer beauty in front of our eyes. I knew for sure this was no dream and felt very happy about it. Well, I won’t keep you guessing for long and here are the pictures.

Sign board at the Madolsima Road

Gorgeous Namunukula… If you’ve come this far, you gotta turn around and take the first left downhill path

To the right of her

Left of her

Valley down below

Gem mining goes on with backhoes despite the ban

Couldn’t resist taking more of her

Re-tracing our steps

This is the point where the Madolsima trail (to the right uphill one) and Passara RMV trail (from where this pic taken) meet. You need to go towards Ashan

You can see the roof of the power plant

She’s a beauty, ain’t she?

Beginning of the endless pic journey

Portrait

Base pool

So much water despite the water diversion

Lower section

Goes downstream

Tiny pools like these are inviting for a bath

After using by the power plant

Wide angle

Closer view

Rocky gorge where water gushing down

Felt like flying

Time to go

Trustworthy companion waiting patiently

Pareiyan Ella

Our next target was the Pareiyan Ella in Badalkumbura. We were tired after the hike up and down to the Aradunu Ella and the sun was scorching hot making us sweat profusely. “It’s gonna rain sooner than yesterday” Ashan predicted but I yearned for him to be wrong like our Met Department. Well later it would prove that he was right about it. We took the Passara-Badalkumbura road which was under construction. About half of it is fully completed but so much more to do.

We lemme give you the directions first. Pareiyan Ella originates from Menik Ganga and is one of the unorthodoxly beautiful waterfalls in Sri Lanka. If you care for such beauty, take the Badalkumbura-Buttala road for about 4.5km then take the right turn with a sign announcing Pareiyan Ella thanks to the Uva PC. Follow this road for about 2km before turning to the right towards a house where you have to leave your vehicle. Look for a small sign stuck on a tree saying “Ella” at the turn. You had better keep checking the directions from the locals just to be on the safe side.

From the house take the path to the right with steps all the way to the river. Follow the river downstream along the left bank till the Pareiyan Ella. It’s about 400m walk. We were initially planning to buy some lunch from Badalkumbura and have it at the Pareiyan Ella after a bath in the river where there is a safe bathing spot as soon as you reach the water. However the weather changed faster than a couple of movie stars changing their clothes in the songs leaving us with very little choice.

We decided to skip lunch and drove to the falls. As soon as we stopped the vehicle, we knew the rain was imminent but rushed down the steps. Ashan had a small umbrella which is excellent when taking pictures in the rain so long as winds are mild. Unfortunately I was without one except my raincoat (just didn’t cross my mind to take one all the way from Colombo) which is useless when trying to take pictures unless you have a waterproof camera.

We reached the Menik Gang that was gushing down with a manic (rhymes beautifully ain’t it? – manic Menik Ganga) energy. We followed the trail and reached the base of the falls as the sky opened up their flood gates. It added to the havoc wreaked by the raging water and we were stranded under a tiny umbrella. Pareiyan Ella looked chocolate brown due to the soil eroding power of the water but not less in beauty. We took turns taking pictures of the falls covering our cameras. The rains kept on making our pictures cris-crossed with falling water drops. After a lot of futile attempts, we managed to take a few decent shots and Ashan pointed at a set of carved steps into the rocky wall other side of the river.

According to the folklore, this had been done by a king when he sought refuge here and enjoyed his water sports near the waterfall. Our kings managed to live in style whether they were in power or hiding from the invaders. A quality which has evolved and being used even today by the politicians whether they are in power or in the opposition. Here are the pictures.

Turn off here

At the river

Rocky formation, more pics later

Just look at her

The rain was intense

Closer view

Mixture of muddy brown and white

Will have to come back

See the steps to the left of the rock just below the tree line

The river was raging downhill

Another day and time, this would’ve made a beautiful place to camp

Ashan said that going to see the Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella is very dangerous as we had to go downstream of the river. A task which would have ripped us apart to pieces in a single wrong movement. So quite sadly, I agreed and got back into the trail and reached the top of Pareiyan Ella. The rain seemed to lessen and we thought of waiting to see what would happen. While we were waiting, we took these pictures. Note the brick red color of the granite here which is unusual but gorgeous.

Happened to come across them

Rain drops hanging

Very tiny

Top of the right hand section

Closer

It was so slippery

You can see the base of it too

The rocky boulder separating them prevented us getting a glimpse of the other part

The top of her

The base

Wide angle

Rains have stopped and must go back

The river goes down

Rocks with vivid colors

Some more

Very slippery

Little bit of sunlight

Up stream

Ok, time to go see without rain blockade

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls

This was the last in line of my marathon waterfall hunt but the ferocity of the river made it next to impossible and deadly dangerous. Even though we gave up the idea to visit her, it kept nagging at the back of our minds. Finally the rains eased and I suggested we go take some more pictures of the Pareiyan Ella. Ashan was reluctant but followed me yet. He was suffering from the same frustration as of me not being able to go see this beauty having come so close. Not to forget this was his farewell to the virgins of Uva. He then suggested we try to get downstream walking through the jungle parallel to the river. Well I guess you know me well enough not to miss anything like that. So while I took a couple of clear pictures of the Pareiyan Ella, Ashan went in search of a way. Care to see more pictures of the Pareiyan Ella?

Here we are

Need to be careful to tackle here

How’s that?

Awesome

Portrait

Let’s go explore the others

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella is about 200-300m downstream from Pareiyan Ella. That is if you follow the river. However we were trying to find an alternative route through the jungle bordering the river and I heard Ashan shouting that it is not difficult to get through the jungle.

So we started to follow the river along the left bank for Dunhinda Ella. Remember this was dry zone and its forests are notoriously famous for poisonous snakes so we had to be extremely careful. The ground was full of fallen and decaying leaves which sank under our weight as much as a foot. Snakes like resting under these leaves so every step was a real danger.

The last time Ashan visited here with Kasun, there was very little water and they had been able to walk along the river to the top of Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella. The situation was vastly different now and we kept on keeping the river about 50-100m from us to the right. Having walked for about 400m (which felt like 40km) we decided to follow a dried up stream down to the river. The rocks were slick with green slime and all of a sudden Ashan jumped back shouting there was a snake.

Oh dear, the only thing we wanted right now but he said it was a relatively low venomous one known as “Kunakatuwa” or Hump-Nosed Viper. However had it bitten, things would have been far from complicated. Thankfully he spotted just in time. Wanna see a picture? See how camouflaged the fellow is.

Can you see it?

Dangerous pose

We shaking like fever patients descended the rest circumventing the snake and bingo, at the water with a beautiful waterfall. I thought this was the Dunhinda Ella but Ashan said she’s at the far side. So I just used the name Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls very much like the original Dunhinda Ella in Badulla who has a little sister downstream. This was falling in the middle of the very wide rocky wall and there was a tiny cave behind the body of water. Lemme show her to you and tell me if all the dangers and risks though calculated ones, we took were worth it.

I thought this was the original falls

She’s in a nice setting

If only there was more water, she’d look like Sera Ella

Time to go see her elder sister

“Let’s go” Ashan kept saying

“Well, one more” I kept saying

“Oh, another” I kept delaying him

Rocky cave in front of the Dunhinda Ella

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella

After a while, Ashan urged me to make a move to Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella. We could barely see a Niagara like body of falling towards the other side of the river with a thunderous bang. So we circled the river bank which was full of washed down garbage, plastic bottles, clothes, etc. Then walking through a 10ft high rocky boulders we got the first proper glimpse of this hidden beauty.

“Holy, Moly, Macaroni!” we screamed in unison. This was a big one and a ferocious one too. The water was so fierce it tried to tear the solid granite walls into pieces. She was white but like a school girl who had spent too much time in the playground rather than the classroom, had brownish stains scattered around the dress.  She surely looked naughty but lovable all the same.

We got closer to her and spent a long time staring at the beauty of the most beautiful thing we had seen on the day. Ashan kept asking if I was impressed. Well he can say that again coz impressed doesn’t even come closer to express my true feelings. I want to impress you too and here’s how. Before that, this was the perfect farewell for Ashan and the grandeur ending I was hoping for.

Just look at that

Must get closer

She’s gorgeous

Clearer ground

Getting closer

Some more

Much more to capture

Slightly tinged with muddy brown

Portrait

She was too wide for the frame at times

Oh yeah

Raging river downstream

Little sister through the trees

One more look before leaving her

Custard mushroom

Pareiyan Ella in the distance

Oh, what a window?

Typical wild flowers

Ready to say good bye

One last look

Well guys and gals, what do you think? Tell me if you’re as ecstatic as I am. I just couldn’t get enough but all good things come to an ending so very sadly we bid farewell to this sensational creature of the Mother Nature. I’m sure she felt sad too seeing us leaving so soon but we had no other choice.

The return journey was quicker but more frightening as we kept trying to evade the snake which came across and any others. Finally we reached Pareiyan Ella and said goodbye once again. Afterwards we traced our way back to the jeep feeling over the moon but exhausted physically beyond imagination. We then realized we were ravenous and drove to Buttala and had a hearty meal.

Afterwards Ashan dropped me at Monaragala where I was to take a bus to Colombo. So bidding him farewell and thanking for the guidance and help, I got into a bus. The driver had very little sense of music as the same CD of Shelton Muthunamage (16 songs) were played again and again for the next 6hrs. They kept ringing in my ears even after one week.

Well folks, I just can’t believe I was that lucky. Hope you all like what we saw and enjoyed it as much. Thanks for your patience in reading through the mile long fairy tale and hopefully will see with another before long. Until then this is Sri signing off.

Take care!