Never Ending Passion Goes on Its Merry Way – Tour de Waterfalls 10…

Hiya folks and as promised here I am with the 10th episode of my waterfall tour. I hope you enjoyed the Tour 9 and this will complement the growing collection nicely. With this the total number of tours will hit the double digit mark. Well, let’s get down to business right away.

Having come across one of Niroshana’s report, I wanted to go see the waterfalls in Matara district.  What better person to keep company than Hasi, who was born and bred in Matara and knows the place like the back of his hand. When I put my suggestion to him, he readily agreed and we set off in the dawn of 28th Sep.

Tour Highlights:

1. Hakgedi Ella, Kananke.
2. Kandedola Ella, Pitabeddara.
3. Kannadimulla Ella, Kannadimulla.
4. Ethamala Ella, Kosnilgoda.
5. Hathmale Ella, Pallegama.
6. Kotapola aka Thiruwana Ella, Kosmodara.
7. Ketawala Ella, Ketawala.

Hakgedi Ella

We took the E01 from Kottawa and were doing 100kmph while the sun as usual started his morning painting rituals. Just like waterfalls, sunrise and sunset are two other things that I never seem to get tired of, no matter how many times I witness it. It’s a whole lot different each and every time, trust me on that. The white cotton wool like clouds reflected the morning rays while sun appeared over rubber plantations and tiny hills to our left. Hasi had been busy in the weekend watching waterfalls as he’d been to 11 of them in and around Bulathkohupitiya, the day before. I wish I could have joined him for that too even though I have been to them before.

We took the Imaduwa entrance and planned our journey. The waterfalls were located so far apart, unlike many other places e.g. Bulathkohupitiya, and it took us a long time to visit them. Passing Polwatta River and entering Kananke, you should be able to go see the first of the attractions of the day, Hakgedi Ella. Hasi had his tab with him and it helped us throughout the day finding the locations.

We decided to go to the top of Matara district along Imaduwa-Akuressa-Pitabeddara-Deniyaya road and then come down the Deniyaya-Urubokka-Pasgoda-Mulatiyana-Kamburupitiya almost making a full circle around Matara district. To reach the Hakgedi Ella, go along Imaduwa-Akuressa road and just passing the Kudake bus stop turn left to Polhena-Gallala road. There had been a signpost but been removed during the road construction and nobody had thought it’s important to put it back.

Travel along this road and from the first Y junction take the right that runs through a paddy field. The road is in excellent condition. Along this road you’ll come to a by road to your right that is concrete and goes uphill called Polhena-Idurupathwala road. There is a signage put up by typical politicians’ way. Stop right there coz you have to turn back. You might be cursing me now for taking you passing the falls, right? Unfortunately this is the best landmark I could find and don’t worry you haven’t gone a long way passing the falls. Turn around and walk back about 50m (not much, huh?) keeping your eyes open. There is a tiny footpath to your left goes across the marshland but not too long. Take this and it will run straight to Hakgedi Ella.

This is said to have a treasure hidden, a similar story like Abarana Ella in Ambalantota-Nonagama road. Again she is about 3-4ft in height but the water level was rich due to the rains. We spent about 15 mins with her while the bleary-eyed villagers came awake to find strangers have invaded their lands. We then turned around and headed up the road towards Akuressa and then Pitabeddara in search of Kandedola Ella.

The bridge across Polwatta River at Kananke

Very old one

Morning rays on Polwatta River

Hasi playing the traffic police, here’s where you have to turn

Got the Sudu Pulli disease

Water flow of Hakgedi Ella

There she is, nothing much you might feel

Closer with sunlight

Closest we could get

Trying every setting

Kandedola Ella

We were very hungry but couldn’t find any shop to eat anything till Pitabeddara town. There was a nice shop and was had a hearty meal of rice and curry. Then we took the Deniyaya road till we reached Athu Ela Bridge. Apparently we had gone past Kandedola Bridge and had to turn around close to Kosnilgoda where the turn off to Ethamala Ella is. Unfortunately, like the Hakgedi Ella, the signpost had been removed in the road construction and forgotten ever since. I’m gonna tell you an alternative route to Ethamala Ella now. Passing Athu Ela Bridge, there is a downhill path to your right with a sign saying “Nil-Wella Estate”. Take this and you will have to travel probably 2-3km but the road is in terrible condition as per what we heard. I’ll tell you what we did later.

We turned around to first see the Kandedola Ella and reached a newly built bridge passing Athu Ela Bridge which is long and huge. If you are coming from Pitabeddara, Kandedola Bridge is located before the Athu Ela Bridge. There’s the Kandedola tea factory to your right as soon as you go past the bridge. Stop here and there’s a footpath leading to the stream to the left of the bridge at the beginning of the bridge (when you’re coming from Pitabeddara). Take this and carefully climb up the stream about 100m. It’ll be so tough when the water levels are high and raining but we had none of them.

Still, it was very tough to go up but after what felt like an eternity we reached the base of Kandedola Ella. She had very little water despite the rains recently; remember what I told you about diminishing water retention capabilities. It has affected this too. She is around 20ft in height and has two parts with a twist in the middle reminding me of Meddakanda aka Dodam Gallena Ella. After 10-15 mins we made the return journey through those huge rock boulders and got back on the road.

Hiding beauty

Kandedola Bridge

Took to the stream to go uphill

Not so easy, especially if the rains are there

Finally reached the base pool

Not much water but she looks super

Sliding along the rocky wall

The sun appeared out of nowhere

The top

Getting down was even trickier

Kannadimulla Ella

While we went towards Pitabeddara passing the Kandedola Bridge to turn the vehicle and ask the directions for Kandedola Ella, we were told that there is another falls borne in the Nilwala river below. She was falling to our right when going towards Deniyaya in parallel way but way below the road level, around 150-200ft below. We went back to the shop we got directions about 100m towards Pitabeddara from the Kandedola Bridge. We could barely see her in the distance and had plenty of water so decided it’d be worth taking a look.

According to the shop owner, one can get down to the river through the Kandedola tea factory (always supposing they’ll let you) and cross the river to the other end and walk up to get a better view. However risen water levels prevented us from doing that (we didn’t wanna take an undue risk) and chose the alternative. We drove back to Pitabeddara town and turned to the left which is the Pitabeddara-Pasgoda main road. After about 1km you will reach a Y junction with a school in front and turn to the left once again. You will reach Dankoluwa about another 1-2km and at the junction with a temple to your right the main Pasgoda road will take a sharp right hand turn.

You have to travel straight along Siyambalagoda road till you reach the Kannadimulla School. It’s about 2km from the Dankoluwa junction. You will see the school to your left with a right hand bend of the road at the end of the school premises. Stop here and there’s a gravel path to your left bordering the school and that’s what you gotta take. We checked the directions from the house near here and the uncle and aunty who were working in the tea patch were very polite and talked to us in a very friendly manner. They offered to look after the car while we’re gone and said that we could go see Ethamala Ella from here instead from Kosnilgoda along Deniyaya road. He said the road is not so good for a car and offered to find a tuk-tuk for us as well. Unbelievable hospitality, this is the typical Sri Lankan way which the foreigners find so unique. They go out of their way to help others, especially outsiders but most of the outsiders take them for granted and do so much damage to their villages making all the travelers being looked down by the village folks. So please seek their support whenever you can but we have to be very polite and respect them.

We went down the gravel road till it ended at a house but there was a path just before the last house to our right through a tea patch bordered by coconut trees. Take this and it will take you right down to the Nilwala river and about another 50-60m is the falls. She had no name so upon Hasi’s suggestion we named her after the village as we always do “Kannadimulla Ella”. She was wide but not so high and had two short parts totaling about 10-12ft in height. We spent some time with her and got back to where we left the car. As soon as we got back, that uncle offered to cut some king coconuts for us and our tongues were practically hanging out by then and gladly accepted it. It was like a magic drink (Remember the Magic Arishta in Asterisks?) and we drank it in one long pull.

He then told us that we could from this side get very close to the falls and didn’t need a tuk-tuk. He had one and could easily have made some easy money off us but he wasn’t ready to fall into such a lower level. I was worried if they would ask the same question that lady asked Hariya (read Tour 9 for details) but they didn’t. However the sad news is the same people who were trying to build a mini hydro power plant at Ethamala Ella is going to build one here blocking the river above Kannadimulla Ella. Those buggers are facing a court case for the Ethamala Ella project and I hope the court won’t let them destroy that gorgeous falls. Having thanked them profusely, we got underway to go see Ethamala Ella.

Here’s the turn off, take the right hand side road

The path is shaded and full of grass

Here we are

Borne out of Nilwala River

Close up

Looks good

Don’t know what he was trying to take

The downhill journey of Nilwala

Parting shot

The tea patch

Not ripe yet

Gorgeous colors

Ethamala Ella

We continued along the road further up from Kannadimulla. About 1-2km from here there’s a turn off to the left with a bridge across Nilwala river. Turn to this; you will really have to keep your eyes open to find this as it’s easy to miss. As soon as you cross the bridge the road will fork into two. The left hand side road is the one that would lead to Deniyaya road close to Kosnilgoda. You have to turn right and go along this for about 1-2km more. The river will be to your right but this road is not in good condition, especially for a car. We saw the huge steel pipes that had brought to divert the water to the power plant, the diameter was about 4ft and if used, they will kill the falls. Later in the day we saw the fate of Kotapola Ella due to the use of these huge pipes. Towards the end of the road while the river takes a sharp bend to the left you will come to a concrete paved part of the road with a sharp bend to the left that goes uphill.

You gotta leave the road and go straight along the footpath parallel to the river. In about 100m, you will be able to see the mighty Ethamala Ella. She was in full flow and looked simply amazing. It was a real pity those heartless buggers trying to kill such a beauty. We took our sweet little time with her and then very reluctantly left her hoping she won’t face a tragic end.

The killing machines of the waterfalls

On the way, took a peep at the river

Tiny falls

Plenty of water here

Here we are

And there she is

Up close

The top of her

The base pool looks dangerous

Downstream

The full package

Cheerio…

Hathmale Ella

Leaving Atha Mala Ella behind we reached the Pitabeddara and passing Kandedola, Athu Ela, Kosnilgoda, Morawaka and Kotapola arrived at Deniyaya and turned left in front of the police station towards Pallegama. At Pallegama, if you have time, you could turn right onto Mederipitiya and go on to Pitadeniya but I’ve been there and time was soon running out. We went straight along Beliaththakumbura road till we reached the Hathmale Ella turn off to our right. The road is also called Hathmale Ella road and there is a small signage there. It’s about 2-2.5km drive on this road to the Hathmale Ella. You can check my previous report on Pitadeniya & Hathmale Ella here.

The road is done with those bricks that used to do the pavements in Colombo but not all the way. We reached the falls after struggling along the uneven road and decided to walk the last 500m or so. Gin Ganga was rising steadily and we reached the entrance to the falls that is done with steps. Hearing the familiar M6 noise, we practically ran down the steps and whoa, she was majestic and I couldn’t take my eyes off her. Already there was a group of people having a bath in the lower pool but it was no problem for us.

She had more water than the last time but not much. The whole of Gin Ganga falls making this gorgeous girlie with 7 parts thus the name Sathmale aka Hathmale Ella. We spent a long time, especially as this was Hasi’s first time to this grand place and after a while started climbing up. At the top, I saw a path that runs through to the top of her and decided to go for a quick look. It was really mesmerizing to see how the water makes never ending tiny cascades and whirlpools before falling down. After a few snaps, I got back up and followed Hasi to the car.

The road towards Hathmale parallel to Gin Ganga

Muddy due to rains

Here’s the star

The top of her

And one of the 7 parts

One of the base pools

Absolutely lost for words

One long lower part

Going back but wanna see her from the top

Just got down to the top

Here’s the path that make the waterfall

The top is like a cascading pool

Just before creating one of the most beautiful falls in SL

Finally making the big one at the end

Going back

Kotapola aka Thiruwana Ella

We got back to Hathmale Ella turn off and stopped for a snack. Hasi hadn’t forgotten his gastric pill which is a must for journeys with me. We reached Kotapola and in front of the school turn left onto the Urubokka road. About 3km from here you will reach the newly built Kosmodara Bridge. About 100-200m before it to your left is a carpeted but narrow road that goes uphill. Take this and like many by roads you will notice the carpet layer was only for the show and only goes for a short distance.

You will reach a Y junction with a concrete paved road to the right goes downhill. Take that but be warned as the concrete will disappear after 100m and the road will be terrible. When we asked the road from a house here, one boy volunteered to show us the path. We left the car and took to the road and another boy had joined the group. We walked down and reached an abandoned community hall to our left. We walked past it and the road suddenly took a sharp right bend and it was the end. There was the hydro power plant here which I felt like bombing.

Walk straight and after the road ends take a sharp right that goes through tea bushes. It’s more like a drain than a path but can easily walk one at a time. A short walk will take you to the pipeline that runs to the power plant from the top of the falls, the same 4ft-diameter one. From here we could see the nearly dried out Kotapola Ella, not because lack of water but due to this stupid power plant. This is a huge waterfall, with a height over 100ft and nearly 40-50ft in with. She was more like a little sister of Rathna Ella. But there was nothing to see save for a tiny streaks of water along the rocky surface. Another sad ending to what once had been a grand lady.

I was sad and fuming with anger but what to do. We left and reached the car. Giving those two boys some money we headed towards Urubokka searching for Ketawala, Watawala Namal Ella and the time had just gone 4.30pm.

The turn off, take the downhill

At the end of the road, fallow the concrete path and then turn right at the tree

The killing machine of the Kotapola Falls

The gigantic water tunnel

Doesn’t look good

Oh dear!

Just look at the destruction

She would’ve been one of the best had the water wasn’t diverted

Abysmal looking base

Nearly 4ft diameter

Abandoned

Ketawala Ella

Passing Kirilapana and Beralapanathara we arrived at Kekundeniya just before Urubokka. Take the left road at Kekundeniya towards Ketawala. It’s carpeted up to 1-1.5km but beyond that is in terrible condition. We stopped there and inquired about the Namal Ella from the shop but they simply shook their heads. There was a tuk-tuk and some people in it but they didn’t know about her either.

The Watawala Namal Ella is near the Ketawala School which was another good 1-2km from there. We had no time to go explore and the light began fading away pretty fast and heavy clouds brought a drizzle making matters worse. Then someone claimed there is a fall close by and we decided to go see her in the tuk-tuk. This is the left gravel road just before the shop and it was so terrible we kept going up and down inside the tuk-tuk.

After a rollercoaster ride we reached a house belonging to Siripala mama and our tuk-tuk driver Gunasena mama went to ask him where this fall was located. It was raining and thankfully we had our umbrella. Siripala mama came and one look at us should have been enough to realize that we were crazy in our head but he led the way without beating about the bush.

The path was so wet and slippery, the leeches were in numbers and rain was falling heavily but all those were the least of our problems. We were on a mission. Finally we reached a point where we got a view of the top of this fall. She wasn’t huge, about 15ft in height but surprisingly water levels were fairly low. However we had to get down to the stream and climb a little up to get a clear view but getting down was tricky, especially for Hasi.

Siripala mama followed by Gunasena mama got to the stream slipping down the slope. Asking Hasi to wait on top, I followed them and managed to get to the water without trouble. Then literally crawled along the rocks to the base of the falls and took some pictures while Gunasena mama provided cover for the camera with his sarong. After that we returned to Siripala mama’s house. While we were removing dozens of leeches off our legs Siripala mama apologized for not offering any tea. I was moved by their genuine hospitality and having thanked profusely left for the car.

But not before he told us about the Namal Ella and another falls in Pattigala passing Kekundeniya along Boraluketihena road. However it was close to 6pm and we said we’d be back again to see them and others we missed. We reached the car and bid farewell to Gunasena mama.

Not much water despite rains

Falls with a twist in the middle

The top

And the bottom

Side view

All in all it was a great day but we had to spend quite a long time trying to find some of the falls which was very unfortunate. There are about 5-6 more waterfalls in Matara & Hambanthota districts that we’ll have to visit.

This is the 10th of my unique Tour de Waterfalls and hopefully will be able to do a few more in the foreseeable future.

Well, thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed this episode like the rest of them. Keep exploring and help protect the environment.

Take care!

Ciao,

Sri…