Regaining Lost Ground – Aranayaka…

The travelling frenzy started nice and proper when a gang of us (Tony, Hari, Dhana, Thilini, Harsha, Wumi, Prince and Me) got together and went to Bathalegala in Mar, 2013. Since then, for the last 20 months, it’s been travelling from one end to the other with scarcely a few breaks. The Lakdasun Gathering in Feb, 2014 triggered this as we met so many other like-minded travelers. We just had yet another on the 23 Nov at Muthurajawela doing something worthwhile for the nature cleaning up the polythene and plastic filled Hamilton Canal. Hopefully this too will form new friendships that will lead to more travelling and greater causes.

Something very similar happened to me as well in this gathering as I met one of the like-minded waterfall-crazy fellow (Shareez), who’s been in touch with me but never bumped into each other before. Fortunately for us, his annual leave coincided nicely with the gathering and we agreed to look each other up and probably do some waterfall hunting as the rains were falling freely. On a different note, it’s a real pity (as Atha keeps saying) that we ain’t got any waterfall closer to the heart of Colombo as the rainfall Colombo receives would create some beautiful and overflowing waterfalls.

Well, I’ll leave the details of the gathering for the time being as many of you must’ve heard what went on including all the mud-slinging campaigns too. It was really good to get together and share all the expertise, fun moments and much more with the fellow hikers. It was good to see Shareez and we planned to go see the waterfalls in Walapane including the evading Kurundu Oya Falls. I’d failed both of my previous attempts at visiting this 2^nd highest beauty but decided I was in with a good chance this time.

However, little did I know that I’m still not qualified to go see this girl as all our plans were shattered like a fallen egg on concrete? First of all, Tony Mama who was keen to get together with us damaged his finger trying to do I don’t know what and missed out at the eleventh hour. Then Sheham had other plans preventing us leaving our usual time, early in the morning.

Having called each other trying to work out something for the whole day Tue, 25 Nov I was ready to quit. However Shareez kept on and finally we decided to change plans and visit one of the beauties at Aranayake, Asupini Ella and providing we have enough time to go see some others as well. Fittingly, I rather we, had missed visiting Asupini Ella during our Bathalegala Journey and never got the chance to go see her after. So I jumped in at the opportunity and finally we decided to leave late and cover as much as we could within the short time available.

So on the 26 Nov, Sheham picked me around 7.30am and we struggled for nearly 2 hours zig-zagging through the over-crowded Colombo s

ts to reach Peliyagoda where Shareez was waiting for a good one hour or so. I was going crazy but there was nothing either Sheham or I could do. Finally we caught up with Shareez at Peliyagoda around 9.15am and went on towards our target.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Asupini Ella, Horawela.
2. Selawa Cave Temple, Aranayake.

Asupini Ella

Having driven along the ever-so-busy Kandy Road we reached Mawanella and turned towards Aranayake which is another 15km away. The whole sky looked grim and not a sign of sun appeared through that cloud cover. The whole day remained the same constantly dripping water through the holes in those clouds making life hell for us but enjoyable for the damning leeches.

We reached Aranayake and then took the road towards Horawela which goes direct without crossing the bridge on the left. This road goes passing Horawela and you’ll reach Naththakanda, about 4km from Aranayake. Just bear in mind this road is good for about 2-3km and afterwards it’s in very bad condition despite having occasional concrete patches at intervals.  So if you’re in a car or a low clearance vehicle, then you’re dead meat. Ideally stop the vehicle as close as you can get then either walk or take a tuk-tuk. I’ve given some good contacts at notes.

The unexpected occurred as we reached this terrible bit (we had no idea the road was too bad and we were in a Maruti which considerably higher compared to many in that class) when Sheham got a call asking him to return as his wife was not feeling well. We were in a dilemma whether to go back empty-handed or let Sheham go and do this by some other means.

I didn’t wanna turn around having come so close coz not being able to visit especially a waterfall going all the way is something that tastes bitter. It not only tastes bitter and it keeps nagging at me. Reluctantly, we decided to let Sheham go and Shareez and I walked up for another 1-1.5km along the road till we reached a sign board giving details about a Asupini Ella Village Project with half a dozen faces of politicians. The road forks into two here and you have to take the right turn that goes uphill.

Another 500m or so will take you to a stream that flows across the road. Pass this and you’ll come to a sharp right bend with a black wooden electricity pole on the left. On this about 6ft up is nailed a tiny board saying “To Ella” with an arrow. We were grateful for this and followed it. The path hasn’t been used recently, must be due to rain and was infested with leeches. We kept going uphill and Shareez who had had very little physical activities in this kind was ready to give up after a 1km or so.

“Sri, machan shall we go back?” was his words but I wasn’t ready to do that. I just left him there and did a quick recon ahead and found the path to be flat after a short hike. So encouraging him we reached the flat terrain and after another 400-500m came to a concrete-slab paved path. The falls was visible through the trees and we hurried and saw the viewing platform below. The concrete path runs for another 200m or so towards the top of the falls (you can’t get down to the top especially in rains) and we followed it.

Finally getting there and seeing the top of her was something that’ll remain in my mind forever. She was so beautiful, not overflowing even after all that rain, and looked very serene. The leeches nonetheless had different ideas as they kept coming wave after wave at us while we were enchanted by this beauty. We got back to where the viewing platform was and got down to it. This is a highly commendable job by whoever did this as it makes the life so much easier for the tourists to this remote falls.

Unfortunately, it’s now in a somewhat dilapidated state maybe due to the lack of maintenance and adverse weather. I felt some warm liquid running along both my feet and removing the shoes found nearly two dozen leeches hanging onto me merrily sucking what little blood I have. Removing them left some long trails of blood but I couldn’t bother with it much as the sheer beauty of Asupini Ella took hold of me.

She was similar to a Bo Leaf, especially the upper bit. Unfortunately from where we stood, there’s no chance to take a picture of the full package. We saw a damn built at the base of the falls diverting water to the light house we saw in our last journey. The water taking huge tunnel could also be seen while we were coming down the road towards Aranayake and probably we could reach the base along that tunnel providing the path is ok.

Having spent about half hour with this beauty and unplugged all the leeches we were ready to get back and face the second attack.

Initially we took the wrong turn but rewarded with this view

Young plants

Raksawa Mountain Range with Asupini Ella in the middle

The view was breath-taking despite gloomy skies

Closer view

There’s the beauty, very much like a Bo Leaf

Closer view

Further more to go, this is just before Sheham had to turn around

Take the right uphill road

The turn off to the footpath is just at the end

Here’s Shareez with the sign

Leech territory

Soaked mountains

Endless view

The path is somewhat better around here

Closer

Another sign

Where Shareez had had enough

Finally, the viewing platform is just below

Zoomed in

We went up the path looking for the top and found this on the way

The top

Closer

Plunging down

Back to the hut, Shareez going down

There she is

Lush greenery

Sweet white foam

View is mostly obscured by those trees

Closer

The top

Drops

Surrounding mountains

Wow

My dream shots…

Selawa Cave Temple

The time had gone past 3pm and we knew there was no hope to visit any other falls. While walking back we met a tuk-tuk (Ananda’s) and he agreed to take us back to Horawela. From there we got into Indika’s tuk-tuk and headed towards Selawa Cave Temple which was built by King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe about 400 years ago.

This is located about 6km from Horawela and you need to cross the big bridge and take the right turn towards Horawela-Rahala Road. This is as soon as you cross the bridge at Horawela, to your right with a big sign board. As this road was being repaired, we took the Horawela-Hemmathagama (the left turn after the bridge) and took a cross road to join back with this road.

We reached the temple while the rain kept on. After a set of cement stairs we reached the main image house which was locked. There were some elderly people at the Sanghawasa watching us and we went to speak to them. After a short deliberation among themselves, they finally decided no harm will come to them by opening and showing us this majestic creation. Shareez looking like a foreigner also helped make up their mind. They were under that impression so deep when we spoke in Sinhala they had asked Indika how on earth this foreigner is speaking Sinhala for which Indika had replied after a few tours they might know the language. It had apparently satisfied their curiosity.

Until we were back on the road, even Indika didn’t know that Shareez was Sri Lankan, born and bred. According the elders, the image house had been broken into by the treasure hunters who don’t believe the temples can look after these precious artefacts. It’s a pity to see almost all the temples in Sri Lanka have suffered the same fate despite authorities boasting about improved security measures. Archaeology department is helpless and probably tooth-less too.

Whenever, we go to an ancient temple like this, they all give the same disgusting look suspecting each and every one to be treasure hunters for which we really can’t blame them. Thankfully these elders were very supportive and gave us a good narration of the value of the place. It’s even sadder to see they had ruined the precious wall paintings doing the wiring for electricity.

There was a big stone inscription elaborating the story behind this temple and we spent good hour or so admiring this marvel and while we were leaving the chief monk who’d been to Kandy was coming up the steps. The elders pleaded not to tell the monk that they had shown us the interior fearing he would scold them and we duly obliged. I hope you too will keep that as a secret.

Here’s the notice board I told you about

The path to the temple

Towering rocks

The image house

Here’s the front

The whole thing is underneath this huge rocky boulder

The stone scripture

Closer view from the left

And the right

At the door

Some more, wonder if it was wise to paint them over. See the wiring too

The corridor

Entrance to the main image chamber

The paintings on the rock

The door with paintings and ancient lock

Solid locks despite the age

Built in 2222, Buddhist Calendar (Some 380 years ago)

Renovation in 2471, Buddhist Calendar (Some 131 years ago)

Paintings on the rocky ceiling

More

The treasure hunters had broken the back of this Buddha Statue’s head

This pillow apparently had a nice gem carved into it but was stolen. This is a renovated one by the Archaeology Dept.

Just look at these paintings

Paintings-covered wall

Hundreds of them

Many more

Towards the back of the statue, these are fading away

Nearly gone

The other chamber

One of many Buddha Statues

Fading away

Similar one to the statue at the main chamber

Another

In this room, the paintings are not so preserved like the main one

Not in good condition

Some wall paintings too

This was on the roof

Time to go

Afterwards, we got Indika to drop us off at Mawanella around 5.30pm and on his recommendation we went to Seetha Restaurant which turned out to be a grand one. As usual, we had had nothing to eat since the breakfast which was so light (two buns) I was surprised we kept going with no problem. After a hearty meal, we took Gampola-Colombo bus and reached Kadawatha where Shareez bid farewell to me around 8.00pm.

This turned out to be a yet another super-duper journey despite plagued with many hazards. It was good to see Shareez and actually being able to do a journey with him.

Well folks, this is where I say good-bye to you all. Hope you enjoyed this report and introduction of a new mate to my old gang (Shareez is not that old, mind you).

Well, keep travelling but be safe.

Cheers,

Auf Wiedersehen!

Sri…