Year and Month | July, 2013 (07th to 08th) |
Number of Days | Two Day Trip |
Crew | 3 (between 30-38 years of age) |
Accommodation | Morgan’s Place, Great Western |
Transport | Night Mail to Great Western, By Bus / Train, On Foot |
Activities | Photography / Waterfall hunting |
Weather | Heavy Rains with hardly any Sunlight |
Route | Colombo Fort -> GW -> Wagatoda -> Pundaluoya -> Talawakele -> Kotagala -> GW -> Talawakele -> St. Claire -> Devon -> Hatton -> Colombo via Avissawella |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
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Author | SriAbey |
Comments | Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread |
“Happy Birthday to You,
Happy Birthday to You,
Happy Birthday Dear Sri de Lakdasun,
Happy Birthday to You…”
Clap, clap, clap…
-It’s been a year ever since Sri de Lakdasun was born and I wanted to celebrate his first birthday in an unforgettable way. He’s now beginning to stand on his own and even say a few words such as: Waterfall, Hike, Mountain, etc. It’s been so nice watching him grow bit by bit and learn things as the time goes on.
During the last year, he came across so many wonderful nature lovers and learned many things making his learning process speed up big time. So a very big “Thank You” should go to all the members who’ve helped him and given motivational and constructive feedback.
He’d have loved to send you each a piece of cake but it turned out nearly impossible so decided to give you all a treat for your eyes.-
Great Western – This Fairy Land on Earth can’t be a stranger to you, had you read my report “Soldiering onto Greater Hikes – Great Western”. During my first visit there, climbing her amid so many hardships, Harinda and I kept asking Morgan (Our reliable guide) what other options are there for us to see around GW.
He then pointed out Pundaluoya, Nanuoya, Ambewela, Pattipola and Talawakele where they harbor so many waterfalls. I started dreaming about them ever since. After our Balangoda journey, I was very keen to go see some more waterfalls coz Kalthota Doovili Ella and Diyawini Ella aroused my penchant for waterfalls.
Unfortunately Harinda timely decided to join forces with his new job and missed out. It left only Kumaraya and I decided to take him on board coz he really is a “Jolly Baduwak” (according to Tony). The incessant rains kept me worried all along coz didn’t wanna risk getting my plans washed out to downpours.
“Stop worrying Sri, you can’t do anything about the weather. But you certainly can do something about your trip and plans”. That’s my inner self trying hard to console me. Coz all I could do was playing the devil’s advocate.
Finally I decided to do it regardless of the weather and fixed the date for Sat 06 July. To make matters worse, the night mail was fully booked on the 5th night and I had to settle for the second best, which was 06th night making the exploration on 07 July. Bad sign and I could feel the pins and needles returning. However, Prince was confident that we could do it and as I’d always boasted, the rain had nearly always taken very kindly towards me. So the odds were looking pretty good but when I called Morgan he felt otherwise. He warned us to be ready for rain and getting wet which fell in deaf ears. I left for Fort station on 06th evening and Morgan suddenly called and said to bring an umbrella with us. I had to call Prince and get him bring one instead.
To our horror, the railway cafeteria was closed due to some tender issues and we were left with nothing to have for dinner but a packet of Hawaiian cookies and some water. As beggars can’t be choosers, we decided to have as much water as possible and try to kip down. The journey was uneventful except for “Kumarayage Agiya Katha” which is very familiar to our Moon Walkers. This time I was the prey coz there was no one for him to say all his stories and I had to listen to the modern version of “Arabian Nights (One Thousand and One Nights”. I’m seriously beginning to wonder if he might be the reincarnation of that person who said all those stories.
Mercifully on and off he fell asleep leaving me enough time to dream about my pretty waterfalls. Around 2.00am Morgan got into the train (he was selling coffee for the night travelers) at Hatton.
We reached GW around 2.55am (about 10mins late. What an achievement for those battered engines and wagons) and left for Morgan’s house about 1km away from the station to wait till morning. His wife very kindly offered some hot tea and we drank gleefully and got our heads down for the remainder of the night.
Tour Highlights:
- Short Rail Hike at GW
- Dansinane and Sheen falls, Pundaluoya
- St. Claire falls, Pathana, Talawakele
- Devon falls, Talawakele
Morning brought showers and winds making it near impossible to get out of the house. The mist covered the GW Mountain completely and I knew we were in trouble.
Rail Hike at GW
However, after a cold bath, Morgan took us on a short rail hike towards the Mountain Trek in the rain till his wife prepared our breakfast. There were many tiny cascaded coming down from the GW Mountain due to the rain for the past one and half months.
The walk was not too bad as we had our umbrellas with us while Prince in his waterproof jacket was continuously on the lookout for leeches. GW Mountain was serenely looking down on us as if to recall our hike a while back. However she chose not to show herself (must be because Kumaraya was there) covering with her misty shawl.
To my amazement, we saw railway workers coming towards GW in an over flowing rail cart (Dakkuwa) even though it was a Sunday. We walked for about an hour before heading back to Morgan’s for breakfast. His wife served us hot, hot rice and curry with Coconut Sambol and gave us a pack of Roti and Luni Miris for lunch.
Dansinane and Sheen falls, Pundaluoya
However, the rain spoiled my initial plan of doing a rail hike from GW to Watagoda. Instead we decided to take the Colombo bound train to Watagoda then take a bus to Pundaluoya. When we got off at Watagoda, there was a gang of kids who were very curious about my constant snapping at everything and I decided to take pic of them and put them out of their misery.
Morgan got them to stand and smile while I took a pic and had to show each and every one. They all were mesmerized to see themselves on my camera screen and made some unintelligible sounds. We saw Prince running to a nearby shop and coming with a tub of Siddhalepa for leeches. That fella is seriously suffering from Leechophobia. He was busily applying Siddhalepa everywhere even on his boots, I was trying my best not to laugh at him.
We caught a CTB bus and were on our way in no time. The road was curvy with hair pin bends and kept getting narrower making it very difficult for two vehicles to pass each other. One the left hand, it was about 300ft deep ravine while on the right hand it was the menacingly looking rocky wall. It’s a bit of an adventure full of anxious feelings as to what lays ahead.
We came across many seasonal cascades along the way but as usual the driver wouldn’t look at me knowing what’s in my head. I had to restraint myself to the seat not to get up and jump from the bus. Wish I could walk all the way there or had my own vehicle.
Having reached Pundaluoya, we started to walk on N’Eliya road as there were no buses. About 600-800m from the town, the road folks in two and there’s a sign board with an arrow pointing towards the road on the left which goes uphill and we too that. However I wanted to check with someone and he pointed the lower road and when we went down about 100m, there was a garage. To be doubly sure, we asked them and they pointed the upper road which we had taken initially according to the arrow. I was getting so worked up.
It started to rain cats and dogs, in between an elephant or two, and we soon sought shelter at a nearby hardware shop. From there we could see the top of the mountain and a tiny cascade (which turned out to be the very top of Sheen falls). When the rain stopped after about 20 mins we hurried uphill and soon saw twin falls falling either side parallel to each other. When inquired from a conductor of a Pundaluoya-Nuwaraeliya bus, he said the first fall (on your left hand side) is the Sheen falls and the other Dunsinane falls.
The view was breath taking from the road amid tea plantations and it was like a scene from heaven. There was no sign showing a path towards the falls even though you can clearly see them from the main road just like St. Claire from Hatton-Talawakele road. However, the rain and the mist kept it very difficult to get a clear pic so I decided to walk through the tea plantation towards the falls. This was about 1.5-2km from the junction when you meet a bridge. Just next to that on your left hand side the path is seen. The leeches started attacking us and Prince kept running and brushing like a Madman and it was hilarious to watch him like that.
I completely shut myself from outside distractions, completely concentrating on the waterfalls and taking some good shots. Leeches troubled me less and I went about 200m towards the river which flows at the end of the tea plantation. Then it was time to run back onto the safety of the tarred road. When we reached the road, couple of villagers was passing by and they said there’s the actual path lies further up next to another bridge. They also warned the path is infested with hundreds of leeches and Prince wouldn’t hear any of my appeals to venture into that one.
There were no buses to get back to the town so we thought of walking further up and getting more pic opportunities, but rain kept pelting down on us like stones on a roofing sheet. We came to a shed where there’s a cemetery and the hut is used to keep the coffin till the religious ceremonies are over. We had no choice but to wait there to stay away from rain and adjoining it was a hut where they bring and weigh the tea leaves but the roof was leaking like a sieve.
Fortunately, there was a tuk-tuk with one fellow in it but the driver agreed to drop us at the town and took only 50/- coz he hardly had to use petrol coz of the downhill journey. Morgan kept referring to it as “Govt Gear” which costs you nothing. Back at the town around 12.30pm, there were no buses to Talawakele and we had to wait 1 hour for a bus and it stayed there another 45mins before leaving wasting nearly two precious hours of our exploring time. Yuck, yuck, yucky…
When we were nearing the Talawakele town, I suddenly saw a huge waterfall gushing many million gallons of water and Morgan said it was the Devon Falls. Oh my goodness, so much water and I felt very happy inside knowing she was our next destination. It took forever to reach the town and I kept craning out of the window to get a better view of her.
Having reached the town around 3.30pm, we got into a Hatton bus in the hope of getting down at Pathana where Devon falls is located. We hardly started our journey when the mother of all rains came crashing down and I felt as if all hell broke loose. It was raining so hard and you couldn’t see more than a few feet in front of you and the construction work on the Hatton-Nanu Oya road kept us at a touch better than a Snail’s speed. Yucky, yucky, yucky….
As we were passing St. Claire, I saw this huge lady, almost bursting at the seams (there were two sluice gates open from the upper Kotmale dam – damn it) flowing so beautifully and I felt like jumping out of the bus. The rain kept me well inside the bus and made it very difficult to see her any more. The whole area got darker by the minute and when we reached around Devon Falls, there was nothing but thick, inky black mist and torrential rain. I had to make up my mind coz the rain wasn’t about to stop and we decided to go up to Kotagala and get into the train so that we could go to Morgan’s by 07.00pm.
The train journey was so miserable as I was crying inside coz I couldn’t see my beloved St. Claire up close. Gosh, everything looked so dark and without nothing to look forward. Prince kept consoling my saying that we could always come back later but I was so disappointed. This was meant to be some unforgettable journey coz I was celebrating my one-year anniversary of joining Lakdasun and it all seemed far away. On the way from Watagoda, I saw my beloved St. Claire again, the rains had eased somewhat and she was smiling up at me beckoning but I was so helpless. I managed to shoot a short video which I don’t think in super quality but towards the end of its 30 seconds, you can see St. Claire at full flow.
We reached Morgan’s house around 07.00pm and after a quick icy cold wash, tried to catch on some sleep coz we had the train at 10.30pm from GW. I heard Morgan making a call to check if the train is getting late (coz he’s selling coffee at the night mail) and I heard him saying “Cancelled”.
“What’s cancelled” – I shouted from under the covers.
“The railway is on strike so no night mail” – replied Morgan.
I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. This was crazy coz I had a very important training on Mon morning and had to be back in office by 9.30am.
The news confirmed the strike and we could do nothing but have dinner and sleep till morning. But my mind was in overdrive making plans.
“Has St. Claire had a hand in the whole thing so that we could meet up the following day?” – I was hopeful again. I felt like a boy who’s just lost the chance to meet his girlfriend but given another opportunity.
“Hurraahhhhhhhhh, St. Claire, I’m coming to see you tomorrow and you better clear those skies of rain like you managed to get the railway out of action, making me stranded”.
Little did I know that she actually understood what I had in my mind?
Walking up to Talawakele through GW Estate
We got up in the morning around 07.00am (I had to practically kick Prince to wake him up) and the sky was a horrible affair.
“Rain, rain go away – come again another day
Little Sri wants to play”
I was reinventing the poems and tried to remain cheerful about the prospect of what laid ahead. We washed and had breakfast and waited and waited impatiently for the skies to clear. By 10.00am I had had enough and decided to go no matter what happened. Having bid our farewell to Morgan’s wife and his two sons (Kishan – 3yrs and Nirojan – 9yrs) left for Talawakele in heavy rains.
We had to walk a long way coz there was no way of getting a tuk-tuk or any other way to get to the town. It took us nearly an hour to reach the Talawakele town and the rain had eased and we got into a bus and took tickets for St. Claire.
St. Claire falls, Talawakele
We reached the first viewing area and I jumped from the bus closely followed by Morgan and Prince and whoooooaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was horror stricken. Despite so much rain, those wicked people had decided to close the sluice gates of the dam and she was nothing but a small trickle coming down along the rock wall. There was hardly one fifth of what she was yesterday and my heart sank.
But she kept the skies clear and we started our descent towards her downhill. Kumaraya was very reluctant but had to follow us and kept running and checking and running again as if million ghosts are after his blood.
She was looking very lovable and I felt like hugging her. Gosh I wish they had kept the gates open for another few hours. Unfortunately she couldn’t control the minds of those wicked people but the nature which kept rains away from us.
After about 200m downhill, we could go no further and after about half an hour later decided to double back and hit the road for Devon Falls. Once back on the road there was this platform which is nearly finished but apparently not open for public as yet. Couple of pics later, we got into the bus, still removing leeches from my socks and got off at the Devon viewing platform.
Devon Falls, Pathana, Thalawakele
There was this old uncle who’s drawing pics mainly of Devon and St. Claire and sell to tourists. (1000/- for foreigners and 500/- for locals). Unfortunately couldn’t catch his name but he’s been there for the past 8 years making a living out of those two playful girls. Wow… that’s all I could think of coz she was overflowing like a young lady playing without a care in the world. So pretty and cute.
Just opposite was the very famous and popular St. Claire tea shop which sells some exotic tea to tourists, especially foreigners. It as a very intimate place for a cup of tea and a piece of chocolate cake (Plain tea – 40/-; milk tea – 65/-; choco cake – 75/-, etc.)
Having had our brew, we asked those nice ladies (real ones not waterfalls, don’t misunderstand) to show us some very rare kinds of tea. She showed us Golden tea, Silver tea and Lemon tea which all costs at the range of 30,000/- to 40,000/- per 1kg. They even let us smell it and the aroma was reviving. Having said our thanks to them we came back and rain welcomed us with in style.
Morgan said not to stop but to keep walking towards the Kovil where you can get down to take a very closer look of Devon.
Go further towards Hatton about 1.5-2km passing Mlesna Tea Castle which you can’t miss and passing that for another 400m you come across the Kovil on your right hand side just before the road folks into two (downhill towards Nawalapitiya and the left uphill towards Hatton). Enter through the Kovil and there are steps built and you have to walk about 800m to the Kovil and viewing platform.
On the way we came across many monkeys, most notable one was the monkey family sitting on the barrier with their kids cuddling onto them waiting for someone to give some food. It was very warming to see how the parents (human or animal) look after their kids with so much care and love.
They’d built concrete steps right up to the Kovil at the platform. It’s made getting there about 600-800m fairly easy. You should’ve seen Prince’s face, smiling from left year to right year. I was very thankful for anyone who built the Kovil there as it has kept all these money-greedy environmental-destroyers away. May long that tradition continue keeping that Waterfall and the surrounding mountains safe.
The view was breath taking and unlike St. Claire, this girlie was in full flow making a huge roar as if to welcome us into her domain. She looked as if a thick silk Saree flowing effortlessly. You gotta see her with your own eyes coz no matter however much I try to describe the beauty of the situation, it won’t anything be like seeing it with your own eyes and getting the feel of the place.
I managed to get a couple of videos of her which are given below. Video 1, Video 2
I felt all my worries vanish into thin air and silently thanked the railway people for striking and Mother Nature for giving us clear skies just about to see my gorgeous angels.
So the tables were turned and I was in a real happy mood feeling like ten feet tall. So my first ever anniversary really was a memorable one.
After that we left for Hatton and took a bus to Avissawella as Colombo ones were a bit late. Surprisingly, you can see so many cascades from Hatton to Ginigathhena on your right hand side coming down with so much water. I made a mental note to explore that area in the near future. Most of them I guess are just the seasonal ones active only in heavy rainy season.
So folks, that’s the end of my fairy tale. I was virtually spirited away by my beloved St. Claire to a fairy land.
I do hope you enjoyed reading and the pics were a treat for your eyes.
Thank you everyone for your feedback so far and hopefully this one-year old infant will grow into a healthy and stronger fella.
Take care….